Hello,

I've come into possesion of a old(I would guess 1960's-1970's maybe) Saylor Beal air compressor. It's been sitting outside for about a year now, I've yet to inspect it to thoroughly but I can already tell I need to redo the wiring, currently there are four terminal screws..a lamp cord has been stripped and plugged into two of them. It appears to have an opening on top for oil , any tips on how these things drain and are re-oiled in general? It is an old compressor in the shape of a hotdog with the wiring on top. Anything else I need to look for when trying to get this thing running? Any common problems or things that would affect it from having sat outside for so long? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'd like to bring this old tool back to life.

-Ray

 

I would be a bit reserved about using a 30-40 year old compressor. Not only does it most likely lack modern safety devices the tank might not be sound anymore.

 

first thing to do is get that tank pressure tested. next thing if the tank is shot just use a new tank and the old compressor unit with a new blow off valve and new pressure shut of switch. than it will be as safe as anything made today and still cost a whole lot less.

 

Sounds good, I'm not sure how to pressure test the tank but I know Sears sells new ones really cheap. Are the blow off valve and pressure shutoff switches inline things I can put on the hose or will I have to find one specific to the compressor? Trying to google the parts and not coming up with anything that helpful.

Thanks,
Ray

 

The pressure relief valve and the pressure switch are screwed directly into fittings in the tank. Any existing or new tank you buy will have provisions to connect these important items.

The pressure relief valve is usually machined from brass hex bar stock & has a "key ring" on the end of it. There are different sizes and relief pressures available. Typically less than 10 bucks for a homeowner-size compressor.

The pressure switch will likely set you back around 40 bucks. You need to know what pressure you want the motor to kick on and off at and the motor horsepower.

Good luck with your project.

Cheers,
Eric

 

Eric pretty much summed it up. another thing that is not necassary but helpful would be a regulater to regulate the air pressure going into the linethere fairly cheap even walmart sells them.

 

Thanks alot for all the help,
I managed to locate some pressure shutoff switches on a few websitesthat seem like they'll work, seems like I just wire them to the hot/neutral terminal screws that the power cord is wired to and that it'll kill power when the pressure going through it is higher than it's supposed to be. Haven't found a blowoff valve yet on any websites but figure the hardware store might know where to find one, definitely going to get the pressure regulator so I can set things to the right pressure for air tools.

-Ray

 

The regulator will automatically be set for kick off at 125-130 psi depending on the brand, your horsepower won't matter unless your running a 220 or bigger multiple phase unit. Also one thing you will need that they usually did not have back then is a tank valve or check valve as they are sometimes call. It is a large one way valve that screws directly into the tank and connects to the line going to the head. It is spring loaded and only opens when the compressor is running to keep the pressure off the cylinder head when starting, thus making it easier to run continuously if needed. Also many new versions of this valve will have a small bleeder line that connects to newer style pressure switches that will actually bleed the air off the main line when the commpressor kicks off, the little air blast you hear when new ones kick off. Probably 20 dollars at local plumbing store for all the parts. As far as the pump goes, you need to pull the head off the cylinder and see if it has spring type reed valves or plate type valves, cause more than likely they are shot. Spring type can probably be interchange with emglo type valves and plate type can simply be made out of a 4 dollar porter cable belt sander bottom plate, we do it all the time at work, they are actually stronger and last longer than factory reed plates. And you will more than likely need to pull the jug on the pump and check the cylinder walls, probably no hone left but can easily be restored with a small hone and drill, check your piston rings while you have it apart, look for shiney spots or really sharp edges, if you find em, pull em. Just make sure when you put your jug back on that you have the rings 180 degrees apart ( some are 3 ring some are 2) so it can keep the oil where it belongs and build pressure like it needs too. Definately ditch the tank or get it tested immediately, local fire stations or welding shops can do this for you alot cheaper than artifical legs. Good luck, let me know if you need more help!