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I didn't get to read all of those posts, but I wanted to make sure we mention that you can't forget to prop up your shocks so they don't wear out. If your brakes squeal use some good assembly lube to grease them up. ***WARNING*** Greasing Brakes could lead to inability to stop ***WARNING*** (Just in case someone out there is dumb enough... ...I gotta sleep at night) By the way the best engine additive I have ever used is this stuff called Updoc.
I didn't get to read all of those posts, but I wanted to make sure we mention that you can't forget to prop up your shocks so they don't wear out. If your brakes squeal use some good assembly lube to grease them up. ***WARNING*** Greasing Brakes could lead to inability to stop ***WARNING*** (Just in case someone out there is dumb enough... ...I gotta sleep at night) By the way the best engine additive I have ever used is this stuff called Updoc.
All you guys, saying, I can't believe you forgot this, and ALL of you forgot the MOST important piece of all. The turbo incabulator, located deep inside the power transfer assembly, MUST be inspected and replaced every now and then. There are several methods of checking it, all should be used to be sure, but since the unit is destroyed by the inspection, all they do is pad the bill. If anybody here went to Universal Tech in Phoenix, you should have known that. If you forgot, I will have LaHood sit on you.
I have installed a TR double E on my truck. Keeps it alot cooler in the summer and allows the AC to run better. It's not a neccesity but it is a nice addition.
And don't forget about taking good care of your transmission. Everyone knows it's expensive to replace... even more expensive if you have two or three in your car!
OOOO OOOO OOOO, and I almost forgot... If you add a chip you have to be sure to change the IP to match the IO and ISA identifiers, otherwise you'll have all kinds of collision problems and none of the PCI process will match up with the ATA366 or ZIF377 standards.
Last edited by ubermich; May 14, 2004 at 07:41 AM.
I always thought the blinkers ran on smoke! Because, once I accidentally touched the two wires together and let the smoke out, and they don't work anymore.
When doing the blinker fluid flush somtimes the wires dont reach the
blinkers anymore so you will need to buy one tool 3 payments of 29.95 plus S&H
( yellow handle wire stretcher )
ya can use a metal stretcher inseatd of a wire stecher. just be careful not to over do it for evryinch of wire ya can only really stretch it about 6foot or so.
damn you guys are really stirring up quite a repair bill, its already going to cost me 5.58 grand to fix al that stuff!! i was looking at the middle axle and a comboobulator shaft was missing, and i was woried cuz i looked somemore and found that the left axle joint was missing what can i do about taht!!!??!!?
quack
Well, thanks a lot, guys! I've paid my dealer to replace every single thing you've listed here, and my new 2004 F-150 STILL vibrates! Okay, what's next?
What garage is complete without a hammerfur? That should cut down on just about any repair cost. You don't even need to use it for it to save you money. Just set it on the work bench next to you and it works like magic. Like last week when I was installing my intake flow inhibitor and adjusting the throttle to master cylinder crossover linkage, I saved hundreds of dollars by switching to Geico. he he he
I always thought the blinkers ran on smoke! Because, once I accidentally touched the two wires together and let the smoke out, and they don't work anymore.
This is known as the smoke theory of electricity. There is smoke running through your wires, and if any of it ever gets out, you have a problem somewhere.