Wait just go down to Autozone and have them scan it (for free) to make sure

 

I am going to go tomorrow to have schucks (checker, kragen what ever they call it) and they said they would scan it. The have a fuel injection guru that can find out what the problem is. thanks for your help. I wll let you know how it turns out.

thanks

 

I am receiving a code 133 from my 1994 F350 4x4. 460 Engine
It runs ok, then the check engine light comes on and it then runs rough, Extremely rough. It blows black smoke (raw gas) . Occassionally it will smooth out(check engine light goes out). Got worse to the point it will not run.
I too, could not locate a code 133 in all the sources i referenced.
Hre is what i have done
I replaced the air charge sensor, then the air idle solenoid, then tps.
It acctually ran ok for a day. Next day same thing.
After eliminating the relays as a problem, i suspect fuel delivery problem.
Most likely the EEC is bad.
i may replace the MAP and oil pressure unit first.

To be continued,

 

i posted earlier about my experiences with the code 133

my code scanner pumped out a code 133 well according to my book this came back to a slow responding o2 sensor BUT
in further investigation with my haynes manual it said the code 133 corresponded with the exhaust gas reciculation system and i looked and had a cracked check valve. i replaced the valve and it went away look at an earlie post i posted called "looking for sensor location" as it was not the o2 sensors and was this check valve. check valve was 18.00 at napa vs about 85 bucks for 2 o2 sensors hopefully this helps
another noticable item is IF your truck seems noticably louder (especially on acceleration) like an exhaust leak its the check valve. hopefully this helps as i went through this same thing this past week

good luck

 

yup,
would you further discuss the check valve . What is a "check Valve" and where is it located?
Thanks
Brad

 

ok i got a 1996 f150 4x4 5.o 5 speed. im a shade-tree machanic so sorry for all the non-professional terms i use, as its hard for me to describe.

1. turn engine OFF

2. you just opened you hood and are looking at the motor, well look at the intake manifold. (seriously) climb into the engine bay and look behind it. make sure engine is off before you climb in.

2. you will see 1 rubber hose coming from each side of the manifold coming to a tee that goes down to what is called a "check valve" . it sits on a long metal tube that goes down. chances are it will look brown and rusty as mine was. its screws on the metal tube. the rubber tee that connects to it is not held on with a pipe clamp but one of those permenent metal bands that will have to be cut off to get the rubber hose off. when you replace it just use a pipe clamp ( thats what it said in the parts box with the new one)

3 now that you located it you feel around to see if it is cracked/ or broken( mine was completely rusted through and in 2 pieces thats what had me stumped trying to figure out what it was)

4. (this is better with 2 people prefferedly one with long arms) with engine running feel for a leak around the check valve, if you have a leak or its broken if you put your hand over the cracks or broken part the exhaust noise will get alot quieter. if you got long arms and stand near the drivers side, close to the hood springs you can reach it.

5. you will need a cresent wrench to get it off the tube, and a pair or those flat-type wire cutter tools to cut that permenent clamp. it took about 15 mins to do as i had to do it in the rain.

hopefully this helps if you need better descriptions feel free to ask im on here every day. its not that hard, just hard to describe. if this sounds like your problem go to napa (other places should be able to cross reference it also)and ask to cross reference fomoco part number "cx-1327" once you see this part you will know what i mean
good luck

 

Well, Checker auto parts hooked up their code reader to it and it came back with no codes. we then looked at the check engine light by having it give the codes from fordfuelinjection.com and still got what he thought was a 133. I am going to check the check valve as suggested and keep you posted.

thanks for the help between all of us we will get it fixed!!

Thanks again

 

Good news!
I was able to fix my f350.
As you know i too was receiving a code 133.
As the motor ran rougher, (with the black smoke billowing), i noticed that the fuel pump relay was constantly "clicking".
As i would turn on the ignition, the fuel pump would power up and continue to run. It should not do this, but power up and run for a brief moment(1-2 seconds).
A fuel pressure gauge showed that as the truck would run rough, the fuel pressure would drop off.
So i turned to chapter4 section 8 of my old trusty Haynes manual. "operantional checks" paragraph 7. sub paragraph b."On 7.5L non FI with Hot Fuel option, locate the Oil Pressure switch on the engine , and disconnect the electrical connector. Jumper both red/yellow wires together at the electrcal connector.Turn the ignition key to the RUN position. Now the pump noise shopuld be constant"
Since mine was running constantly without the jumper, thn the oil pressure switch MUST be bad.
I replaced with a new unit from NAPA ($9.85)and now my gas guzzler is once again an operational gas guzzler.
I do hope this is of help to you adrianlovessnow. Thank you to all who shared their knowledge.

Brad(Lowrange)
ps... an oil pressure switch......who would have "thunk" it.