Hey everyone, I'm having a heck of a time keeping the lug nuts tight on my truck. I have Eagle alloy 102's on it and I have to re-torque the lugs at least once a week. Is there a secret to this? Can you use the mild version of lock tight on them?? I would appreciate any help. Thanks

Fitter

 

Are you using a toque wrench, and applicable pattern?
Have you tried jacking each up and then toque?
Checked calibration on the wrench?

 

Speaking of which... what is the torque spec?

 

i see you have after market wheels, make sure the lugs you are using are the right for the wheel. if the wheel has a concave indention where the lugs meets the wheel you have to use a lug that matches that, if it is flat then you need to use a sholdered lug(one with a flat mating surface). miss matching the lugs can cause the type of problem you are having

 

I tighten mine to 110 ft lbs

 

Use a very small amount of anti-sieze compound on the area where the end of the nut contacts the wheel. Your torque effort is not stretching the wheel stud like it should, otherwise they would not loosen up. I suspect the nut is gouging into wheel and that this friction is what you are mostly reading on the torque wrench.

 

My factory 01 repair manual calls for 155 ftlbs to 165 ftlbs of torque for the factory wheels with the flat washer lug nuts. i routinely torque my aftermarket alloys to 120 ftlbs. good luck!

 

Thanks guy's, I torque them to 150# and the lug nuts are the right ones. I'll try the anti seize trick on the lug nuts to see if that helps. I'll let you all know what happens.

Thanks, Fitter

 

I just want to re-iterate to only use the anti-seize on the face of the lug nut to the wheel. No oil or anti-seize is recommended on the threads themself. Not only could this lead to the lugs coming loose, but the anti-seize would make it difficult to remove the lug nuts in freezing conditions.

 

What we want to do here is clamp the wheel to the hub, period. The torque we apply to the nut needs to be transmitted into a clamping load. If there is gauling between the end of the nut and the wheel, much of the torque we are reading is actually a side load friction. This situation is compounded if the nuts are the large flange type ones. Anti-sieze on the threads will not hurt anything. I have used it on my cars, trucks and travel trailers for 20 years and never had a wheel come off or get loose. The last thing you want is a rusty nut or wheel stud.

 

What we want to do here is clamp the wheel to the hub, period. The torque we apply to the nut needs to be transmitted into a clamping load. If there is gauling between the end of the nut and the wheel, much of the torque we are reading is actually a side load friction. This situation is compounded if the nuts are the large flange type ones. Anti-sieze on the threads will not hurt anything. I have used it on my cars, trucks and travel trailers for 20 years and never had a wheel come off or get loose. The last thing you want is a rusty nut or wheel stud.