Help with 511 balancer assembly quick...
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From: Evanston, WY
Help with 511 balancer assembly quick...
Hey Guys,
I lost my Steve Christ book, and the new one won't be here till tomorrow. In the meantime I am attempting to assemble the front of the crank. I need to confirm that I have the order and positioning of the components correct.
Starting at the front of the block I have it as follows:
Timing chain sprocket, flat side toward block, beveled side out, rests on crank shoulder
Oil slinger, sits inside the bevel of the sprocket, flares outward
Dampener spacer, smaller end in, butts up against the slinger, uses the same keyway as the slinger/sprocket
Dampener, butts against big end of spacer, uses the keyway opposite the one that everything else uses.
Any help would be appreciated.
-Scouder
I lost my Steve Christ book, and the new one won't be here till tomorrow. In the meantime I am attempting to assemble the front of the crank. I need to confirm that I have the order and positioning of the components correct.
Starting at the front of the block I have it as follows:
Timing chain sprocket, flat side toward block, beveled side out, rests on crank shoulder
Oil slinger, sits inside the bevel of the sprocket, flares outward
Dampener spacer, smaller end in, butts up against the slinger, uses the same keyway as the slinger/sprocket
Dampener, butts against big end of spacer, uses the keyway opposite the one that everything else uses.
Any help would be appreciated.
-Scouder
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From: Evanston, WY
Originally Posted by Ratsmoker
You should be able to see the timing mark on the small sprocket.
Disregarding the timing marks, does the beveled side go toward the block, or toward the damper.
Also, the hub on the balancer is about 1 1/4" thick, yet the crank snout only sticks out about 1" past the damper spacer. Is the washer side of the balancer hub supposed to sit flush with the end of the crank snout?
Yes, I will post a pic of the Romac installed hopefully tomorrow. Anything in particular you want to see?
-Scouder
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
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From: Missouri
I don't know about where the beveled side goes. Is it possible you have the cam gear on backwards? That is not right man!
I think the Romac might be a 460 balancer then. The washer should sit flush. There is no problem running a 460 balancer as people do it all the time. You just have to have the spacer shaved down to match. Your pulleys will not line up with the alternator and such if you don't have it flush.
I think the Romac might be a 460 balancer then. The washer should sit flush. There is no problem running a 460 balancer as people do it all the time. You just have to have the spacer shaved down to match. Your pulleys will not line up with the alternator and such if you don't have it flush.
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From: Evanston, WY
Nope. I don't think even I could get the cam gear on backwards! I still have the box for the balancer, so I'll check the part number. I'll also hunt around and find my original to compare the hub thickness.
-Scouder
-Scouder
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Brea CA
Scouder, I'm having a hard time picturing what's happening. The pip marks on the crank and cam sprockets should be facing out so they can be aligned by sight.
On the damper, it will stick out past the crank snout. That way the damper bolt will snug everything together.
On the damper, it will stick out past the crank snout. That way the damper bolt will snug everything together.
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Joined: May 2002
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Originally Posted by BB
That way the damper bolt will snug everything together.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Ohio
The beveled side of the crank gear goes TOWARD the crank. The bevel is there to relief itself from touching the large radius on the front of crank journal. If you try to put flat side down, it will hit the radius and NOT seat fully.
If it does not line up correctly, then something else is wrong.
The balancer will stick out 1/4" or so PAST the end of the crank. Like mentioned, it gives the crank bolt something to compress and not bottom out on the snout.
All else sounds like you have together right.
Using the original bolt to pull the balancer on will result in pulled threads sometimes. It is better to buy a piece of all thread and cut a nice long piece and use a nut to pull it on. You can buy "installers", but that is all that they are. If you cannot get at least 4-5 turns in before you start trying to install dampner, then it will pull the ends threads due to lack of strength.
If it does not line up correctly, then something else is wrong.
The balancer will stick out 1/4" or so PAST the end of the crank. Like mentioned, it gives the crank bolt something to compress and not bottom out on the snout.
All else sounds like you have together right.
Using the original bolt to pull the balancer on will result in pulled threads sometimes. It is better to buy a piece of all thread and cut a nice long piece and use a nut to pull it on. You can buy "installers", but that is all that they are. If you cannot get at least 4-5 turns in before you start trying to install dampner, then it will pull the ends threads due to lack of strength.
Last edited by Freightrain; Apr 16, 2004 at 07:43 AM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Missouri
I need to go check mine now. I swear it is almost flush with the end of the crank. Maybe just enough to get seated with the washer. I have a feeling I am going to come up wrong on this one though.
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From: Evanston, WY
OK. Here's the deal on the timing set. Nothing wrong with it. I put my old 390 stuff on temporarily and sure enough, they didn't line up either. the crank sprocket was sitting .130 too close to the block. I measured my old crank to compare and there it was. The shoulder that the crank sprocket butts against was machined shorter. So, I spent some time at the machine shop today and had them spin up a steel spacer that sits between the crank and the sprocket and all is well.
With that little project out of the way, I was able to degree the cam and put the rest of my head studs in. So tomorrow the engine should be nearly completed. I may even have it far enough to spin up some oil pressure for the first time. 11 more days.
-Scouder
With that little project out of the way, I was able to degree the cam and put the rest of my head studs in. So tomorrow the engine should be nearly completed. I may even have it far enough to spin up some oil pressure for the first time. 11 more days.
-Scouder
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From: Evanston, WY
Originally Posted by Ratsmoker
That is strange man! At least it is figured out. Now your damper is another .130 out?
-Scouder
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