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If I’m bolting together some nice painted parts, won’t a traditional lock washer bite into the metal and tear up the paint, and ultimately provide a nice, healthy breeding ground for rust? (Please keep in mind that I'm in NY) Is there anyway around this problem without using Nylock nuts or something like that? Or am I just being paranoid?
How about a flat washer (with the rounded edges against the paint) under the lock washer? Use cad plated or stainless. I think 'fenders can set you up with the stainless stuff.
I thought that for a lock washer to work properly, it had to bite directly into the part it was holding together. In theory, couldn't the (flat washer/lock washer/nut) assembly back themselves off as a whole unit?
When you say lockwasher, are you referring to the split-ring type or the windmill-looking units with the multiple points? With the pointie units, I believe that you are correct; you should not use a washer. I use a flat washer, then the split-ring lock washer, then the nut. It works great and doesn't cut into the paint. Good luck, John
Ny-locks are great. so is loc-tite and flat washers..
you could also use your washer (split or fan-like) and add a touch of moly cote or copa-slip, it will protect to a small degree ....but not for ages!
Last edited by vrongpeis; Apr 15, 2004 at 03:13 PM.
When I had my engine rebuilt I had chrome valve covers put on. The mechanic used a flat washer under the lock washer when he bolted the covers to the heads. That was over two years ago and it's still tight.
Where is Earl when you need him!
Engineers can get into hot debates about whether lock washers are really effective anyway versus plain ol proper torque. (I had the same concern about rust start points when putting all the sheetmetal type screws in around the headlights). Keep it off the salty roads and none of this will be that important.
PS a chebby 'friend' sez a "Mercury is nothing but a Ford with lock washers."
My painter recommended flat nylon washers against any painted surface. I might try this with stainless bolts, nuts, flat washers and lock washers. My wife thinks I am **** anyway, so what have I got to lose.
svoom,
I think the principle of the split washer is to act as a small spring, and provide a certain amount of "pre-loaded compression" between the clamping surfaces of the bolt and the nut. The washer does not need to "bite" or "grip" the surface of the bolt joint to prevent rotation. If you ever remove a split washer and it is flat, throw it away, as it is no longer doing it's job.
Ranger Pat,
A nylon washer is prone to "compression set" over time and would require some degree of maintenance. I agree that it would protect the paint for awhile, but if it compresses and the tension is relieved from the fastener, the joint becomes loose and the painted parts start to rub against each other. I'd like to hear if anyone has used this solution and it worked for the long term.
Good Luck!
One word of caution if you are not aware: SS nuts on SS bolts need a lubricant on the threads to prevent galling. The threads will go away as you tighten them without the lube. Good luck, John
Simple solution to your delimna(sp) Use lock nuts on a flat washer. They will not back off and are will not damage the paint and they look good to boot. They come in any metal including brass or stainless so you should be able to find them Like you I do not like nylon lock nuts. They do come loose and they are not strong enough. Ed
They make something called a belleville lock warshers. It is a flat warsher in that is belleved and is a spring with the sherraed on one side to hold the nut. I see them used on ford new hollond skidsteers. You can find them at
mc. mastercarr
If you want to go stainless, Bisco of Florida sells SS lock nuts. The cost is less than zinc plated at the hardware store. Much less! You can find them on the web.
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