Check engine light - what now?
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Check engine light - what now?
I just got a 1996 Ranger 3L. It has 133K miles, runs perfect, and even looks good. But, the "Check Engine" light stays on.
On my old 82 Camaro I just shorted a couple of pins on the computer connector and it blinks the error codes at me. In fact, I mounted a momentary switch on the computer-plug faceplate so now when I get a check engine light I just press a button and count the flashes. Disconnecting the batery erases the current error.
Is there any way to pull the error-code out of the Ranger without a $50-$100 scanner? I've been reading up on this OBD-II stuff and it looks like a scanner is the only way to pull codes. I want to erase the code as well and see if it comes back (whatever it is).
I would just take it to a shop but they usually charge a bunch to just pull the error code. I would rather buy a scanner with that money and be set for the next time. Plus, I usually work on my own cars to save money.
Any suggestions?
On my old 82 Camaro I just shorted a couple of pins on the computer connector and it blinks the error codes at me. In fact, I mounted a momentary switch on the computer-plug faceplate so now when I get a check engine light I just press a button and count the flashes. Disconnecting the batery erases the current error.
Is there any way to pull the error-code out of the Ranger without a $50-$100 scanner? I've been reading up on this OBD-II stuff and it looks like a scanner is the only way to pull codes. I want to erase the code as well and see if it comes back (whatever it is).
I would just take it to a shop but they usually charge a bunch to just pull the error code. I would rather buy a scanner with that money and be set for the next time. Plus, I usually work on my own cars to save money.
Any suggestions?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Connecticut
Welcome to Ford Truck Enthusiasts! Congrats on the new Ranger.
The only way to pull the codes from your OBD-II system is with a scan tool.
Many national brand auto parts stores will pull the codes for you for free, if you just ask them to. AutoZone will do it (as long as you don't live in CA).
I bought a simple Actron OBD-II scanner for about 150 bucks around 1.5 years ago. It reads and erases codes, does a few other unspectacular things, and not much else. But I do use it quite often, more than I thought I would, and it's saving me some real dough. A great tool to have in your box, IMO. You can probably get them even cheaper now like you say.
Disconnecting the ground cable from your battery for 20 minutes or so will erase the stored trouble codes on your Ranger.
If you can get the codes pulled, post them here and we'll see what we can do to help you resolve the problem.
The only way to pull the codes from your OBD-II system is with a scan tool.
Many national brand auto parts stores will pull the codes for you for free, if you just ask them to. AutoZone will do it (as long as you don't live in CA).
I bought a simple Actron OBD-II scanner for about 150 bucks around 1.5 years ago. It reads and erases codes, does a few other unspectacular things, and not much else. But I do use it quite often, more than I thought I would, and it's saving me some real dough. A great tool to have in your box, IMO. You can probably get them even cheaper now like you say.
Disconnecting the ground cable from your battery for 20 minutes or so will erase the stored trouble codes on your Ranger.
If you can get the codes pulled, post them here and we'll see what we can do to help you resolve the problem.
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I went to Autozone and they checked it for free and erased the error. But the error came back. The Check Engine error read as a problem with the Cam Sensor or Timing. I'm going to assume the cheapest and easiest first. Ehhh....where do I find the Cam Sensor?
P.S. I remember the old days when we used timing lights and dwell meters and all that. A car with bad timing sounded rough. This truck runs smooth as glass. So that's another reason I'm assuming it's the Cam Sensor.
P.S. I remember the old days when we used timing lights and dwell meters and all that. A car with bad timing sounded rough. This truck runs smooth as glass. So that's another reason I'm assuming it's the Cam Sensor.
Post Fiend
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From: Connecticut
You can read up on the 3.0L CMP sensor/synchronizer assembly in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=202004
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=202004
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Awwwwe...I found it. If you look at the rear of the passenger side intake manifold and follow it down you can see the Cam Sensor at the very back of the engine buried pretty deep. I took the two screws out and got it loose, but I can't figure out how to unsnap the plug without breaking it. I guess I'll just fiddle with it awhile and see what happens.
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From: peoria, az
You can usually squeeze the connector and it will release. If not then take a very small screwdriver and slide it in the top of the connector and that will usually do it. Did you just lose the sensor magnet or did it take out the syncronizer too?
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stepman:
No, it took out the syncronizer also. I started to put the new sensor on and realized it wouldn't fit. The top of the syncronizer thingy has no <a href="http://nanders.is-a-geek.net/ranger-camshaft/camshaft-diagram.jpg">C-dillie-bopper</a> on top of the syncronizer, to pass through the sensor. It just collapsed and looks like a half pyramid preventing the new unbroken sensor to seat on it. If I can find a shop to do it at a reasonable price I'll let them do it. Else I will have to do it alone. I have no help available.
No, it took out the syncronizer also. I started to put the new sensor on and realized it wouldn't fit. The top of the syncronizer thingy has no <a href="http://nanders.is-a-geek.net/ranger-camshaft/camshaft-diagram.jpg">C-dillie-bopper</a> on top of the syncronizer, to pass through the sensor. It just collapsed and looks like a half pyramid preventing the new unbroken sensor to seat on it. If I can find a shop to do it at a reasonable price I'll let them do it. Else I will have to do it alone. I have no help available.
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From: peoria, az
It's not hard to do it yourself. It's just like changing a distributor. Just make note of where the "c-thing" is and watch as it comes out. (it will turn a little) Make sure the new one goes back in in the same position. Only takes about 15 minutes. Also, there is a hold-down bolt(just like a distrib)
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From: Homer, Alaska
If the "c-dillie-bopper" is still somewhat intact, (especially the front of it) you can probable replace it by putting the new one back in the same position. It will be difficult, because the bopper turns like a distributor when engaging with the camshaft gear. There are some good posts on this forum about the cps that may help. The best way is to get the alignment tool, and use it while #1 piston is TDC on compression stroke.
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From: peoria, az
I find that the "special alignment tool" is a waste unless the "c-piece" is completely gone. I replace these things all the time. They are a problem on the 3.0. Got to where I don't even check codes anymore, if the light is on I just pull the sensor and have a look. It's not hard, just make note of where the piece is (like a rotor) and put the new one in the same way.
TIP: the piece runs 180 degrees, you can make marks for the edges on the intake to help line it up. Watch it as it comes out, it will turn slightly. If it doesn't end up where you want it, raise it up and move it a tooth and try again.( exactly like replacing a distributor)
TIP: the piece runs 180 degrees, you can make marks for the edges on the intake to help line it up. Watch it as it comes out, it will turn slightly. If it doesn't end up where you want it, raise it up and move it a tooth and try again.( exactly like replacing a distributor)
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I can't find that "special positioning tool" anywhere. Ford, Autozone, Napa don't seem to have it. But I did get the Syncronizer shaft. $137 at Ford.
It's hard to tell from the Snycronizer that's on there where the "C" is supposed to be because it is collasped. But perhaps I can wing it. Egads! Now that I know what it's supposed to look like I think I can do it. Without a "special positioning tool" I guess there is no reason to put it TDC (Top dead center) either. I will just try to put it back with the "C" in exactly the same place as the old one. I guess if the truck starts running rough cause I got it wrong I can just redo it or remove the sensor.
;-)
It's hard to tell from the Snycronizer that's on there where the "C" is supposed to be because it is collasped. But perhaps I can wing it. Egads! Now that I know what it's supposed to look like I think I can do it. Without a "special positioning tool" I guess there is no reason to put it TDC (Top dead center) either. I will just try to put it back with the "C" in exactly the same place as the old one. I guess if the truck starts running rough cause I got it wrong I can just redo it or remove the sensor.
;-)
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From: peoria, az
If you look at it close, you should still be able to see the "ends" of the c and the side it is on. The c should run half way around. Get a good look. I like to mark where the ends should be on the intake. It also has the shaft on the bottom so, if you don't get it right, it may not drop all the way. If not, just lift it up and turn it one tooth. Then "center" the slot for the sensor for the harness. ( I hope that part don't confuse you)
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
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I'll post how it comes out some time tonight.
Most of the shops I talked to wanted many hundreds of dollars to fix it. About half left it "Open ended" so they could charge more. That's just insane.
From the looks of it I think I figured out why they fail. The sensor housing is all plastic with that little metal peice in the middle. If the plastic gets old and crumbly and that little metal peice falls out of the sensor then essentially what you have created is a rock-tumbler. That little metal peice from the sensor will just be knocked around by the "C" piece spinning on the syncronizer shaft. If they had made the sensor housing out of aluminum I don't think these things would fail. At least not to the point where you would have to replace the syncronizer shaft. It might be a very good idea to just replace that syncronizer sensor every 30k-50K miles, even if it's working. The senor is only $25 and is easy to replace. Cheap and easy preventative maintenance!
Most of the shops I talked to wanted many hundreds of dollars to fix it. About half left it "Open ended" so they could charge more. That's just insane.
From the looks of it I think I figured out why they fail. The sensor housing is all plastic with that little metal peice in the middle. If the plastic gets old and crumbly and that little metal peice falls out of the sensor then essentially what you have created is a rock-tumbler. That little metal peice from the sensor will just be knocked around by the "C" piece spinning on the syncronizer shaft. If they had made the sensor housing out of aluminum I don't think these things would fail. At least not to the point where you would have to replace the syncronizer shaft. It might be a very good idea to just replace that syncronizer sensor every 30k-50K miles, even if it's working. The senor is only $25 and is easy to replace. Cheap and easy preventative maintenance!
Last edited by Ranger3L; Apr 27, 2004 at 04:40 PM.
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OK, I got it all back together and cranked her up. Seems to run fine, and with no check engine light. Thanks everyone, I couldn't have done it without you!
Here is a picture of the old and new Cam-Sensor. Notice the old one just had the metal piece floating around inside. These make nice rock-tumblers.
http://home.comcast.net/~kr4495/Ranger3L/CamSensor.jpg
Here is a picture of the top of the old and new Syncronizers. Notice the old one has the "C" ridge all bent and smoothed by the above metal piece from the sensor.
http://home.comcast.net/~kr4495/Ranger3L/CamSyncronizer.jpg
It seems to run OK. But is there any way to know for sure that it is seated correctly? The teeth on that Syncronizer are very large. If I moved it forward or backward a single tooth it didn't look positioned right. So I am fairly sure it went in correctly. But now I find myself listening to every noise, and feeling every hum/jog of the engine. Now I keep wondering if it is one tooth off. Perhaps these things should come with a warning "Paranoids should not undertake this task!". LOL. Seriously, is there any way to know for sure? Or, should I just take my meds and not worry about it. ;-)
Here is a picture of the old and new Cam-Sensor. Notice the old one just had the metal piece floating around inside. These make nice rock-tumblers.
http://home.comcast.net/~kr4495/Ranger3L/CamSensor.jpg
Here is a picture of the top of the old and new Syncronizers. Notice the old one has the "C" ridge all bent and smoothed by the above metal piece from the sensor.
http://home.comcast.net/~kr4495/Ranger3L/CamSyncronizer.jpg
It seems to run OK. But is there any way to know for sure that it is seated correctly? The teeth on that Syncronizer are very large. If I moved it forward or backward a single tooth it didn't look positioned right. So I am fairly sure it went in correctly. But now I find myself listening to every noise, and feeling every hum/jog of the engine. Now I keep wondering if it is one tooth off. Perhaps these things should come with a warning "Paranoids should not undertake this task!". LOL. Seriously, is there any way to know for sure? Or, should I just take my meds and not worry about it. ;-)
Last edited by Ranger3L; Apr 28, 2004 at 01:37 AM.
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From: peoria, az
Looks like you ran that one for a while with the light on. Take your meds and don't worry about it. You should have it in close enough. All it is for is fuel timing anyways, if you are within a few degrees you should be all right. Sometimes if you catch them right when the light comes on you can get it before it wipes out the syncro. 