I just bought an 85 bronco II with a 2.8L V6, and a 5spd trans. It has 138k and is a little sluggish, it has had a valve job in the past year, I have around 500 to spend on giving it more power. What would the be the best thing to do? Also I live in an appt building and dont have a place to really work on it for a long time, not to mention a general lack of mechanical intuition and tools. I do however have the Haynes repair manual.

 

Welcome to FTE Shawn. If your B2 seems a bit sluggish, you may try just a general tune-up, and possibly having the carb. checked by a diag. machine. There were a couple of sensors on the carb that went out often... and they aren't cheap. It's been a couple of years since I had my carb rebuilt, but I think it ran my about $180 because of the sensors that were bad on it. Other than that, get a good set of plugs and wires, maybe a high flow air filter... K&N or other if it's available. The 2.8 isn't a real powerhouse to start with and there's not a lot of performance parts out there that I know of. It's pretty heat sensitive too so watch those engine temps, otherwise you'll be looking for a set of heads for it. I would suggest making sure you cooling system is in top condition, maybe replace the thermostat and flush out the engine real well... I've lost 3 - 2.8's to overheating so you can't be too carefull.

 

ok, but whiloe we're on the subject of overheating, is it common for the temp gauge to go out on them? I noticed today coming back from tucson (where I bought it) to Phoenix (where I live) that the temp gaug3e didn't move the slightest bit, even with the (brand new) A/C on. and it was a warm day (mid 90's)... so Im not confident that it is working completely.

I also have a question or 2 about emmissions, my b2 doesnt have a cadaletic converter, and I assume if it doesnt have a cadaletic converter it doesnt have the rest of the emmissions stuff, how much would I be looking at to replace all this, and what all is there. I could register it in another county that doesnt have emmissions but it would be a big pain. I need to either replace the emmissions stuff soon (within the next week) or register it elsewhere, so I can actualy get insurance and drive it (legaly).

thanks for the help

-shawn

 

I'm in the same situation with my full size here in Dallas. I've never lived anywhere that checked emissions and so most of my stuff "fell off" a long time ago. I'm just going to tag mine in OK where I'm from originally, it would be heck to get back to where it would pass. That may be part of the problem on yours though, may have something to do with the way it is running. As far as the temp gauge, get that checked out ASAP. Sometimes, if your thermostat siezes up in the closed position, it won't show hot on your gauge becuase there is no water getting to the sending unit and therefore it can't detect that the engine is running hot. Hopefully it's just the gauge or sending unit though.

 

heh, well stupid me, I was looking at the oil pressure gauge the whole way back. so I have no idea how hot it ran coming home the other day, but it is ran just fine sitting in one spot with the a/c running for 10 or 15 minutes.

and now to test the electricat, should I expect some codes to come up since theres some emissions stuff missing?

 

oh by the way, anyone know how well this 'engine restore' oil addative works? I figured I'd give it a try, although Im not a big fan of addatives. Also, I am giving serious thought to this "tornadofuelsaver" thing, figured it couldn't hurt anything anyone used this before?

 

Duraspark II Conversion
by Budro
Will not work with the A4LD automatic transmission due to the use of the EGR valve.
Start out by getting the following parts (new or used):
1. Distributor for a 1979 Ford Pinto with single vacuum advance. Part # 2691
2. Cap and Rotor for that distributor as well as the plastic collar for the distributor cap.
3. Duraspark II ignition box the blue grommet one with two (2) connectors not 3.
4. The wiring harness that goes from the Duraspark box to the distributor. ( Got mine at a salvage yard for $5.00 any 4, 6, 8, cylinder vehicle with the Duraspark ignition will work should have 4 wires in it. While you are there go ahead and get the 2 wire plug as well makes for a cleaner install. Ford has the ends to make a new ones but each end is $16.00)
5. I used a Holley 350 for the carb to replace the old 2150
6. Vacuum line and caps(plugs)
Okay remove the entire wiring harness from the engine except for the Electric Choke, Engine Temp and Oil Pressure sending units wiring. Leave the wiring to the alternator as well. If you have air conditioning you will have a couple wires going to that as well. . This should remove about 95% of the wiring out of the way. Just lay it over the passenger fender for now. You may have to cut some of the wires for example the Red with Light Green wire that supplies power to the TFI module as well as the ECM. There is usually a big splice where it is routed to the necessary locations. The same way with the vacuum lines remove all lines to the EGR and carb. If you have not already removed the smog pump now would be the perfect time to do so. Just plug the lines that go back to the exhaust manifolds and cat converter. Remove the EGR valve and make a metal block off plate out of thin sheet metal to block of the EGR port on the carb spacer. Reinstall the EGR valve just to plug the hole. Install a vacuum cap on top of the EGR valve’s vacuum port.
Remove the plug wires and cap from the distributor. Bump the starter to get cylinder #1 at top dead center. Unplug the TFI connector from the distributor. Remove the distributor by removing the 13mm hold down bolt on the back of the intake manifold. Gently pull out the distributor.
Assemble the new distributor by screwing on the rotor and install the distributor cap collar. Make sure to grease the O-ring on the new distributor before sliding it in. Slide in the distributor making sure to keep the rotor pointed at the #1 piston. If it will not slide all the way down try turning the crankshaft with a ratchet just a bit and it should engage with the cam gear then. Reinstall the distributor hold down bracket and bolt but don’t tighten yet.
Find a suitable place to mount the duraspark box on the drivers side fender. Connect the wiring harness you got from the donor vehicle to the distributor and route it over to the duraspark box and connect it up. The distributor end has 4 pins the duraspark end has 3 as the green wire goes to the – side of the coil.
Now the fun part wiring it up. Find a Red with Light Green wire should be in one of the harnesses on the drivers fender apron. This should be hot with the key on and also with the key in the start position. Tap this line and run a to the positive side of the coil if there already isn’t one. Also tap this line and run it to the Red wire on the 2 pin plug on the other harness you got from the donor vehicle. Then plug it into the duraspark box. The White wire on the 2 pin plug goes to retard the timing while starting the engine. You can decide if you want to use this or not. I have it taped off.
Hook up a vacuum line from the distributor to the carb above the carb plates to get ported vacuum not at the back of the carb or on the intake manifold vacuum tree. Plug the vacuum port on the front of the intake under the carb if you are not using the 2150.
Install the distributor cap and connect the plug wires. Now fire it up and set the timing. Then tighten the distributor hold down bolt and you are don

 

what exactly does this mod do?

 

This is referred to as the dura spark conversion. It allows you to tune your motor as [U]you want too. It allows you to later upgrade to a offy intake and a holley 4 barrel(small and after headers). It allows you to get rid of approximately 152 feet of extra wires that are currently waitng to rot in half inside the harness so you can't see them.It is a cheap effective mod that will leave you a little change in your pocket.

 

hmmm, Well, since I made this post I decided to swap a 302 into the bronc. It will be a few months before I actualy do the swap, would I be able to use any of the new wiring with the 302?

 

Doubt it. If you start to do a motor change be sure to get the whole vehicle. there are going to be many things you will need. Let me know how it goes, good luck!