Cages
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
Or he can widen out that triangle and just connect to the side supports instead of running that cross beam. This will eliminate one piece of tubing and give more room ro get in and out of the back without having to build a support for the support beam. Hmm, something about what I just said makes no sense, but you get the picture. Pull the brown beam out and widen your triangle I guess, bring it down a little farther. If you want I can have Jimmy throw something together for you. 
Okay Pro, I'm really digging the Punisher/black idea now. Kind of a fitting theme for that truck.
Okay Pro, I'm really digging the Punisher/black idea now. Kind of a fitting theme for that truck.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 794
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From: Oregon-Take me wheeling..
I just realized something really funny. you all are looking at my cage backward. hahahah, here, ill make this easier for you:
<<--------------FRONT---------<<
better?? maybe it will make a little more sense for you all.
Idio
<<--------------FRONT---------<<
better?? maybe it will make a little more sense for you all.Idio
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From: Oregon-Take me wheeling..
there, i made the pieces that will be bent BLACK, and the pieces that will straight GRAY
i also labled it for all you out there who were all messed up about it. this should be pretty good.
Idio
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
I guess I should have specified the diameter requirements better when I listed mine at 1.5in dia, my truck only weighs about 2800lbs empty, race weight should only be 3000lbs max thus I am using 1.5in although I probably could have gone 1.75, and would have been a better choice but I am using a little thicker wall than most, and definatly agree with rebocardo on a truck weighing 3500 or more min would be 1.75, and the pics don't really show it but the front, and rear hoops are one piece tied together with 2 frt to rear tie bars welded about 2in inside of the bends.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
You just made me extremely dizzy! Okay, I think I'm getting it now . . . slowly. If your tubing is proper strong I don't know that you'll need the center supports on the front, in your windshield. You'd have to pick this thing up in the air and drop it on the roof to cave in that tube (provided you use heavy enough material).
Monsterbaby's cage is a perfect example, a simple setup but plenty strong.
Monsterbaby's cage is a perfect example, a simple setup but plenty strong.
Last edited by ivanribic; Apr 20, 2004 at 06:58 PM.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
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From: iowa
only major problem I can see right off is take the 2 bars going from the rear hoop, to the rear of the vehicle, and make them straight with NO bends in them because if you ever endo nose first, the front bar hits first those two bars are you support from it folding over backwards , and those bends weaken it in that direction, and the 2 A braces going to the middle won't help as the cross bar will fold up with the outside bars., and you can take the A brace out of the windshield it is unneccessary unless you land upside down directly on a log, and it would probably still fold up as they don't go clear to the frame bracing
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From: Oregon-Take me wheeling..
Originally Posted by cwb
Hey this is turning into the "your cage sucks" thread from Pirate.
X
Xthanks for the tips, ill fix up another drawing tomorrow and post it up. well get this cage looking perfect in no time.
Idio
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From: Oregon-Take me wheeling..
Originally Posted by monsterbaby
only major problem I can see right off is take the 2 bars going from the rear hoop, to the rear of the vehicle, and make them straight with NO bends in them because if you ever endo nose first, the front bar hits first those two bars are you support from it folding over backwards , and those bends weaken it in that direction, and the 2 A braces going to the middle won't help as the cross bar will fold up with the outside bars., and you can take the A brace out of the windshield it is unneccessary unless you land upside down directly on a log, and it would probably still fold up as they don't go clear to the frame bracing
Idio
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
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Not saying anything. There is a cage thread on Pirate where there are some pretty decent cages but a bunch of knuckleheads are knocking all of it and saying they are cage experts. It is a pretty funny thread. I was just joking, though.
Last edited by cwb; Apr 21, 2004 at 09:25 AM.
Senior User
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From: Texas
I agree with rebo
at least 1 3/4x 0.125wall, maybe 2". If you plan on rolling it, your design is not overbuilt.
what is all this talk about "pipe", you need to use tubing.
Dont use the harbor freight "pipe bender". It is not a tubing bender. it flattens out the tubes when you bend it, and weakens it. Thats fine for plumming or building a corral for your horses. you need a decent bender, a pro-tools or jd2. They keep the tube round through the bend, maintaining strength.
tied to the frame is good.
seats mounted to the cage is good.
at least 1 3/4x 0.125wall, maybe 2". If you plan on rolling it, your design is not overbuilt.
what is all this talk about "pipe", you need to use tubing.
Dont use the harbor freight "pipe bender". It is not a tubing bender. it flattens out the tubes when you bend it, and weakens it. Thats fine for plumming or building a corral for your horses. you need a decent bender, a pro-tools or jd2. They keep the tube round through the bend, maintaining strength.
tied to the frame is good.
seats mounted to the cage is good.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
The gray/black is much better and I was looking at it the correct way before, fwiw.
I think you should have a length of tubing at the floor level running front to back tying the rear hoop to the front hoop along the door edges. Also, a bar running right to left along the floor for the front hoop.
As for the diamond pattern on the rear hoop, I might lose that for a simple cross member to remove any tubing around my head. imo (it aint much) I think it is better to have the tube low behind your aluminum/steel seat then high up near your head.
Same with the green cross member that ties into the diamond, I would lower that to a floor point in case it bends or breaks, you do not get it in the back.
That inverted V for the front hoop looks nice and all that, but, from seeing my cousins build roll cages for race cars they run a single tube down the middle of the front hoop to the floor/frame and cut whatever gets in the way (dash radio etc.) out of the way and rarely bend it. Then that gets cross braced left to right behind the dash. The only time it gets bend is when the manual shifter might hit it in a forward gear.
I think you should have a length of tubing at the floor level running front to back tying the rear hoop to the front hoop along the door edges. Also, a bar running right to left along the floor for the front hoop.
As for the diamond pattern on the rear hoop, I might lose that for a simple cross member to remove any tubing around my head. imo (it aint much) I think it is better to have the tube low behind your aluminum/steel seat then high up near your head.
Same with the green cross member that ties into the diamond, I would lower that to a floor point in case it bends or breaks, you do not get it in the back.
That inverted V for the front hoop looks nice and all that, but, from seeing my cousins build roll cages for race cars they run a single tube down the middle of the front hoop to the floor/frame and cut whatever gets in the way (dash radio etc.) out of the way and rarely bend it. Then that gets cross braced left to right behind the dash. The only time it gets bend is when the manual shifter might hit it in a forward gear.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
BTW: Whatever you do, it will be better then what I have in my truck = none.
I have to compromise since I use mine mostly for work and it does not sit high. Mine is being built SQUARE as part of a flat bed since I am adding a ladder rack, and it is a simple cage of 3" x 3/16 channel. Being built as an exterior bed/roll bar. I figure if I roll it and squish the 80 inch wide 5 x 5 x 3/16 away along with the 3"x 3/16 I have other issues to worry about.
I am more concerned about a tree or dead branch falling on it then rolling it.
I know there are a ton of experts out there, though I found this book helpful, but dated:
Metal Fabricators Handbook by Ron and Sue Fournier
HP Books - 709
ISBN 0-89586-870-9
$17.95
I think they also published one on fasteners that is quite good and jibe with what I learned from the Ford MoCo tapes/manuals on fasteners. I just do not have the book handy for the isbn. After reading their book on fasteners I stopped using rivets for anything, but, exterior sheet metal.
I have to compromise since I use mine mostly for work and it does not sit high. Mine is being built SQUARE as part of a flat bed since I am adding a ladder rack, and it is a simple cage of 3" x 3/16 channel. Being built as an exterior bed/roll bar. I figure if I roll it and squish the 80 inch wide 5 x 5 x 3/16 away along with the 3"x 3/16 I have other issues to worry about.
I am more concerned about a tree or dead branch falling on it then rolling it.
I know there are a ton of experts out there, though I found this book helpful, but dated:
Metal Fabricators Handbook by Ron and Sue Fournier
HP Books - 709
ISBN 0-89586-870-9
$17.95
I think they also published one on fasteners that is quite good and jibe with what I learned from the Ford MoCo tapes/manuals on fasteners. I just do not have the book handy for the isbn. After reading their book on fasteners I stopped using rivets for anything, but, exterior sheet metal.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
Okay, I'm crappy with looking at schematics but how is the cage tieing into the frame? It terminates so much higher that the fore and mid points it looks more like its meant to tie into the bed rails which would be bad.
That cage thread is funny over at Pirate, btw. I know what your talking about CWB. Allota of great tech over there but you have to wade through a bunch of "know it alls" who have tucked their heads in where the sun don't shine.
That cage thread is funny over at Pirate, btw. I know what your talking about CWB. Allota of great tech over there but you have to wade through a bunch of "know it alls" who have tucked their heads in where the sun don't shine.