EGR valve connection
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Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Spokane WA
EGR valve connection
engine is a 460 in a 73 F100 2wd
All the vacuum diagrams under the hood are long gone and I'd like to hook up the EGR so it functions.
I know it can't be hooked up to full manifold vacuum or it won't idle, but what should it hook up to? is there a coolant tempature switch that turns off vacuum until the engine reaches operating temp, or does the EGR work when cold too?
hey, its 2004, might be time to learn about this emissions stuff.
All the vacuum diagrams under the hood are long gone and I'd like to hook up the EGR so it functions.
I know it can't be hooked up to full manifold vacuum or it won't idle, but what should it hook up to? is there a coolant tempature switch that turns off vacuum until the engine reaches operating temp, or does the EGR work when cold too?
hey, its 2004, might be time to learn about this emissions stuff.
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From: alaska
this may not help much , but i dont think you need that and i dont think that truck came with a 460, egr stands for exhuast gas recirculation , which means you will need a tube running from your exhuast to the egr and then to your intake, it also involves a cat, which also didnt come on that truck so it will have something to do besides just give your engine a major vacum leak. if the engine is from a year that required those items to run right , as in a feedback carb or efi, you will need to add all of them for it to work, id be real tempted to make it run to 73 specs and avoid the expense,bob
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From: Addison,Texas
There isn't a 460 listing for 73 or 74. There are several for 75 all for 250s.
However, assuming EGR, and a single-port spark advance vacuum canister, then it's carb EGR port --> two-port ported vacuum switch (probably around 95 degrees or so) --> check valve --> EGR. Other side: spark port --> top connector, three-port ported vacuum switch (for overheat, so it's like 245 degrees) --> middle connector --> spark delay valve (maybe) --> advance can: bottom connector --> manifold vacuum.
There's some extra plumbing involved in having a cold-temperature vacuum solenoid and for 75 a venturi vacuum amplifier (not needed with an EGR port).
ash
['I'm assuming you don't have an exhaust heat control valve or an air pump+bypass valve.']
However, assuming EGR, and a single-port spark advance vacuum canister, then it's carb EGR port --> two-port ported vacuum switch (probably around 95 degrees or so) --> check valve --> EGR. Other side: spark port --> top connector, three-port ported vacuum switch (for overheat, so it's like 245 degrees) --> middle connector --> spark delay valve (maybe) --> advance can: bottom connector --> manifold vacuum.
There's some extra plumbing involved in having a cold-temperature vacuum solenoid and for 75 a venturi vacuum amplifier (not needed with an EGR port).
ash
['I'm assuming you don't have an exhaust heat control valve or an air pump+bypass valve.']
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
With an EGR you can make longer pulls on a lower grade of gas with a greater margin of safety, or drop from 89 to 87 octane safely. You want that hooked to ported vacuum, so it comes on under load conditions.
I am trying to set up an EGR for my truck, but there is no provision for it on the intake. It would be nice to not have to run premium right now.
I am trying to set up an EGR for my truck, but there is no provision for it on the intake. It would be nice to not have to run premium right now.
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From: Spokane WA
Originally Posted by bob arrington
this may not help much , but i dont think you need that and i dont think that truck came with a 460, egr stands for exhuast gas recirculation , which means you will need a tube running from your exhuast to the egr and then to your intake, it also involves a cat, which also didnt come on that truck so it will have something to do besides just give your engine a major vacum leak. if the engine is from a year that required those items to run right , as in a feedback carb or efi, you will need to add all of them for it to work, id be real tempted to make it run to 73 specs and avoid the expense,bob
cars had ERG valves long before feedback carbs.
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From: Spokane WA
Originally Posted by Ford_Six
With an EGR you can make longer pulls on a lower grade of gas with a greater margin of safety, or drop from 89 to 87 octane safely. You want that hooked to ported vacuum, so it comes on under load conditions.
ashvalentine do you have part #'s or sorces for those tampature vacuum switches?
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From: alaska
you didnt give the year of your engine , and i was basing my statement on the possibility that it was a later model feed back or efi version.which is why i suggested running it to the specs of your truck year ,and 'ford six', are you just looking for the temp switch location,? a later year thermostate housing with the switch mounted on it would work ,and i saw a guy drill and tap his minifold for the fitting ,years ago , not recomending it though,but it did work, bob
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From: Addison,Texas
ported vac, thats what I thought.
ashvalentine do you have part #'s or sorces for those tampature vacuum switches?
ashvalentine do you have part #'s or sorces for those tampature vacuum switches?
I said check valve up there. Scratch that. Make that a spark delay valve. (They used a check valve in two of them in '73, I'm not sure why. It would tend to hold the EGR open constantly. Bad.) For that I do have a MOT number - DY-139A (Black/Brown). That one will delay full vacuum for 1 to 3 seconds. For a 3 to 9 second delay DY-135 (Black/White). Either will buffer out any spikes.
I'm cross-ref'ing this with a '79 light-duty 460. That one uses the same setup (plus AIR pump, purge cannisters, etc.) It uses a backpressure transducer EGR valve. Those shut down at idle or full/heavy load but are otherwise open.
D8TE-9D448-JA/MOT CX-1226. You need the right spacer plate for that.
Careful testing and tweaking recommended. HTH.
ash
['Milage may vary.']
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From: The Big, Oregon
What I was referring to was the fact that my Offenhauser intake doesn't have a place to put the EGR valve. I thought about machining a pad on it, then drilling the hole for the EGR, but now I am trying to find a "stand alone" valve, that doesn't have to be mated to the intake.
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From: Spokane WA
fordsix. as far as placing the valve off or the intake, this is for a 6cyl with a offy non-egr 4brl intake.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/egrpage1.php
https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/egrpage1.php
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Postmaster
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From: Spokane WA
I was able to use those borg warner #'s to get the switches. I have the EGR hooked up and surprize, it runs about 5 degrees cooler and i managed to get rid of the light pinging that was there on steep hills
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