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highboy suspention improvements

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Old May 17, 2004 | 04:54 AM
  #16  
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one other thing to touch on the d60 conversion, something i have been wanting to know also. when going from a drum brake d44 to a disc brake d60, does anything other than the master cylinder need changed to get it to stop well?
 
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Old May 17, 2004 | 09:29 AM
  #17  
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i dont think that you would have to change the master cylinder, i think its the same, butmight need to use a proportioning valve.

bout how much (ballpark figure) would it cost to rebuild a steering box?
 
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Old May 22, 2004 | 12:33 AM
  #18  
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with dropping suspention points on the frontend, i would obviously need to use a different way to mount the shackle's, so is there a way to do some from jusnkyard parts? on the front could i just stick blocks between the frame and the spring mount-thingie? then just check the pinion angle?

when i drive over an obsticle with just one tire, and cant turn the wheels when the tire goes up, is that bumpsteer? and would getting the lines fixed for the power assist help fix that untill i can adress the steering properly with high steer and a power steering box?
 
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Old May 22, 2004 | 05:18 AM
  #19  
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Why is the kingpin design better than the balljoint-balljoint seems like a simpler idea to me,-is it because the balljoints come with the crappy unit-bearings??
 
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Old May 23, 2004 | 06:34 PM
  #20  
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Kingpins are simply a stronger design and you have less chance of your tire coming off while in 4' of mud than you do with balljoints. Balljoints are fine, but they just aren't as strong. This is why the D60 kingpin fronts draw a premium over the bj fronts. That, and typically they are easier to bolt up.
 
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Old May 25, 2004 | 01:29 PM
  #21  
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eaier to to highsteer/crossover with kinpins 60's too
 
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Old May 28, 2004 | 11:39 PM
  #22  
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any recommendations for spring hangers? and is the amount that i drop the front suspention points the amount the truck will be lifted?
 
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Old May 29, 2004 | 12:54 PM
  #23  
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You could always weld up some beefy ones of your own, if thats the direction you are going. Yes, the amount you drop your hanger points (I think this is what you are talking about doing?) will be the amount your raise the truck.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2004 | 10:48 AM
  #24  
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the minimum that i could go by dropping the suspention points would be about 3-4 inchesof lift for the back shackle, and by lowering the front points i wouldn't gain clearance and still have that piece of steel that goes between the two hangers. so what if i dropped just the rear hanger? what i drop the points would most likely be twice of what it is lifted. but this also looks like it would help with the backward and up axle movement. plus i can correct pinion angle by welding on new perches on whatever 60 i get. BTW i messed up when calculating front spring rate, the correct number is 516 lb/in
 

Last edited by muscletruck7379; Jun 6, 2004 at 10:51 AM.
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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 10:20 PM
  #25  
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progress has been slow. i have been working so much i barely have enough time to even play with the poor truck... but anyways i found some leaves off a 2wd. I have all but the main leaf, but they are the same except that they are 1/4 inch thick instead of 3/8 so i am gonna start swapping them 1 leaf at a time untill i get what i want. the only question that i have has to do with spring arch. the 2wd springs have more arch to them than the springs on my highboy have. so if i go to swap the 2nd longest leaf with the thinner one would i encounter any problems?
 
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