I was thinking about swapping my cab from one frame to another. I have a little bit of an idea of where to start but I am not real sure. I was wondering if someone can explain what all is needed to do it and about how long will it take? When i take my cab will my dash unit and everything come as a lump sum?

 

Start by just looking at what bolts to what. Start by looking under the truck at the frame.

 

I'm no expert, but here's what I found when I did a body lift on my 78 f150 reg. cab.

There were 4 body mount bolts. Two in front at the bottom of the firewall (you have to remove the egg shaped cover plate to get at them), and two on the floor behind the seat under the carpet. Mine were so rusted, I used a long breaker bar to snap them off.

All of the wiring harnesses that come out of the firewall. Be sure to mark them with tape so you know where they go later.

Speedo cable - can be disconnected from either end but the tranny/t-case end would be easier.

Brake lines - disconnecting them from the master cyl. would be easiest.

Heater hoses - simple enough

Steering column - I removed just the shaft between the column and the gearbox.

Shifter linkage (if it's an auto).

Clutch linkage (if it's manual)

4x4 shifter (if equiped) - all you really need to do is remove the boot, but I'd bemove the shifter itself to make life easier.

Accelerator linkage - simple enough.

If you're gonna do this, I'm assuming you'll be replacing the body mount bushings. If that's the case, I'd remove the front clip as well and replace the rad. support bushings too. Removing the clip will make removing the cab a LOT easier as far as getting at all the bolts & stuff. I still have my bolt-by-bolt disassembly notes for the front clip if you're interested.

I'm sure I missed something, but this should get you started.

Good luck.

Kevin K.

 

thanks man

 

i have to disagree about disconnecting the lines from the master. i think its easier to just take the master off the booster. its still two bolts but you dont have to play with bleeding the brakes

 

Yeah, I guess I'd agree there. When I lifted mine, I didn't have to disconnect anything for the brakes. I was just thinking of the most easily accessed connection points.

Kevin K.

 

i would also get 2 friends and lift the front clip off as one piece . i did it that way and it took 3 hours for me and a buddy to get front clip off and cab totally ready to lift off. and that was just looking, thinking and then doing. no previous experience. when we took apart the doner truck it took less than 2 hours. i also kept brakelines attached. make sure you label EVERYTHING that you disconect. also if you have a digital camera take some pictures. i was a little nervous at first but things are actually very simple. Good luck

 

If you gotta ask you should leave it alone

 

To pick the cab off the donor to put on your truck,what I did was use a 10ft strap,and ran it threw the door's,and hooked the 2 end's at the middle of the cab on the roof,and used my backhoe to lift the cab of,and then roll one chassis out,and roll in the good one.If you look in my gallery I have some pic.'s from my supercab swap.This is if you have no access to a post lift.Leaving the M/S hooked up is a good idea as already been exsplaned.It's actually pretty easy to swap the cab's.Ive done several.I also left almost all wireing hooked up,and just unbolt the siliniod,voltage regulator,window washer tank,ignition mod.,and set them or tie them to the mill.this way you are useing all the part's you have been using.You know what work's,and doesn't befor the swap.just thought I'd share some of my fun,and the way I did them.I'm asuming your taking the front clip off,and it make's it much easyer.

 

were do you learn from that? it is a realy simple swap if done right and researched a bit

 

thanks for all the help guys

 

Where can he get some body mount bushings? Just trying to help him cover all bases. Well that and I need some for my cab swap comin up

 

I am glad some one asked about cab removal. I have a 77 High Boy that needs rust repair and I will have to remove the cab soon. I have access to a rust free cab for some $ and I will decide whether to replace the cab or repair the rust once the cab has been removed.

How much dose a cab weigh? Whats the best way to work on it once it is out?

Thanks,
Dave

 

That is a bad attitude, guy's come here all the time trying to learn so they can save some $$$$ or when somebody ask's who did your truck you got the honor to say I did it myself!!


Doing a cab swap is a very easy job if you have the right tool's and any kind of knowledge, as said take plenty of picture's as it will help with reassembly

the cab itself weigh's close to 4 or 500 pound's I would guess

 

Thanks for telling me how much a cab weighs. Like I said I have a 77 High Boy with air conditioning set up. The cab I am thinking about using to replace it is from a 78 F-350 without air. I have noticed a difference. I also have the gas tank behind the seat in the 77 and the 78 dose not have this. Is it worth repairing my 77 cab or is it worth replaceing with the 78 cab? Can these differences be over come?

Thanks,
Dave