I keep killing starters. One ate my flexplate (wich was new) and the second one broke the starter gear mechanisim. What do the guys with HiPo engines use.
Sean, Scouter and Greg. Anyone else?

 

I'm running a Jeg's pro-starter. It's a smaller high torque starter that is supposed to withstand the heat. It cost about $180.

I'm concerned that you are going through starters and flex-plates. You may have some alignment issue. I have not killed a starter or flex-plate yet. I only replaced the stock starter to reduce the chance of future failures.

 

That was the first thing I checked. everything is mating properly. The starter engages smoothly at first then after awile it goes all at once. No funny noises until it is broke.
The first flexplate was defective, at least that is what i think. It was replaced at no cost to me. Or the starter was not engaging all the way. It was the front of the teeth that were broke off. The second starter couldn't take the amount of timing it takes to make this thing idle well.
This is all speculation of course. Who really knows?
The Blind Guy

 

A lot of initial timing is hard on a starter.

One way around it is to have a momentary kill switch on the ignition. Hold down the kill switch while you're cranking until the starter is spinning the engine over real good, then let off on the switch.

 

Try putting black spray paint on the starter teeth, let it dry, put it back in, and crank it. Take it back out, and see what's worn off. That should tell you what kind of alignment you have. I'm assuming you have a non-stock flexplate.

I have a stock starter/flywheel (not flexplate) in an 11:1 390, double valve springs, and a stock starter spins it like it's nothing, with a good battery. I have two batteries, one a marine deep-cycle that runs the radio and lights, the other for starting and ignition. I have two solenoids, from both batteries, to the starter. Two toggle switches on the dash take the output from the ignition key and feed the two solenoids. Need a boost? Turn on the other solenoid, and what a kick. If the main battery is totally dead, I turn it's solenoid off and rely on the other one to kick it over.

Another thing about timing that might make your life easier. I have about 10-11 inches of vacuum with about 22 degrees advance at 900RPM. But to start it, I have to back off to less than 15. I took an adjustable vacuum advance, hooked it to manifold vacuum (not ported from the carb), and turned the initial way down to like 6. Idling at 900RPM, I have 22 degrees at idle, 11 inches of vacuum. I was able to tune the advance so that it doesn't bog, and doesn't ping. I also set my stock '76 Duraspark dizzy to the least mechanical advance (13 cam degrees it says on the stop I think), took out the strong spring (which doesn't come on until a higher RPM - it's very loose on the posts), and put in another weak spring from a 289 dizzy. It starts great, idles great (292/292, 230/230@.050), no longer pings, and has lots of low-end, mid and high-end. Took a while to get it right though. YMMV - literally

Sorry for the long post. Must take a long time for the computer to read it to you, eh?

 

I'm using the Tilton on mine. Expensive, but so far it works as advertised.

-Scouder

 

Thanks for all the great feedback. I returned the rebuilt O.E starter and will be getting a ProStart from Jeg's. I can't afford the Tilten. Although they have almost the same description. I inspected the flexplate , no noticeable wear. I think the starters from Kragen's are just junk.
The Blind Guy
BTW My screen reader reads faster than most people can.

 

I have a stock flexplate and starter Randy. Once I got a good starter I have had no problems for over a year.

 

I'd still check the depth with the spray paint just to be absolutely sure...

 

That is a pretty cool trick man! That should work perfect for finding alignment problems.

 

Thanks I will do that just to make sure.
The teeth on the starter were totaly gone. nothing was left. So I think it was engaging all the way. It was just junk.
Hey Sean what starter are you useing; Autolite, Napa or what?
The Blind Guy

 

I've never used it, I was thinking about Randy's problem, and that came to mind. I don't remember if someone told it to me, or I just thought it up on the fly, but most likely I heard it from someone else.

I thought about high-spot-blue (or grease), but that might make a mess, especially with a clutch

Randy, did you check what the tooth pitch was on the aftermarket flexplate? Same as standard FE?

art k.

 

The flexplate is a stock replacement unit from Pioneer. Nothing special.
I am running a C6 auto trans.