1997 F150 Charging Problem
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1997 F150 Charging Problem
Help, My Battery Goes Dead When I Am Driving The Truck. It Is A New Battery(put Two In) And A New Alternator. How Can I Check The System To Determine What Is Draining The Battery? It Is A 4.6 Engine.
Thks Wayne
Thks Wayne
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From: Virginia
Take a voltmeter and read the voltage at the battery with the truck off. Then start the truck and read the voltage again. The voltage should be higher with the truck running.
If it's the same with very little change(might even be a little lower), you are not charging the battery. The first thing I would check is a fusible link which should be located along the heavy wire leaving the alternator. It may be burned open.
If it's the same with very little change(might even be a little lower), you are not charging the battery. The first thing I would check is a fusible link which should be located along the heavy wire leaving the alternator. It may be burned open.
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dave
i charged the battery for 30 min. got reading of 11.98 v , i started truck it went to 11.54 and was dropping. before i did this, i took + cable off battery and ran a test from ground to cable and i was getting a reading of .02 v. I also used a light from the + battery cable off the battery to the positive side of the battery and the light did not light up which i assume there is not a drain on the system.
you said to check the fuseable link, is this the one that is bolted to the alternator?
it runs to a connection(block) on the firewall that is separted by a black something of another to another connection that another cable feeds off. Is the fuseable link i'm supposed to check in this cable? This is a big red wire from the alternator. I'm asuming the other conector to the alternator that plugs in is coming from the switch curcuit.
pls advise
thks for your help
wayne
i charged the battery for 30 min. got reading of 11.98 v , i started truck it went to 11.54 and was dropping. before i did this, i took + cable off battery and ran a test from ground to cable and i was getting a reading of .02 v. I also used a light from the + battery cable off the battery to the positive side of the battery and the light did not light up which i assume there is not a drain on the system.
you said to check the fuseable link, is this the one that is bolted to the alternator?
it runs to a connection(block) on the firewall that is separted by a black something of another to another connection that another cable feeds off. Is the fuseable link i'm supposed to check in this cable? This is a big red wire from the alternator. I'm asuming the other conector to the alternator that plugs in is coming from the switch curcuit.
pls advise
thks for your help
wayne
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The battery cable runs from the positive battery post to the mega fuse block. It attaches to one end of a 175AMP mega fuse in that block. The other side of the mega fuse is where the main battery feed to the alternator attaches. You need to check that voltage passes through that meag fuse and you get 12V on the main lead at the alternator.
Also in the same area of the mega fuse block is a small black cover, under which there is a mini fuse, 20 amp which is inline to the orange and light blue wire which goes to the voltage regulator. Pop open that cover and test the 20 amp fuse and ensure it is not blown. A bad alternator would have likely blown it, and if there is no power going to that wire the new alternator will not charge.
Also in the same area of the mega fuse block is a small black cover, under which there is a mini fuse, 20 amp which is inline to the orange and light blue wire which goes to the voltage regulator. Pop open that cover and test the 20 amp fuse and ensure it is not blown. A bad alternator would have likely blown it, and if there is no power going to that wire the new alternator will not charge.
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You will need to charge your battery overnight with the 10 AMP charger to get a decent charge on the battery. A typical wet cell battery will have 12.6v showing at a 100% state of charge or 12.2 at a 50% state of charge. After you have achieved a decent state of charge on the battery, you should perform a load test to verify the batteries performance. If you do not have a load tester, go to your local Autozone or other auto store and they should test it for free.
Regarding your vehicles voltage regulation, reading it at the battery with the engine running it should be in the range of 13.6 to 14.6 if your alt/voltage reg. are functioning as they should. Hopefully these things will help you narrow down your search if you dont have a blown fuse. Good hunting!
Regarding your vehicles voltage regulation, reading it at the battery with the engine running it should be in the range of 13.6 to 14.6 if your alt/voltage reg. are functioning as they should. Hopefully these things will help you narrow down your search if you dont have a blown fuse. Good hunting!
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From: Virginia
It's obvious from your second post that the battery is not being charged by the truck. Concentrate on HomerWinzlow's post about the fuses.
The older trucks had the fusible link. The newer trucks must be different and HomerWinzlow knows alot more about the newer trucks. It's the same concept. If the main fuse is blown, the alternator is not even connected electrically to the truck at all. I also didn't know they started fusing the reg circuit. So check what he said about that too.
The older trucks had the fusible link. The newer trucks must be different and HomerWinzlow knows alot more about the newer trucks. It's the same concept. If the main fuse is blown, the alternator is not even connected electrically to the truck at all. I also didn't know they started fusing the reg circuit. So check what he said about that too.
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I Checked The 20 Amp Fuse Going To The Regulator And It Is Not Blown- There Is Voltage Going Thru The Fuse. I Noticed The Serpentene Belt Has Been Frayed And Is About Half The Size It Is Supposed To Be On The Pulley.
Could This Cause The Alternator Not To Turn As Fast As It's Supposed To?
Could This Cause The Alternator Not To Turn As Fast As It's Supposed To?
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you'll need to replace that belt to be sure that you are turning your alternator. Be sure to charge your battery as I mentioned before, you can hurt it if it's left in a a state of discharge.
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Definitely need to replace the belt. You might have snagged it on the bolt stud protruding from the block.. common mistake. You should have a belt routing guide on one of the labels under the hood. Be sure to follow the routing properly or you could even end up with and alternator running backwards.
Ok, now with the key on you should have voltage to the large post on the alternator with the main power feed going to it, and to the orange and light blue wire and the light green and red leads on the voltage regulator connector with the connector disconnected. Make sure the regulator connector is fully seated after verifying this and no pins are backed out. If all conditions have been met your new alternator may be bad if it still wont charge. Ive seen brand new ones out of the box that were bad. You havent indicated whether your battery light illuminates while running either.
Ok, now with the key on you should have voltage to the large post on the alternator with the main power feed going to it, and to the orange and light blue wire and the light green and red leads on the voltage regulator connector with the connector disconnected. Make sure the regulator connector is fully seated after verifying this and no pins are backed out. If all conditions have been met your new alternator may be bad if it still wont charge. Ive seen brand new ones out of the box that were bad. You havent indicated whether your battery light illuminates while running either.
Last edited by HomerWinzlow; Apr 14, 2004 at 06:01 PM.
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