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I have a 1993 f-150 automatic E4OD and when I got it the ABS light was on...
1st - it was on constantly - not flashing - didn't check codes either.
Fix was to connect the 2 wires going to the break fluid level sensor with a tap in connector and cut the black ground wire ( fools the computer into thinking the fluid is always full. a new brake fluid tank sensor is like $60 and you have to bleed the entire system - YUCK!) - Volia, ABS worked great for a year.
2nd - Abs light come on again and patch is still in place... check for another sensor - followed brake lines to a sensor under driver side the is like a pressure sensor for the brake fluid ( bought it a autozone less than $35 maybe?) - Volia the light goes out and another year goes by.
3rd - The ABS light is on again!!! I have just checked the codes and it is say the rear differential sensor is bad!!! So now I'm out $35 bucks to O-riley's
So there you have it - The only 3 sensors I have found on the RABS II system. All easy fixes once figured out... Now enjoy all the hard work I have done and just buy each sensor and replace until the damn idiot light goes out!
If you want to get the errors codes you have to short out the black and Orange wire (connect a jumper and touch it to a grounded metal part of the truck) while the ignition is on (NOT engine started)... The error code will be a series of short flashes followed by a long flash - count them all - it will repeat until the ignition is turned off.
The Rabs II test connector is behind the glove box. You can easily remove the glove box with out tools. Just remove all contents and then press the tabs on the sides toward the middle inside of the glove box - now it will tip over and out. My Test wire was dangling on the right side wall pluged into another wire (this Black wire with an Orange stripe is plugged into a connector which is plugged into another wire going elsewhere to the system... Unplug the connector by lifting the plactic retaining flap and plug in a female jumper wire that is long enough to reach a gounded spot in the truck.
The Rabs II test connector is behind the glove box. You can easily remove the glove box with out tools. Just remove all contents and then press the tabs on the sides toward the middle inside of the glove box - now it will tip over and out. My Test wire was dangling on the right side wall pluged into another wire (this Black wire with an Orange stripe is plugged into a connector which is plugged into another wire going elsewhere to the system... Unplug the connector by lifting the plactic retaining flap and plug in a female jumper wire that is long enough to reach a gounded spot in the truck.
i did just that and couldnt find a wire.. hell i didnt see any wires.. is this the same info for a 2000 F150 Supercab? Because my light is on but I'm highly considering pulling the sensor and checking it for 2500 ohms tomorrow..
I have a 98 F-150 ext and I cannot get my abs and brake light to go out. I recently replaced the rabs sensor on top of the rear diff and the rabs module under the dash. Anybody know what my next step should be? Thinking of replacing the little pump thing under the master cylinder. Are there any other components associated with the rabs system I could be checking?
The Black/orange wire is in the kickpanel. remove the plastic and it will be taped there with other wires. Disconnect it and ground the black/orange wire with the ignition in run. The abs light will flash a series of codes. For ex code 4 will be 3 short flashs followed by 1 long one.
Richard
I replaced my vehicle speed sensor on the rear differential last night.
I shopped around, and the least expensive was the motorcraft product
at the Ford dealer parts counter, $22 with tax. Napa was $27 with tax.
Autozone wanted $47.73 with tax, more than twice the price for after market!
Unplugged the negative battery terminal while I did the work. Swapped it
out, let it run for 15 minutes, took it out for a drive. Light is gone, runs alot
better. The old one shows an open circuit. Thanks again guys.
I Unplugged the negative battery terminal while I did the work. Swapped it
out, let it run for 15 minutes, took it out for a drive. Light is gone, runs alot
better. The old one shows an open circuit. Thanks again guys.
Disconnecting the battery has no effect on the ABS computer.
It only turns the light off when the self-test passes and there are no further self-test failures.
the speed sensor is located in the rear differential case. It will be the only item with a wire going to it on your diff case. Make sure you clean around it before removing it so you dont get any dirt into your fluid.
the speed sensor is located in the rear differential case. It will be the only item with a wire going to it on your diff case. Make sure you clean around it before removing it so you dont get any dirt into your fluid.
Richard
Thanks. I replaced the sensor located on the rear differential case and now the ABS light is gone.
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