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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

2001 Ranger marker light/power locks

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Old Apr 7, 2004 | 09:38 AM
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2001 Ranger marker light/power locks

I need to replace the front marker light and driver side power lock solenoid on my 2001 Ranger XLT.

Anyone have the procedure (otherwise I am afraid I will tear some stuff up). I want to get the DVD service manual, but I don't have DVD on my PC yet.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2004 | 10:11 AM
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Well, I spent the last several minutes digging around in my service manual, and I can't find anything about replacing the power lock actuator, even via the sections that diagnose trouble with it. Ask me anything about the door lock wiring schematics, though, 'cause there's lots of info about that! Just take your time and it shouldn't be too hard to replace. As for the corner markers, see this post:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=162296
 
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Old Apr 7, 2004 | 10:22 AM
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I rarely ever have a problem with Ranger door lock actuators but see lots of Ranger/Explorers with bad latches. Be sure you properly diagnose which component is bad before purchasing the part.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2004 | 11:16 AM
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Suggestions how to diagnose? The right door power lock works fine, drivers door (which gets used a lot more) manually closes/opens/locks/unlocks fine, but no power. My experience (with my T-bird) is the actuators fail, drivers side first.

Thanks for ref post on markers (I need to learn how to search better), that was exactly what I was looking for. It was not obvious how to get at them.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2004 | 12:25 PM
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Do you have any problems working the lock with the key or the lock rod on the door? If they work smooth as silk its likely an actuator problem. If they are all hanging up then likely a latch. Be sure to do a circuit test at the actuator connector. You dont want to replace it and find you have a broken wire.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2004 | 12:31 PM
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The door opens/closes fine with the handle and with the key operates the lock with no mechanical problems. Which, short of connector/wiring problem makes me pretty convinced its the actuator. I will check for voltage at the actuator, but I am not really sure what that test is and which pin is what. Can autozone check those if I take it out?
 
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