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I own an 89 BII with a 4inch ruff country sus. lift with 31" tires. the passenger side rear axle seal has brocken twice now. the first time i took it to my mechanic and he fixed it for like 140 bucks. is that a fair price? anyways he said it had grooves in the axle, so im thinking about replacing the whole rear end. Is the bearing seal or whatever breaking because it has grooves in axle?
ive done alot or research and am going with a ford explorer rear end, i havent located one yet but i think from like 91 to 94 will fit. My question is, how much is involved in replacing it, is it mainly bolt in. Ive heard you have to get someone to weld on something for the springs to sit on or somthing like that,? is that true? also will my stock driveshaft fit or will i have to replace it? also do all the brake cables just bolt back in????
To do the X swap you have to put the spring purch on th top of the rear end,you will need to relocated the shock brackets on the rear end,the cunck{parts where the gears are}is in a little diffrent location{left to right} so your pinon angle need to be just right.You might need a new DS not real sure on that.The brake lines will bolt right up.The 8.8 rear is a good upgrade and worth the trouble.While you at it get the D35 front end out of an X too.To up grade your front end.
Do the Xplorers always have the D35 up front or is that something extra? DOes anybody know what kinda of trouble it is to do the front end swap?
thx for the replay gray ranger
IF i was to swap front end and rear end from a 91 to 95 explorer into my 89 bII will the gear ratios and all that mess work fine for my tranny etc..?
thx again
I recently talked to a FOrd mechanic and he said that old explorer front and rear ends are wider then bronco II's, Does anybody know the TRUTH behind this? The reason i want to switch them out is b/c my current 89 BII 4x4 passsenger side axle is leaking from the axle bearing, due to grooves in the axle. How hard is it to replace, my mechanic replaced it once already for about 140 bucks or so. I know engines but not much about drive train, is this something easy to replace for a quick fix?
thx in advanced
The front and rear axles are wider on the X then on the BIIs but not much, the front are a direct swap and the rear are not hard to modifie {In above post}.You said that you know engins and you can turn a wrench,then you can do the swap the welding on the rear will not coast you much if you dont know how to weld.{I wish I could weld}
Just make sure that the front and rear gear ratio is the same,and try to use the X springs,they will give your BII a better stance not to menthion better handeling.
How much will it cost you I dont know but it is cheaper the a new ride. Good luck !!
ONE DAY I WELL LEARN TO SPELL!!LOL
I forgot say if you can find a Ranger or another BII you can swap the front axle to yours{just make sure that it has the same gear as your rear.}IMO I would swap the D28 for the D35 and the 7.5 for the 8.8.That is the next mod for my 89 BII!!
Last edited by GrayRanger4x4; May 4, 2004 at 03:18 AM.
I cant decide if i want to swap an older rear end with drum brakes, or fine a newer Xplorer with disc brakes.... i would love to get disk brakes in the rear for my BII, what would i have to modify or do to hook up the disk brakes?
thx again.
If you put disks on the B2, you'll have to swap the master cylinder also. The B2 master cylinder is fine for explorer drums, but not for disks.
The difference in axle width is about 1.5 inches. Not enough to matter. Compare the flange on your B2 driveshaft with the flange on the explorer 8.8. I'm pretty sure that the 8.8 flange is larger - if so, you need to modify the DS to make it work. On the front D35, you can keep the B2 DS, but you need to have it shortened by about 1.5 inches. The Explorer DS won't mate up to the B2 transfer case without some reworking.
If I understand everyone correctly the Dana 28 on the B2 can be easily replaced with a Dana 35 (unbolt old and bolt up new), but you do have to shorten the drive shaft?
If I understand everyone correctly the Dana 28 on the B2 can be easily replaced with a Dana 35 (unbolt old and bolt up new), but you do have to shorten the drive shaft?
Yes, that's right. I've also read that you need to swap the steering linkage along with the D35. Since the D35 is 1.5" wider than the D28, you would have to adjust the stock B2 linkage so the tie rod ends are all the way out. You might as well replace the radius arm bushings while you're in there.
I have a D35 laying on the garage floor waiting to get swapped into my B2, so I've been researching this quite a bit lately. The ranger station has quite a bit of info about this swap in the forums and a little on the tech pages.
my current 89 BII 4x4 passsenger side axle is leaking from the axle bearing, due to grooves in the axle.
You could just replace the axle shaft and the seal on your B2's 7.5 rear. Both are very easy. The process is pretty much this - remove the rear wheel, open the diff cover, drain the gear oil, remove the pinion shaft, push in on the axle shaft, remove the C-clip, slide the axle shaft all the way out. Pull the old seal and replace with a new one (it's a friction fit- pry out the old and drive in the new). Slide in the new (junkyard) axle shaft, replace the C-clip and pinion shaft, clean up the diff cover and reseal it, fill with gear oil. Done. (it sounds more difficult than it really is)
I can't recall if the spider gear comes out when the axle shaft is removed. If so, it's no big deal to remove and replace.
Come to think of it, if you have grooves on the axle shaft, you may need to replace the bearing in the axle tube also. Honestly, I don't know how hard that is since I've never done it. Maybe you should just ignore this post..... or look into the effort involved in replacing the bearing)
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