Need help locating a bellhousing from a 289 to a ford t-18. Currently have a t-10 transmission. Where do I go and what years and model trucks should I look for. It also has a hydrolic clutch linkage.

 

I don't know but have asked the same question on a couple of other boards here. A couple were closed and deleted because the moderator thought it wasn't specific for that category or year truck. What year truck was the question! How Rude!

Hope you find out!

 

why would the T-18 bellhousing be different than any other small block Ford ??
If you are looking for a small block Ford engine to 4 spd bellhousing , the stock unit willl work!
The t-18 shouldn't have a hydrolic clutch. UNless it is a newer model.
If the t-18 does have a hydro clutch than rid of it and find a manulal clutch,!!!My
2 cents.
Ed

 

I just recently installed a hydraulic clutch setup in my 82 bronco. It has the T-18 tranny,but I used a bellhousing from a NP435 equipped truck, it had the hydraulic slave cylinder mounted on the bellhousing ,it worked just fine. I would recommend that you make sure to use a diaphgram type clutch and matching throwout bearing.

 

You don't want to go hydro if you don't have to. If you have a vacume brake diaphram on an EB than it is a pain to mount a clutch master cylinder.
in my opinion.
I don't know but you may have to change the front bearing retainer on the T-18.
It should be easier to convert the tranny to linkage than to find a bellhousing and convert to hydo clutch.

 

Depending on what you're trying to install it in. Any small block equipped early pickup (pre 80) bellhousing should work. The T18 bolts in the same as a 435. Unless you have one of the early 5 bolt 289's.

Jason

 

I agree with using the mechanical clutch setup in the early Bronco, the parts are ridiculosly easy to obtain. Even the factory 3-speed bellhousing will work with the T18 or NP435 , I've never had to change a front bearing retainer though.

 

I'm also interested in the T18 swap for a 71 bronco I purchased. I want to go the cheap route because it's in such rough shape and only want to use it for a trail rig. As of now it has no engine. It does however have a three speed standard shift on the floor with a Hurst shifter and a Dana T-shift 20. My question is can I use the entire drive train from another Ford. Around here mid 80's broncos fetch about $500. I would like a 351 / T-18 combo. Would it just be cheaper and easier to use a New Process 205 or is there an advantage in using the Dana 20? If I keep the Dana 20 what is needed in bolting up the Dana 20 to the T-18?

 

From my experience, heres the deal- a 351w will fit if it was originally a V-8 bronco, use the engine mounts from the big bronco. You will need the short style water pump and pulleys. source them from an early bronco or 69 or older small block ford, alternator and power steering mounting brackets should come from a 69 351w or you can build or modify existing ones depending on your abilities and tools. or just buy them from a Bronco specialty supplier and save some time. Oil pan comes from a 80's style LTD-find at junkyard(302 not the same),ford dealer, or bronco specialty shop. the 351w is taller than 302 so you might need a hood scoop or bubble for clearance depending on your air cleaner selection. I also recommend converting to a cable style throttle linkage-its not hard to do-scrounge something from a 70's LTD if I remember correctly. There are other engine related issues Ive probably forgotten,but those are the big obstacles. As for the tranny and transfer case-have to cut hole in floor for shifter (duh!) and shifter will need to be heated up and bent sharply to clear dash-even if you have body lift.Use early bronco bellhousing and clutch linkage with appropriate clutch and throwout bearing.The aluminum NP208 from a 80's style bronco is just too damn wide to fit in early bronco's, but the iron cased 205 will bolt on in its place-same bolt pattern-same spline count. It's a tight squeeze, but it will fit between frame rails(or so I've read) your rear driveshaft will be shorter than with original dana 20. The dana 20 has some advantages oner the 205-it's got a lower low range (2.46vs1.98 I believe) and its a lot lighter -Do'nt let that fool you, it's still a very stout t-case , really your weak link will be the dana 30 front axle. you can buy adapters to put the 20 on the back of a T18 orNP435 but I,m a cheap *** and built my own years ago- the 2wd NP435 has the correct spline to fit into the 20. You said you wanted to keep it cheap-I dont know about the junkyard prices in your area or your fabrication skills, but those two issues will be the biggest factor in how cheaply you can get it done. If your bottom line is just to get on the trail cheaply, I'd recommend that you just pick up one of those 500$ 80's broncos put a spool in the rear, a skidplate under the aluminum 208, and stick on a set of 34-9.50 swampers(they will fit!) maybe ditch some body parts if it will only be a trail beater. That combo worked for me for quite a while. good luck

 

Thanks Wyld. I already have a full size trail beater a 78 with a 351m, c6, np205, 44 and 9" with limited slip. My 71 (just acquired) needs an engine, I can get one from a 72 EB for $300 (whole truck) but will need a rebuild. I can get a mid 80’s Bronco 351H.O. at a decent price. Just wondering how much more powerful the 351 vs. 302. I would love to put in a 4 speed with granny gear. So if I get a 2wd NP435 are you saying I can bolt up to my current DANA 20. The Bronco was originally a 302 with a 3 speed. It does have the DANA 44 front diff. I think most all 71's are DANA 44 equipped.

 

I've got a bellhousing for a SBF/T-18. Let me check tonight to make sure and send me a PM. I'd probably let it go for 30 bucks, plus shipping.

 

I wont say that the 435 will "bolt up" , like I said, I made my adapter. The splines do fit into the original coupler of the 20. After I made my first one a loooooong time ago, I noticed that one of the Bronco specialty suppliers was selling about the same thing.Theirs was an original 3speed to20 factory adapter that had the tranny mounting pad cut off and a new machined pad welded on in its place. My first one was made entirely from scratch. Apparently I didnt have something quite true enough, because about every 3 years I would shear off the output shaft of the tranny, always in a really bad place too. Finally I decided to do it like the one in the catalog -I cut down the 2wd tailshaft housing to about an inch and welded it to an original adapter with nickel welding rods and some reinforcing pieces. To align everything as best I could, I had the tranny tipped up on it's bellhousing face with the t-case sitting on the output splines. I roughly supported the t-case weight to the best of my judgement and also clocked it to the best of my judgement!!! Thats right, there was NOTHING sophisticated about the way I did it, but apparently my best judgement was pretty good, as this adapter has worked for about 7 years with no problems. If you decide to try this, you need to remember to put the bolts in the tranny tailhousing end before you weld it and leave room in your reinforcing to get wrench in to turn them, also youl need to put some sort of spacer between end of tranny tailshaft and 20 coupler to keep shaft from moving backwards. As far as the 351 vs 302- I prefer the extra torque of the 351 but the 302 will probably work fine if its fresh and with the gearing of the truck tranny- especially if you dont get carried away with tire size. It's really your decision based on the cost of rebuilding the 302 that has all of the right parts to fit vs. the cost and hassle of finding the parts to get the 351 to work. By the way, what kind of shape are these early broncos in (rustwise) that you are finding- you might have to find me a decent one to build into a driver, theres no good ones left around here-even the frames are rusted away. Happy wrenching dude

 

Thanks again Wyld. The 71 has a really solid frame, and the front door post are pretty good. The tub is really bad but the doors, hood, grill, and front fenders are really pretty good. The rear bed, floor, and wheel tubs are pretty much gone. I have found a decent tub in a junk yard that has had the Dana 44 cut off at the frame but the 9" still remains, The Guy told me I could have the whole deal for $200. It has a tailgate and top but all of the glass is missing. It does have a tilt wheel, not sure what it out of though. As far as the 72 sport goes, it a total basket case, I mean you open the front door and the fenders almost fall off of the truck. Never seen anything so rusty, not even a Toyota. The nice thing is that it's a sport with excellent front and rear bumpers, a t-shift20, the 44 and 9" still remain The 302 is still there sans carb, and what i can see the frame is really solid. Its an 18 code axel so it the small bearing. Not many people around here realize what these vehicles can be. They would rather go buy a used wrangler or CJ. I don’t know but it seems this year I have seen more 70's CJ than I can remember. I looked for months and it took begging and pleading to buy the 73 Wagon I have. Early broncos are as rare as hen's teeth around here.

 

I know what you mean, early broncos around here are pretty scarce too. I've dragged home three of them in the past 6 months that are unbelievably rusty, but lots of good mechanicals on them the last one had the auto tranny, power steering and front disk brakes. I saved it from getting crushed- cost me 100$. People around me that arent really into broncos think it's amusing the way I get exited about seeing an old bronco