First of all, I read alot of old posts. Seems to be alot of opinions out there. OK, my situation. I have a 76 Bronco with a 302. I just bought the truck with a blown engine. I do have a spare 351-W HO out of a 85 truck. This will be my new play toy. Little info that will prob. help. It's a automatic, 4.11 gears, with 36" tsl's. Looking for some input on how you would rebuild the engine. Pretend it's your engine. I want you guys to help me build this. I don't want to go crazy with it, but would like to do it right. Truck will have historic tags, so no inspections. Of course I want low end power. I do want to hear a healthy cam. If both are possible. Opinions for this situation are all welcome. I found long tube coated headers so thats my only start. Keep in mind the primary tubes are only 1.5". Can't find any larger primary's for the 351 that fits in the 76 Bronco. Reason I mention this, I was thinking about stroking the 351 and was told 1.5" primary's would choke it. Thanks, Dan

 

Anyone? Please...

 

Well if I were building my engine with your money it would probably look like this:


600-650 cfm carb demon/holley/edelbrock any of these would work. I have used an edelbrock and holley so I would go with the demon, supposed to be a little better than the rest, from what I have heard. I like either, being the demon is a modified version of the holley, supposedly updated, I would expect it to perform well.

weiand stealth intake....it says from idle to wherever and I believe that to be correct.

XE262H comp cam p/n 35-238-3....I spoke with a couple people using this camshaft in a similar application...it provides a slight performance sound (lope) and has great low end torque and great manifold vacuum.

If you can afford aftermarket heads then get the best you can afford, performer work well, if you don't have emission then get the performer rpm, they are the same head, except the rpm aren't drilled for smog.

You could always get gt-40p or gt-40's anywhere from $250 used to $520 for brand new gt-40p's with larger valves (1.94/1.60) and 5 angle valve job complete with springs. Watch out seems sellers of the gt-40 think they have gold, I have seen prices for used gt-40's with 75,000+ miles bone stock around $300, that too much IMO. There may be an issue with the angle of the spark plugs if you go with the gt-40p's, no problems with the gt-40.


If you can afford it then stroke that sucker, even if your headers would choke it, it'll perform better than a standard stroke motor, besides your wanting to operate in the lower rpms I believe, so they should work fine. Scat crank and stock 351w rods with arp bolts topped off with 302 stock type pistons with the required overbore and your good for 393 ci.

You might also consider looking around for a 4X4 torque converter. Good luck

 

Thanks jwtaylor, for the carb I'll be buying a Holley T/A. I do like the stealth intake. Do you think it's taller than most dual plane intakes? I ask this because off hood clearance issues going from a 302 to a 351 in a early Bronco. I'm hoping it will be ok, because I have a 3" body lift. Do you happen to have the specs for the cam? I will prob use the Performer RPM heads. Is it true w/aluminum heads you can run higher compression pistons and still use pump gas? I'm going to talk to a few shops this week and get thier opinions. But most shops around know alot more about Chebys than Ford and that scares me.

 

Yeah you can run higher compression ratios with aluminum heads, with that said your not gonna want to go too high unless premium fuel cost/race fuel concerns you.

There isn't much if any difference in the stealths height over other dual plane intakes.

Cam specs:

Camshaft Specification Table
Part Number 35-238-3
Engine 1969-1995 Ford
351ci,
Windsor,
8cyl.
Grind Number FW XE262H-10
Description

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Intake Exhaust
Valve Adjustment 0 0
Gross Valve Lift 0.493 0.5
Duration At 0.006 Tappet Lift 262 270

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Valve Timing At 0.006
Open Close
Intake 25 57
Exhaust 69 21

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 106 Intake CL
Intake Exhaust
Duration At 0.05 218 224
Lobe Lift 0.309 0.313
Lobe Separation 110

 

When you say 4x4 torque converter, is there a rpm starting point you suggest? Thanks for cam specs...

 

Not really.

Its always easier to rebuild the tranny with the engine that way everything is "theoretically" good to go.

A new converter is always a good idea.

Companies offer 4X4 or truck converters that are built a little beefier for added low end torque and a little higher than stock stall that'll put you right (ideally) into the rpms your truck makes power to get those big tires motivated to move, I also read a comment it would also help with added valvetrain vibration that occur with 4X4 vehicles.

Its not necessary with the cam but it would make the overall set up a bit nicer.


Good luck

 

No doubt.. Good catch.. The trans will be rebuilt, RV shift kit, a new converter, I will check into the different truck converters.. and I'll have the transfer case gone through..