Request: VIN Decode?
#1
Request: VIN Decode?
Hi, I'm the proud new owner of a 1986 F-150 4x4 with a 302. Can anyone decode the VIN and door tag for me? I'm curious about what this thing is equipped with.
Manufacture Date: 10/85
VIN: 1FTEF14N2GPA28XXX
Type: Truck
Exterior Paint Colors: 7B
DSO: 28
WB: 133
Type: F142
Body: DB4
Trans: T
Axle: H9
Tape: 2
Spring: B3C
Other misc codes: F0030, T0317
Thanks in advance. I have a number of other questions about this truck, so expect to see me post more in the future.
Manufacture Date: 10/85
VIN: 1FTEF14N2GPA28XXX
Type: Truck
Exterior Paint Colors: 7B
DSO: 28
WB: 133
Type: F142
Body: DB4
Trans: T
Axle: H9
Tape: 2
Spring: B3C
Other misc codes: F0030, T0317
Thanks in advance. I have a number of other questions about this truck, so expect to see me post more in the future.
#4
I can tell you just some things, but not all that you have listed:
The truck was built at the Twin Cities plant, Minneapolis/St Paul (11th VIN character P) and sold to a dealer in the Louisville area (DSO 28). This truck has a 133" wheel base (WB:133) it's a regular cab long bed (Type F142) that originaly was painted Shadow Blue Metallic Clearcoat (Color 7B). The axle is a Ford 8.8" 3.55 ratio limited slip with a 3800 lbs capacity (AXLE:H9) The engine is a 5.0L EFI 302 Cu. In. (8th Vin character N). I couldn't find a transmission listed as T. It could be a Warner T18, T19, NP435 manuals or AOD C4 or C6 automatic, who knows. I don't have any info on the spring rating (B3C) or the color of the pin striping (Tape). The body DB4 I guess is just the style. The F0030 is the front axle reserve for adding extra equipment. You can put an additional 30lbs on the front axle to still meet the GVWR. The T0317 means that the Total reserve weight for the truck, front and rear axle, is 317 lbs to still be within GVWR and carry the advertised max payload.
The truck was built at the Twin Cities plant, Minneapolis/St Paul (11th VIN character P) and sold to a dealer in the Louisville area (DSO 28). This truck has a 133" wheel base (WB:133) it's a regular cab long bed (Type F142) that originaly was painted Shadow Blue Metallic Clearcoat (Color 7B). The axle is a Ford 8.8" 3.55 ratio limited slip with a 3800 lbs capacity (AXLE:H9) The engine is a 5.0L EFI 302 Cu. In. (8th Vin character N). I couldn't find a transmission listed as T. It could be a Warner T18, T19, NP435 manuals or AOD C4 or C6 automatic, who knows. I don't have any info on the spring rating (B3C) or the color of the pin striping (Tape). The body DB4 I guess is just the style. The F0030 is the front axle reserve for adding extra equipment. You can put an additional 30lbs on the front axle to still meet the GVWR. The T0317 means that the Total reserve weight for the truck, front and rear axle, is 317 lbs to still be within GVWR and carry the advertised max payload.
#6
Transmission code T is the AOD.
The spring code doesn't decode to ratings, only to Ford engineering codes. I can tell you that the truck is equipped with the max front GAWR package though.
The body code decodes as follows:
DB4 = Knit and Vynl Bench, Blue trim interior, Regular cab Styleside
From the VIN:
1FT: Complete truck manufactured by Ford Motor Company, USA
E: Brake System: Hydraulic, Class E, 6,001-7000 LBS
F14: F150 4x4, Regular Cab
N: 302, 5.0L EFI V8
2: Check Digit
G: Completed for 1986 model year
P: Assembed at Twin Cities
A28XXX: Production sequence number
The spring code doesn't decode to ratings, only to Ford engineering codes. I can tell you that the truck is equipped with the max front GAWR package though.
The body code decodes as follows:
DB4 = Knit and Vynl Bench, Blue trim interior, Regular cab Styleside
From the VIN:
1FT: Complete truck manufactured by Ford Motor Company, USA
E: Brake System: Hydraulic, Class E, 6,001-7000 LBS
F14: F150 4x4, Regular Cab
N: 302, 5.0L EFI V8
2: Check Digit
G: Completed for 1986 model year
P: Assembed at Twin Cities
A28XXX: Production sequence number
#7
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#8
If anyone wants to see what the truck looks like, http://www3.jagsource.org/gallery/album66
#9
It took a small beating on the passenger side of the bed and the front clip it looks like. Nothing a small shopping spree at JC Whitney couldn't fix. (For the front clip anyway.) Is it me or does it look more black than the indicated shadow blue metallic clearcoat? The pinion seal does have a small leak but that's cheap and easy to fix. (Provided you have a torque wrench so that you can keep the original bearing pre-load value.)
Last edited by n578md; 05-13-2004 at 07:58 PM.
#10
In order: Yes, it did, but the front grille and bezels got removed by the PO when it got cracked while he was working on the truck. I have a replacement set, which I will be painting black to match the rest of the truck. I plan to black out the truck, except for the wheels.
At some point the truck was repainted black (not a bad job, but you can see the original blue on the inside and in a couple of spots on the door jambs) and "custom" pin stripes and 4x4 decals were applied.
What's involved in changing the pinion seal on the beast?
At some point the truck was repainted black (not a bad job, but you can see the original blue on the inside and in a couple of spots on the door jambs) and "custom" pin stripes and 4x4 decals were applied.
What's involved in changing the pinion seal on the beast?
#11
You'll have to put the truck on jack-stands and take the rear wheels off and don't set the parking brake. Make sure the brakes do not drag. If they do, you'll have to remove the calipers. You'll need to find out how exactly many ft./lbs it takes to turn the pinion. Take the driveshaft off but get some liquid paper and mark exactly what side of the driveshaft yoke fits into the pinion yoke first. Get the torque wrench and dial about 25 ft/lbs on it and try to rotate the pinon nut. If the torque wrench clicks without ever moving the pinion, then go up a few ft/lbs until you find the first setting the rotates the pinion without clicking. It should take about 25-30 ft/lbs to turn the pinion. Record the exact number, that's the pinion bearing pre-load value. Very important! Then get some liquid paper and mark the position of the yoke in reference to the axle snout so that you can put it back exactly the same way on the splines of the pinion. That way the driveshaft will still be in phase. You'll need a chain wrench or something like that to hold the yoke (and the pinion itself) from truning while you undo the pinion lock bolt. Then count how many turns it takes for the nut to come off the pinon for reference when you put everything back on. Then, you pry off the plastic shield (called a deflector) with a flat blade screw driver and do the same for the pinion seal. Be careful not to scratch anything or it will always leak. Clean everything up real good with the alcohol. Put some grease on the new seal and put it in place. You can use either a seal tool, a big and deep socket or a piece of schedule 40 pipe to drive the new seal in there nice and even. Unfortunatly I don't remember what pipe size I used, maybe 2". Then put the deflector back on, then the yoke according to the marks you made. Put the pinion bolt back on and see if it takes the same number of turns to put it back on. It should. Tighten the pinion bolt with the torque wrench set using the pre-load value you recorded (Pinion bearing pre-load value) while holding the yoke with the chain wrench. Then put the driveshaft back on putting it back lined up with the liquid paper marks. Re-fill the diff with gear oil. I don't know what was used back then. Probably 90 weight oil. Wipe everything clean with rubbing alcohol around where the leak was to get it clean and go drive it for about 20 miles. If it still leaks, you didn't put the seal on evenly (or worse, theres a damned scracth where the seal goes!) and you'll have to go buy a new one and start all over again. (Damn, I hate when that happens!) There, all done. See, it was easy. It just sounds harder than it is.
#12
#13
#15
"Tighten the pinion bolt with the torque wrench set using the pre-load value you recorded (Pinion bearing pre-load value) while holding the yoke with the chain wrench."
I forgot to tell you and make clear that to get to the pre-load value, you have to tighten the pinion nut to about 160 ft/lbs first while holding the yoke steady and then see if it takes the amount of ft/lbs you got when you measured how much it took to spin the pinion. If it takes less than you recorded, tighten the pinion nut a little more until it takes exactly the amount of bearing pre-load to spin the pinion. Also, because you aren't replacing the bearings, the value might very well be lower than 25 ft/lbs.
I forgot to tell you and make clear that to get to the pre-load value, you have to tighten the pinion nut to about 160 ft/lbs first while holding the yoke steady and then see if it takes the amount of ft/lbs you got when you measured how much it took to spin the pinion. If it takes less than you recorded, tighten the pinion nut a little more until it takes exactly the amount of bearing pre-load to spin the pinion. Also, because you aren't replacing the bearings, the value might very well be lower than 25 ft/lbs.
Last edited by n578md; 05-16-2004 at 04:04 PM.
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