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Old May 11, 2004 | 09:02 PM
  #46  
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I'm glad you got her going Rusty! Keep us informed on how it goes. You could be a big help to the next guy who is willing to step into the world of injection with the FE.
 
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Old May 11, 2004 | 09:10 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Ratsmoker
I'm glad you got her going Rusty! Keep us informed on how it goes. You could be a big help to the next guy who is willing to step into the world of injection with the FE.
I think I met up with you on a V8 Ranger forum a few years ago. Or maybe a FE forum.
 
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Old May 13, 2004 | 10:00 PM
  #48  
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For the fuel pump and return lines, first I used the supplied block off plate to block off the mechanical pump hole. It fit perfectly, even though the book said it was for chebby / chrysler engines. I mounted the fuel pump on the frame right under the gas tank, by where the fuel line outlet is. I utilized the existing steel fuel line, and ran rubber fuel injection hose from that up to the TBI. For the return line, I just paralleled the first line. I drilled a interference hole in the rubber fuel neck and stuck it in. It doesn't leak.

I loaded a base map for a SBC 350. It seems to be running lean on that; I still have some tuning to do.

I'd be happy to help anyone else who decides to upgrade to TBI. (over the internet of course )
 
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Old May 13, 2004 | 10:18 PM
  #49  
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Holley makes a loc out for the FE dist. Part No. 881-120. It locks the mech and vac advance. so that you can use a computer to controll the timeing. I will be using it with a timing computer from MSD.
 
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Old May 13, 2004 | 10:25 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by rusty70f100
For the return line, I just paralleled the first line. I drilled a interference hole in the rubber fuel neck and stuck it in. It doesn't leak.
This one makes me real nervous. In time, or in an accident, it could start to leak or even spew. Please consider redesigning this part of it.
 
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Old May 13, 2004 | 10:50 PM
  #51  
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I dont see it as any less safe than the original rubber filler neck. Dont worry; I have it secured. It's a VERY tight interference fit, and it's glued in. It isn't going anywhere. The instructions even say to run it in there or at the fuel level sender.
 
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Old May 14, 2004 | 03:47 AM
  #52  
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Kurt...Ya got that thing dialed in yet??? I dont see any Chi town Burnouts

in front of my house yet? Russ
 
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Old May 14, 2004 | 11:24 AM
  #53  
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Bah. Havent looked at it in a couple days. Still got exhaust gremlins to work out. I might go out there today and see what I can do. What I really need to do is have one of my friends from up to the college drive the thing while I tune it. It would make tuning 10x faster.
 
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Old May 15, 2004 | 02:46 PM
  #54  
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Ran into my first tuning problem. The voltage is fluctuating, causing my engine rpms to fluctuate in sync with it. It's quite annoying. Is there any other kind of voltage regulator that will give a constant voltage?
 
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Old May 15, 2004 | 03:31 PM
  #55  
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Kurt your charging system should stay at about 13.8 volts + or - .2 to .4 volts

does your injection system run off of just 12v it should...in that case you would need to run a regulator that will accept 13.8 in and 12v out to keep it constant!

Radio Shack should have something that simple..If indeed the system will only take
a constant voltage...Good Luck ...Russ
 
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Old May 15, 2004 | 03:43 PM
  #56  
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The problem is that it goes from 9.5 volts to 14 volts in a fairly cyclical pattern. What I need is something a little more involved than a simple voltage regulator, I think. I hate to pull the alternator and install a smaller pulley on it, but that may be what it comes to.

The datalogger that comes with the fuel injection shows that it is the voltage that is causing the problem. The voltage fluctuations cause changes in the injector pulse width, which change engine rpm. Rpm drops, so does voltage, and so the computer compensates. Then voltage comes back up, and so on.
 
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Old May 15, 2004 | 04:57 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by rusty70f100
The problem is that it goes from 9.5 volts to 14 volts in a fairly cyclical pattern. What I need is something a little more involved than a simple voltage regulator, I think. I hate to pull the alternator and install a smaller pulley on it, but that may be what it comes to.

The datalogger that comes with the fuel injection shows that it is the voltage that is causing the problem. The voltage fluctuations cause changes in the injector pulse width, which change engine rpm. Rpm drops, so does voltage, and so the computer compensates. Then voltage comes back up, and so on.
Just for an experiment, try stepping up the idle. That would simulate the effect of a smaller pulley. Are you sure your alternator and regulator are working ok?

Also, where is that voltage sourced from? The battery should hold it a little tighter than that.
 
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Old May 15, 2004 | 08:14 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Choctaw Bob
I think I met up with you on a V8 Ranger forum a few years ago. Or maybe a FE forum.

Never been to a ranger site but I do post over at network 54 every once in a while.
 
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Old May 15, 2004 | 08:17 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by rusty70f100
Ran into my first tuning problem. The voltage is fluctuating, causing my engine rpms to fluctuate in sync with it. It's quite annoying. Is there any other kind of voltage regulator that will give a constant voltage?
You might look into one of those high amp alternators with an internal regualtor. I think one off of a tempo will bolt right up from what someone said here. I need to upgrade the alternator on mine too. It doesn't charge at idle very well with the fan running. You can hear the fuel pump bog down at idle. I don't think the stock voltage regualtors were setup for keeping things real steady. Limiting voltage was probably the primary concern.
 
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Old May 15, 2004 | 08:45 PM
  #60  
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Never did answer my question? does it run on 12 volts? or a constant 13.8?

It wont matter if he run a High output alt..the voltage will still drift..

It wont be constant without a regulator in between the power source and the control unit...for the injection system... Russ
 
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