Cages
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Chatsworth, CA
Originally Posted by proeliator
Mostly because guys get carried away. I've seen way too many cages that had a ridiculous amount of tubing. Better to overbuild than under but enoughs enough.
Cool avatar '95. That was actually my original avater at FTE, but when Ken shrunk the avatar size a couple years back I was never able to figure out how to crop it to make it work, so had to change it for the current one. Anyways, made me nostalgic...I loved that avatar, good choice
Cool avatar '95. That was actually my original avater at FTE, but when Ken shrunk the avatar size a couple years back I was never able to figure out how to crop it to make it work, so had to change it for the current one. Anyways, made me nostalgic...I loved that avatar, good choice
Yeah I actually found it on a free avatar site. I couldn't figure out for the life of me how to make one! I guess I'm not that computer literate, heres the link if interested guys. http://www.wafen.net/images/avatars2.html
BTW sweet truck Pro!
Sorry clogging up the thread with useless posts. I'll stop!
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Oregon-Take me wheeling..
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ok, i made this simpler. and yet very safe. the A pillar is really simple. the A in the window is nessecary, i have seen many cages bend there. the B pillar is my own design, i havent seen it anywhere. i wanted to ba able to get into the cargo area, and an X across there would really smash that idea, so i made a diamond shape. it holds just as much trianglulation as an X, but it makes it easier to get back there in case i put a seat there. i put the triangle across the top incase of a corner hit, that way the cage wont fold in that direction. i kept the bar at the bottom on the B pillar because i wanted something to tie my B pillar inot that i know will handle some abuse.
I DO PLAN ON ROLLING THIS
so as you can see, i do not want to die haha.
im going to run it straight through the body into the frame, but keep it removable at the same time. i have a few ideas about doing this that will work awesome. the seat will be attached directly to the cage, so no worries there.
ok, now what kinda of tubing did you make your cages out of? what size? whats the average cost? can i just buy one of those $50 harbor frieght benchtop benders and make it. time is not a problem, money is.
help me out guys.
Idio
[/IMG] ok, i made this simpler. and yet very safe. the A pillar is really simple. the A in the window is nessecary, i have seen many cages bend there. the B pillar is my own design, i havent seen it anywhere. i wanted to ba able to get into the cargo area, and an X across there would really smash that idea, so i made a diamond shape. it holds just as much trianglulation as an X, but it makes it easier to get back there in case i put a seat there. i put the triangle across the top incase of a corner hit, that way the cage wont fold in that direction. i kept the bar at the bottom on the B pillar because i wanted something to tie my B pillar inot that i know will handle some abuse.
I DO PLAN ON ROLLING THIS
so as you can see, i do not want to die haha.
im going to run it straight through the body into the frame, but keep it removable at the same time. i have a few ideas about doing this that will work awesome. the seat will be attached directly to the cage, so no worries there.
ok, now what kinda of tubing did you make your cages out of? what size? whats the average cost? can i just buy one of those $50 harbor frieght benchtop benders and make it. time is not a problem, money is.
help me out guys.
Idio
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
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From: iowa
just an added thing about the tubing benders, I have one of the ones from harbor freight, and it works ok but don't look at the sizes mentioned on the dies you have to use a smaller die than the pipe size ie I used the 1in die to bend 1.-1/2 in tubing, yes you can buy the more expensive models but unless you plan on running a shop it isn't worth it.
Next DOM is the best but you are a little late for buying it, if you can wait awhile or buy regular A1 welded pipe, I went to get some DOM for my cage, and in Feb the stuff was 2.52/ft buy Mar 15 when I went to order it is was over $6/ft, and was going up 25% Apr 1 so is probably over $9/ft buy now., and that cage is goin to take alot of feet of pipe I used 60ft in a 12pt cage that isn't anywhere near that elaborate, and at $6 that is over 360, and goin up, I gues you would have about $900 into yours might as well go chromemoly
Next DOM is the best but you are a little late for buying it, if you can wait awhile or buy regular A1 welded pipe, I went to get some DOM for my cage, and in Feb the stuff was 2.52/ft buy Mar 15 when I went to order it is was over $6/ft, and was going up 25% Apr 1 so is probably over $9/ft buy now., and that cage is goin to take alot of feet of pipe I used 60ft in a 12pt cage that isn't anywhere near that elaborate, and at $6 that is over 360, and goin up, I gues you would have about $900 into yours might as well go chromemoly
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Houston, Texas
Originally Posted by proeliator
Yea, I've been bouncing between olive drab with white stars on the doors and military markings (with little siliouttes of jeeps and ricers on the fenders to indicate "kills").
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,854
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From: Des Moines, Iowa
on that cage where does your A pillars mount to? looks like you stop at the cowl, that should go all the way down to the floor. otherwise thats not doing any good. still think you could simplify in other areas too.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
Originally Posted by JeremyH
Hey.....where's the love. Dont throw us in with those rice burners. Well, you can throw the "woman" jeeps in....the grocery getter and mommy styles.
However,
Its a fullsize thing, you wouldn't understand.
My best friend has a heep...I gotta bust on him constantly too....
Idio: Your rear face has problems there...I know you left it open for cargo access but the top half is well braced with the A beam but in a roll that A beam would direct the shockload to that open parellel beam and collapse the rear end of your cage.
Last edited by proeliator; Apr 20, 2004 at 10:55 AM.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
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From: Senoia, GA
Originally Posted by Idiomaticman
ok, now what kinda of tubing did you make your cages out of? what size? whats the average cost? can i just buy one of those $50 harbor frieght benchtop benders and make it.
as far as materials I suggest THIS place, they have always had reasonable prices although i have NOT bought from them in the past 6 months so I dunno about pricing anymore. but they are great to work with.
-jason-
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Senior User
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From: Oregon-Take me wheeling..
Originally Posted by proeliator
Idio: Your rear face has problems there...I know you left it open for cargo access but the top half is well braced with the A beam but in a roll that A beam would direct the shockload to that open parellel beam and collapse the rear end of your cage.
expand on this a bit, im kinda of confused on what you are saying. if you could, can you take my picture and draw over it what you are saying. that would help a lot.
otherwise, thank you all for the help. keep the tips coming.
Idio
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
here is some pics of my cage it is alot simpler in design than your design but has worked for me in the past so it should work for me in this truck, plus alot lighter, it is made from 1.5 dia .140 wall tubing
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
The reason for using bends and not welding corners together is so the joint does not rip apart on impact, it bends instead. A curved corner will absorb impact and spread it better then a sharp edge.
Almost any roll cage worth anything uses a halo type bend for the main support along with the hoop for the front of the roof.
For a heavy truck using mild steel DOM, an in the cab cage should be 1 3/4 to 2" with a 0.125 wall. Once a vehicle goes much over 4,000 pounds, in cab cages should be 2" x 0.125. There are truck racing books on-line where you can get the rules for roll cages.
On our trucks for the main hoop you can attach it four places with vertical pieces without bends, which makes it pretty strong. One directly to each frame rail, and the end of each hoop leg to an outrigger attached to the frame, either bolted or welded. I prefer both.
On the 67-72s you might have to bend the gas line a bit to fit the out rigger. Then again, if I was worried about rolling my truck, the in the cab tank would be the first thing to go.
Almost any roll cage worth anything uses a halo type bend for the main support along with the hoop for the front of the roof.
For a heavy truck using mild steel DOM, an in the cab cage should be 1 3/4 to 2" with a 0.125 wall. Once a vehicle goes much over 4,000 pounds, in cab cages should be 2" x 0.125. There are truck racing books on-line where you can get the rules for roll cages.
On our trucks for the main hoop you can attach it four places with vertical pieces without bends, which makes it pretty strong. One directly to each frame rail, and the end of each hoop leg to an outrigger attached to the frame, either bolted or welded. I prefer both.
On the 67-72s you might have to bend the gas line a bit to fit the out rigger. Then again, if I was worried about rolling my truck, the in the cab tank would be the first thing to go.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by rebocardo
The reason for using bends and not welding corners together is so the joint does not rip apart on impact, it bends instead. A curved corner will absorb impact and spread it better then a sharp edge.
Almost any roll cage worth anything uses a halo type bend for the main support along with the hoop for the front of the roof.
Almost any roll cage worth anything uses a halo type bend for the main support along with the hoop for the front of the roof.
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From: Oregon-Take me wheeling..
sorry if there was any confusion, the drawing is just a sketch of what it would kind of look like. there will be bends in it, it will look much different that the picture in that manner. ill do a CAD of the cage later today to show you how mice this will look.
***ummmm....this is going im my scout....4500lbs.....hehehe. but we can pretend like its going in an EB ok guys
***
Idio
***ummmm....this is going im my scout....4500lbs.....hehehe. but we can pretend like its going in an EB ok guys
***Idio
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From: Oregon-Take me wheeling..
"roll over will direct load onto this unsupported beam"
ok pro, i see what you are talking about. what do you suggest i do about that?? just gusset it? i havent really thought about that there. good point though.
thanks,
Idio
ok pro, i see what you are talking about. what do you suggest i do about that?? just gusset it? i havent really thought about that there. good point though.
thanks,
Idio
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,110
Likes: 32
From: southwest pa
pro---go with the flat black and punisher skull on the door. thats what i would do if it had been my idea. i'm thinking about painting mine red and since mine is a former firetruck, i'm gonna do it up like the devils firetruck, paint a backwards 666 on the front and stuff. i would kina think that the punisher skull would look cool with gunmetal grey. and after writing this, that sounded like a sarcastic quote. penn state is melting my brain
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
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From: Oregon
I was thinking an arch in the rear to support that beam Idio.
Yea, last year I was going to go olive drab/military but I've seen several of them since...now I'm leaning towards the flatblack/punisher...
Yea, last year I was going to go olive drab/military but I've seen several of them since...now I'm leaning towards the flatblack/punisher...