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how can you tell the axle code, i always wondered what mine are packed with, but both my tags are rotted, to the point that you really cant read them, its a f-150 4x4 351 auto, but are there many combos for this? all i know is its a ford 8.8 open diff. any one have a way for me to find out?
What about the certification label on the driver side door jamb? Is it still there after 17 years? If so, look where it says AX or AXLE. It's most likely a 3.55 Code 19 for open diff or H9 for limited slip. There was a 2.73 (12), 3.08 (18 or H8), 3.31 (17 or H7), 3.55 (19 or H9) and 4.10 (H5) available. No 3.73 for the f150's for some reason. If the code has 2 numbers, it's an open diff. If the code has a letter followed by a number, it's a limited slip.
hmm im gonna go check that NOW, i wonder if i dont have a limited slip, that would be cool, it seems to like to do alot posi, but i dont think thats because of a limited slip.
That's ok, by now the clutches in your diff would be completely gone anyway. They don't last but 100,000 miles or about 5 years, if that. Time to get a detroit locker in that thing, huh?
yeah i want to, but theres other things on my list first, and i think i would step it up to a 9 inch, before i wasted money on a locker, but i may see a lift kit and maby a limited slip, but theres a few things higher on my prioritys right now, but its good to know whats in it for now, even if i had a limited slip, it would have only worn out 3 thousand miles ago
Why a 9"? It's not that much better than an 8.8". About a nice Dana 60 instead? A nice healthy 9.75" ring gear? You can get one off a E250 van. Or even a Sterling 10.25 full-floater like an F250HD? And if you put in a D60 solid front axle from an F350, you wouldn't have to buy custom hubs with a 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern for the rear axle. You'd just have to buy 5 new 8-bolt wheels. (That you want anyways because some aluminum wheelage would dress that truck up.)
I guess you'd have to take that stuff off the F350 at the same time as the D60. It probably wouldn't matter much if you bought a lift kit. The drop-pitman arm, springs, shackles and pivots come with the kit anyway. Maybe the only thing you'd need are the shock towers, track bar and radius arms. And the steering linkage will be conveniently already attached to the axle. There's got to be someone on this board who's done it.
Probably a good idea. Like you said, there's nothing wrong with it and it's likely there never will. I had the same dilema last year. I figured out it was cheaper to buy a new 2003 F250 rather than to pay for a new custom made Dana 60 full floater from Dynatrac for my 2002 F150.
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