I have a 90 2wd bII and I am hearing a clicking noise from the rear end. The noise seems to only happen when taking off, especially turning or going through dips. I know I read a post on this before but can't for the life of me find it.

Thanks

 

It could possibly be the rear wheel bearings are screwed up, just a thought

 

The same exact noise is happening on my car (a 1990 toyota celica), except on the front left. Still not sure what it is yet, but my grandpa suggested wheel bearnings also... It has the same symptoms as yours - clicking when taking off, switching from drive to reverse, sharp turns, etc. Let me know if you find out what is causing it for sure.

Ryan

 

check your rear u-joint

 

Clicking on take-off is a classic symptom of failing CV-joints on the rear driveshaft. Do you still have the stock rezeppa CV-style shaft?

 

had that problem...got worse and worse and clicked all the time then the cv-style shaft broke. My bet is if you have one that is it

 

Yes it is still the factory drive shaft. I don't get to drive this one much, might be the reason I haven't broken the shaft yet.

 

I guess I have the same problem. Can anyone point me in the direction of a cheap fix for this? Thanks in advance.

 

this thread is confusing. A 90 2 wheel drive baby bronco 2 has constant velocity joints in the rear axle?
When my 70 F-250 finally died it was because the pinion broke half a tooth off and lodged it in the ring gear groove. It had a rythmic clicking noise from the back end. The bearings for the spider gear carrier went out. Not enough oil in the differential. Shame on the ****.
Ujoints are fairly easy to fix and a gasket for pulling the diff cover off for inspection cant cost too much.

What kind of wheel covers do you have? If that cap in the center has a loose peice it will clink.

You don't want a drive shaft braking at hiway speed. It can easily tear up lots of expensive stuff when it comes out from under the truck

 

If this thread is confusing, shaggymane, then you have never dealt with a rear driveshaft on a baby bronco (lucky you). FYI, they don't have CV joints in the rear axle. The 7.5 inch rear that was installed in BII's and Rangers is a standard semi-floating solid rear axle like the Ford 8.8. The CV joints I refer to are in the rear driveshaft (yes, the shaft connecting the transfer case to the rear differential). BII's are the only confirmed application I'm aware of that used this kind of driveshaft. Most people agree that it wasn't one of Ford's better ideas.
If you're lucky, when the CV joints fail completely, the shaft stays in place and just spins inside the joint. However, oftentimes when the joints fail, the driveshaft falls apart and does take out all kinds of other stuff, like you said.
"Cheapest" fix is to replace the driveshaft with a single cardan u-joint driveshaft. Just about any driveshaft shop should be able to hook you up. The good ones will know what you need as soon as you tell them you have a BII. If your BII is lifted (or will be lifted) then you'll want to pay extra and get a double cardan driveshaft.

 

Just to finish this one, it WAS the CV joints in the drive shaft and as it turned out they were both bad. The rear one was nearly gone and the front was starting to go out. Had it replaced with a U-joint shaft for just over $200. And not one noise since then.

Thanks all for the input and advice.