So you are saying that you judge how good a disposable oil filter is by how long it will last? Its a hell of a lot easier to change a good filter within the vehicle manufacturers specs than dispose of engines so I would say that it is part of the point. One of my rigs has recomended change interval of 7500 miles or less with a 120,000 mile warranty. I use synthetic oil and Mobil 1 filter and change it between 5 and 6000 miles. My old Bronco and F250 get dino oil and Motorcraft filter and changed at 3000-4000 mile intervals.

The big question, is the Amsoil filter rated? The Amsoil oil isn't!

 

sorry about the Amsoil comment(just tired of hearing how 'good' they are) for you info Baldwin/Hasting filter are made by a company named CLARCOR in Kearney, Nebraska.

 

I guess noone want to answer my question. The logic of a good filter lasting longer simply doesn't make any sense. A good filter should need to be changed sooner if it filters better.

 

No I judge the filter on how long it lasts doing a great job and Amsoil passes the test.It's a good filter that I know does it's job easily for the 7000 miles I leave it in.
You pay $10+ for a Mobil 1.How many miles would that filter give you?
Mention an Amsoil product on this board and watch out!
I don't use their oil but do use their grease.Kill me!

 

And the big answer WHO CARES.

I have read enough reviews on AMS to make my own decision, thanks, I use it and love it, period. I started this thread to find out who makes their filters and what their quality level is, not to argue about their oil.

Respectfully, lets stop arguing about their oil, i got the info I was after and appreciate the input, time to let this thread die

 

I believe "Who Cares" is a question, not an answer.....

If your warranty is voided due to using a non API certified oil, or going beyond the manufacturer's oil change inerval,
YOU will care......

 

Who cares?

People who don't know it isn't API certified
People with a warranty to protect
Ford

 

The same as an Amsoil, less than 7500 because if I go over that I void the warranty.

 

I do 7000 miles on a filter.
I feel confident with an Amsoil filter because they advertise their filter can go 12500 miles.
Nobody else says that.
The test above shows the filter does a great job at 6350 miles.

 

im sick of arguing about API I could care less what the american petroleum institute says.

And I dont have a warranty to protect, not that mazda would know what kind of oil I put in it if I had an unrelated problem anyway, they arent going to do an oil analysis to replace a faulty control arm for example (or whatever example you wanna come up with)....and if it were a problem that oil was related I could just drain it and put something else in before taking it to the dealer...but It isnt an issue anyway, thanks though

So one more time.....WHO CARES about API, not me, and apparently not AMS, who doesnt see the need to PAY API to have their certification label on their bottles. period, can we PLEASE drop this?

 

Icicle, the reason these points are raised are for those reading the thread who have a warranty and might be concerned about keeping it. Draining Amsoil and refilling with something else for warranty work, in essence lieing, is something that I personally would not do. It's interesting that this was brought up. There was an owner in the 6.0 PSD forum that had Amsoil in his truck and had an oil leak. Ford told him to put in the correct oil and wouldn't consider fixing the problem until he did.

As long as Amsoil doesn't have API certification on most of their oils this issue can't be dropped and people should be aware of it. That's what is so great about this site, you can get all the information, not just from one side. I don't think anyone is trying to bash your opinion, just raise all the points in an open discussion. If you're not under warranty there's no problem anyway. My truck is well out of warranty and I wouldn't mod it unless I was out of warranty.

 

I agree, and dont have a problem with productive insightful conversation. Its just starting to get redundant. And I dont have a problem lying to them in a warranty situation because they are going to try EVERYTHING they can to get out of it, i.e. the story you just told about the oil leak AMS is gonna leak but something else isnt and its conveinent to blame it on the oil instead of fixing the problem, even if synthetic oil, or that specific weight of it is too thin, A motor should not leak oil period. The fact that it had amsoil in it is a conveinent excuse in this case I believe.

But I agree with your point, and dont have a problem with the points being raised, I just ahve a problem with arguing about it because my or someone elses view differs from person B's.

Its all good over at this end.

 

I was stating my point from the vehicle manufactures oil change interval. The oil filter is a disposable item.

 

When a car manufacturer specifies 5,000 or 7,500 or 10,000 mile oil changes why do they not recommend a fancy high $$$ filter? I believe the answer is simple. If automaker X recommends 10,000 mile oil changes then the regular Purolator, Bosh, Champion filter can handle the miles just fine. Nullifying any need to spend high $$$ on a fancy filter.

 

So you would feel comfortable going 10000 miles with a generic Group IV gas station filter or a bad reviewed filter like these?


Filters To Avoid
The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.



Fram Extra Guard
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.



Fram Double Guard
Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure relief valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.



Penzoil
This filter is a Fram! It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version.



Quaker State
This is another Fram Extra Guard that I have seen at K-mart. It used to be a Purolator, but Quaker State is now owned/controlled by Penzoil...