Bell housing leak
#16
Originally Posted by Choctaw Bob
Here is what I've discovered. I installed a Autometer oil pressure gage after discovering that the stock oil pressure gage reads in the middle when above 7 psi and 0 below 7psi.
When I started the engine I discovered that with cold 15W40 Motorcraft, I had 90 PSI at idle. When I drove it the pressure jumped off the gage, in excess of 120 PSI. Any old timer truck mechanic like me will tell you that pressure in excess of 90 psi will blow past any main seal and eventually work on the gaskets too.
I changed my oil to 5W40 Mibil Delvac 1 (same as Mobil 1 Truck/SUV oil at Walmart) and the pressure dropped to 70 cold idle and 100 at 2200 RPM cold.
I now try to warm up before I drive off.
All this and the bell housing is slightly wet. No drips on the drive. 14,000 miles.
When I started the engine I discovered that with cold 15W40 Motorcraft, I had 90 PSI at idle. When I drove it the pressure jumped off the gage, in excess of 120 PSI. Any old timer truck mechanic like me will tell you that pressure in excess of 90 psi will blow past any main seal and eventually work on the gaskets too.
I changed my oil to 5W40 Mibil Delvac 1 (same as Mobil 1 Truck/SUV oil at Walmart) and the pressure dropped to 70 cold idle and 100 at 2200 RPM cold.
I now try to warm up before I drive off.
All this and the bell housing is slightly wet. No drips on the drive. 14,000 miles.
#17
Originally Posted by SBV45
Bob, I don't doubt your claim that the drips stopped. But, I asked the diesel tech at the service dept I use why use synthetics and the issue of higher oil pressures at lower temps and it's effect on RMS. He said there is only about 10 psi oil pressure at the rear main seal. Oil pressures are varied at different parts of the engine. He did not think that the higher pressures caused the RMS to leak.
I think I remember that Ford Cleveland engines oiled the cam bearings first so folks that hot rodded those engines had to put restrictors in the oil system to force enough oil pressure to the mains.
#18
check the box on page 21 titled "Lubrication System Features". The second bullett states "There are no oil passages located on the outside of the crankcase. This reduces the chances for oil leaks." The rear main seal is part of the crancase. The main bearings are all internal. I don't see where that diagram shows a oil pressure port in the crankshaft at the rear main seal.
Anybody have a maintenance manual to look that up?
Anybody have a maintenance manual to look that up?
#19
Originally Posted by SBV45
check the box on page 21 titled "Lubrication System Features". The second bullett states "There are no oil passages located on the outside of the crankcase. This reduces the chances for oil leaks." The rear main seal is part of the crancase. The main bearings are all internal. I don't see where that diagram shows a oil pressure port in the crankshaft at the rear main seal.
Anybody have a maintenance manual to look that up?
Anybody have a maintenance manual to look that up?
I worked as a mechanic in my younger days. I have built several race cars and a number of engines for friends race cars. Trust me, I know what I'm talking about.
#20
Likewise.. I do know my way around a wrench. I have replaced more than one rear main seal. But, this 6.0 is a different breed of cat. I looked at a cutaway of a 6.0 at the Powerstroke Diesel demo trailer. This RMS is different. I understand what you are saying but I am looking for corroborating information.
I have been known to be wrong before.
I have been known to be wrong before.
#21
Here is what the tech over at 6LITERPOWERSTROKE forum says:
"first i don't believe that switching to sysnthetic oil will stop an oil leak. the rear main seal will have low oil pressure on it whether it is 10 psi or not depends on the temp and the condition of the engine and oil."
"the crankshaft is lubed by the low pressure system. any oil that is supplied to the rear bearing will be on the seal. there is a small gap beetween the journal and the bearing that is filled with oil. it has a constant supply from the low pressure oil system so any oil that is sent to the rear main will pass though the gap and onto the seal."
So that doesn't settle anything does it? I believe your drip stopped when you went to synthetic, but my own opinion is that it wasn't the root cause.
"first i don't believe that switching to sysnthetic oil will stop an oil leak. the rear main seal will have low oil pressure on it whether it is 10 psi or not depends on the temp and the condition of the engine and oil."
"the crankshaft is lubed by the low pressure system. any oil that is supplied to the rear bearing will be on the seal. there is a small gap beetween the journal and the bearing that is filled with oil. it has a constant supply from the low pressure oil system so any oil that is sent to the rear main will pass though the gap and onto the seal."
So that doesn't settle anything does it? I believe your drip stopped when you went to synthetic, but my own opinion is that it wasn't the root cause.
#22
Originally Posted by SBV45
Here is what the tech over at 6LITERPOWERSTROKE forum says:
"first i don't believe that switching to sysnthetic oil will stop an oil leak. the rear main seal will have low oil pressure on it whether it is 10 psi or not depends on the temp and the condition of the engine and oil."
"the crankshaft is lubed by the low pressure system. any oil that is supplied to the rear bearing will be on the seal. there is a small gap beetween the journal and the bearing that is filled with oil. it has a constant supply from the low pressure oil system so any oil that is sent to the rear main will pass though the gap and onto the seal."
So that doesn't settle anything does it? I believe your drip stopped when you went to synthetic, but my own opinion is that it wasn't the root cause.
"first i don't believe that switching to sysnthetic oil will stop an oil leak. the rear main seal will have low oil pressure on it whether it is 10 psi or not depends on the temp and the condition of the engine and oil."
"the crankshaft is lubed by the low pressure system. any oil that is supplied to the rear bearing will be on the seal. there is a small gap beetween the journal and the bearing that is filled with oil. it has a constant supply from the low pressure oil system so any oil that is sent to the rear main will pass though the gap and onto the seal."
So that doesn't settle anything does it? I believe your drip stopped when you went to synthetic, but my own opinion is that it wasn't the root cause.
#23
#24
Originally Posted by 'Ol Timer
My 2003 F350 ,build date jan 03, has leaked oil from day one. Dealer is aware of the problem, dye in the oil etc, but I haven't pressed them to fix it yet because of the down time. Wondering how long the dealer typically takes to fix the rear main seal?
I have had 1 r seal and a gasket replaced so far and each has been about a week. Good luck
PSDboy
#25
Originally Posted by SBV45
You and I have agreed on a lot on this forum. I have the hanging drip. No oil on the floor. Next oil change, I will try the Mobil 1 Truck & SUV and see if that cures the drip.
#26
Noticed this onmy truck as well
Hello,
I noticed some oil that was *slowly* (as in dust had accumulated on the leak) at the top of the "oil pan". I noticed this as I was changing my oil.
I've never had a leak on the ground before. I have an appointment to get the truck looked at on Monday, but you have to wonder what's causing the oil to be on the outside of oil pan, left side.
I noticed some oil that was *slowly* (as in dust had accumulated on the leak) at the top of the "oil pan". I noticed this as I was changing my oil.
I've never had a leak on the ground before. I have an appointment to get the truck looked at on Monday, but you have to wonder what's causing the oil to be on the outside of oil pan, left side.
#27
#28
bell house leak
To the leak ques. . I have had four replaced so far to this date. i have a early "03" they replaced the rearengine cover on the fourth attempt. Now its been in the shop for almost 4 weeks well this comign tuesday will be 4 weeks.. They say they are pulling motor and a delay on a tool to pull it. From what they just told me a few minutes ago on the phone they have to have the engine out to diagnois it.. Serviec advisor told me mechanic is looking to try to get a new engine to put in. Canot identify the prob so far ! I say replace truck or money back, we will see how that goes. hoping for full payback but i think im going to have to see a lawer for that. If any one knows how to make them buge on the replacement or by back can u pls. give me some answers im plain lost atm. tried everything . ty and have a great day
#30
Originally Posted by chrisc252525
To the leak ques. . I have had four replaced so far to this date. i have a early "03" they replaced the rearengine cover on the fourth attempt. Now its been in the shop for almost 4 weeks well this comign tuesday will be 4 weeks.. They say they are pulling motor and a delay on a tool to pull it. From what they just told me a few minutes ago on the phone they have to have the engine out to diagnois it.. Serviec advisor told me mechanic is looking to try to get a new engine to put in. Canot identify the prob so far ! I say replace truck or money back, we will see how that goes. hoping for full payback but i think im going to have to see a lawer for that. If any one knows how to make them buge on the replacement or by back can u pls. give me some answers im plain lost atm. tried everything . ty and have a great day