Carb setup
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From: Eureka, Ca.
Carb setup
I had to set the idle screw pretty far in to get it to idle. My moter runs great when warm. But it is a cold blooded SOB. It doesn't like anychoke and won't idle until it warms up.
What can I do? I think the idle is so high that it is out of the idle circuit. I heard this happens with bigger cams.
What can I do? I think the idle is so high that it is out of the idle circuit. I heard this happens with bigger cams.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Iowa
Refresh my memory, what cam did you use?
Typically, they idle about the best at about 1 turn off the seat of the idle mixture screws. Remember, theres one on each side.
Giving the vacuum advance manifold vacuum instead of timed also helps.
Typically, they idle about the best at about 1 turn off the seat of the idle mixture screws. Remember, theres one on each side.
Giving the vacuum advance manifold vacuum instead of timed also helps.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
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From: Missouri
Here is what I figured out Randy. This is from another post I made.
Originally Posted by Ratsmoker
On a souped up FE the primaries on an out of the box carb need to be opened pretty far to maintain a normal idle RPM. This creates a problem as the primaries are no longer in the idle circuit when the engine is idling. To correct this you can open up the secondaries a little to compensate. There is a little screw on the bottom of the passenger side of the carb that is the stop screw for the secondary blades. You can get to this screw by using a narrow flathead bit and a wrench to turn it. Here is how I set it:
Get the engine to operating temperature. Use the secondary screw to turn the idle up and then lower it back down with the primary idle set screw. Keep doing this until you have the primary screw allowing the primaries to close all the way. Adjust the secondary screw until you are at 500rpm. Now adjust the primary idle screw until you are idling where you want to.
Now that your idle is being controlled by your idle circuit you can now adjust the idle mixture. You will want to start at 1 1/2 turns out and adjust for best vacuum from there. Now set your idle down to where you want it again.
On a really souped up engine you will need to drill small holes in the primary blades but only Scouder may be in this territory.
The choke is a pain in the butt. It takes time and patience to get it working properly. Plastic spacers kinda play havoc on your choke because the carb and choke assembly cool much faster than the engine. Therefore on a semi-warm startup you may be running real rich for a little bit. Since I have adjusted my secondaries this problem has almost disappeared.
Get the engine to operating temperature. Use the secondary screw to turn the idle up and then lower it back down with the primary idle set screw. Keep doing this until you have the primary screw allowing the primaries to close all the way. Adjust the secondary screw until you are at 500rpm. Now adjust the primary idle screw until you are idling where you want to.
Now that your idle is being controlled by your idle circuit you can now adjust the idle mixture. You will want to start at 1 1/2 turns out and adjust for best vacuum from there. Now set your idle down to where you want it again.
On a really souped up engine you will need to drill small holes in the primary blades but only Scouder may be in this territory.
The choke is a pain in the butt. It takes time and patience to get it working properly. Plastic spacers kinda play havoc on your choke because the carb and choke assembly cool much faster than the engine. Therefore on a semi-warm startup you may be running real rich for a little bit. Since I have adjusted my secondaries this problem has almost disappeared.
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I can't find a stop screw for the secondairies on my Edel Perf 750 carb.
I don't think it has one.
I had a friend with a timing light help me with the timing. With the vac adv. disconnected and the initial timing set to 10 BTDC, I get 32-34 degrees total. With the vac hooked to ported, It hi idles and slowly comes down. I will try manifold vac to the dist. set the idle again and see how it runs.
Will this hurt anything considering the vac adv. is meant for ported vac?
I don't think it has one.
I had a friend with a timing light help me with the timing. With the vac adv. disconnected and the initial timing set to 10 BTDC, I get 32-34 degrees total. With the vac hooked to ported, It hi idles and slowly comes down. I will try manifold vac to the dist. set the idle again and see how it runs.
Will this hurt anything considering the vac adv. is meant for ported vac?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Missouri
I'm sorry man. Disreguard the above. I thought you had a holley. You should set your initial timing to at least 15 degrees. Mine runs great at 19BTDC. You want to set it as high as possible without causing excessive starter load. You will also need much less throttle to maintain idle. You will need to limit your total advance though. You will probably find 38 - 40 degrees will work out best. Performance FEs need way more than 10 initial.
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From: Eureka, Ca.
I'm not getting e-mail notifications for my subscribed threads. What's up with that.
Any way I won't be able to recurve my dist anytime soon. So I will just give it a couple more degrees of initial timing. And see what happens.
Any way I won't be able to recurve my dist anytime soon. So I will just give it a couple more degrees of initial timing. And see what happens.
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