Battery Drain
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 192
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From: Gilbert, Arizona (Phoenix
Battery Drain
Hi gang. I've done a search on battery drains and feel a bit more confused than when I started. I'm not sure where to start, so I figured I would post my sob story and take some advice from you masters.
I have a 76 F150. Just dropped a rebuilt 460 back into the truck. Prior to the engine swap, the battery was draining on me overnight. I suspected a starter problem, and replaced the starter when I did the engine swap.
Bummer is that now I can't enjoy my new engine - too afraid to go somewhere and shut the truck down. I've checked the voltage with the vehicle running and off - I get about 14.5 Volts running, and better than 13.2 when the truck is off (right after running). The battery is new, but I've had it load checked anyway.
I had thought the alternator could be the culprit, but with the increased voltage while running, I'm suspecting something else.
I've read posts that indicate something called a diode pack or an ignition module might be the culprit, but not sure what those are and which one to check first.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks,
-Vinny
I have a 76 F150. Just dropped a rebuilt 460 back into the truck. Prior to the engine swap, the battery was draining on me overnight. I suspected a starter problem, and replaced the starter when I did the engine swap.
Bummer is that now I can't enjoy my new engine - too afraid to go somewhere and shut the truck down. I've checked the voltage with the vehicle running and off - I get about 14.5 Volts running, and better than 13.2 when the truck is off (right after running). The battery is new, but I've had it load checked anyway.
I had thought the alternator could be the culprit, but with the increased voltage while running, I'm suspecting something else.
I've read posts that indicate something called a diode pack or an ignition module might be the culprit, but not sure what those are and which one to check first.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks,
-Vinny
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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Those figures on the battery are good.
Things that drain batteries.
Glove Box Light
Courtesy Lights
Brake Lights
Ok (All lighting)
Radio/Stereo
Intermittent wiper switch left in Pulse mode
Alternators ( Ground out )
Voltage regulators
I'd suggest doing a step by step circuit elimination trouble-shoot
Things that drain batteries.
Glove Box Light
Courtesy Lights
Brake Lights
Ok (All lighting)
Radio/Stereo
Intermittent wiper switch left in Pulse mode
Alternators ( Ground out )
Voltage regulators
I'd suggest doing a step by step circuit elimination trouble-shoot
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Gilbert, Arizona (Phoenix
Thanks for the checklist
Ok (All lighting)
The above three are all not working either in the truck. I have not begun to trouble shoot them, but did replace the headlight switch as I hoped it would be a cheap fix. Still no dashboard lights other than turn signals and hi-beam indicator.
Radio/Stereo- this is an aftermarket item in the truck that has power, but makes no noise - I suspected the speakers weren't hooked up right.
Intermittent wiper switch left in Pulse mode - This is in the right position. I didn't realize it could drain the battery if I left it in pulse mode. I didn't even know I had pulse mode until it rained last week.
Alternators ( Ground out ) - How would I know if its grounded out?
Voltage regulators - Looks like Checker sells these pretty cheap. Any way to test it first?
The above three are all not working either in the truck. I have not begun to trouble shoot them, but did replace the headlight switch as I hoped it would be a cheap fix. Still no dashboard lights other than turn signals and hi-beam indicator.
Radio/Stereo- this is an aftermarket item in the truck that has power, but makes no noise - I suspected the speakers weren't hooked up right.
Intermittent wiper switch left in Pulse mode - This is in the right position. I didn't realize it could drain the battery if I left it in pulse mode. I didn't even know I had pulse mode until it rained last week.
Alternators ( Ground out ) - How would I know if its grounded out?
Voltage regulators - Looks like Checker sells these pretty cheap. Any way to test it first?
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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Alternators ( Ground out ) - How would I know if its grounded out?~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This would show up at a testing machine for your alternator.
The older intermittment systems had a hot wire for the pulse system.
Leaving it in that position you could sit in the truck with it completely quiet> then would hear a Click to however the pulse was set.
I can't keep up to the Newer vehicles, It seems like they change mid assembly
You're going to have to look after ONE system at a time to figure this all out.
Sounds like a hatchet job : (
This would show up at a testing machine for your alternator.
The older intermittment systems had a hot wire for the pulse system.
Leaving it in that position you could sit in the truck with it completely quiet> then would hear a Click to however the pulse was set.
I can't keep up to the Newer vehicles, It seems like they change mid assembly
You're going to have to look after ONE system at a time to figure this all out.
Sounds like a hatchet job : (
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,595
Likes: 52
From: Lawton, Oklahoma
I cant tell you how many times Ive had customers pull in with their cars, or worse yet, have them towed in, with battery drained and I see a brand new alternator, starter and battery that Sears or some place installed or the customer himself. I peer under the hood and find that the voltage regulator is still the original. I test and find a large draw on the system, unplug the regulator and the draw goes away. I replace the regulator and charge the battery and off they go. Im sure they are very disappointed they spent all that money when the problem all along was an inexpensive regulator. Its usually the first thing I check on an older vehicle with external regulator. If the alternator is bad always replace the regulator with it. A bad regulator can damage a new alternator.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Gilbert, Arizona (Phoenix
Throwing money at this beast is definitely not working. Replaced the voltage regulator and starter solenoid today and still can't get it started. Brought the battery back to Autozone and it checked out good again. Even with my 200 amp jump starter, I can't get the truck to even turn over. When I connected the battery back up tonight, I heard little crackle sounds (not good) coming from around the battery terminal.
I know the starter is good, believe the alternator is good and am ready to pull out the voltage meter to start trying to track down this problem. I am definitely dealing with someone else's hatchet job.
I know the starter is good, believe the alternator is good and am ready to pull out the voltage meter to start trying to track down this problem. I am definitely dealing with someone else's hatchet job.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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The sparks mean there is a circuit trying to close.
You may have to do the dreaded " Pull the Fuse 'til you find the source test".
You may have to do the dreaded " Pull the Fuse 'til you find the source test".
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Senior User
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From: Gilbert, Arizona (Phoenix
I'm really clueless when it comes to electricity. Can you give me some details on teh dreaded "Pull the fuse..." test?
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Gilbert, Arizona (Phoenix
Thanks for all the advice. A friend of mine gave me the instructions on checking for th draing. I pulled the positive cable off the battery, and connect my test light between the positive terminal of the battery and the disconnected cable. He said if the light came on, I had a drain. Then I should start pulling fuses to see which one made the light go off. That would be the problem circuit.
When I put the test light on however, no light. Once I put the battery cable back on, the truck started. Pulled the cable off and back on, nothing. While I thought I had a good cable (continuity had checked out), it wasn't as good as I thought. Replace the cable that goes from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid and its starting every time.
Thanks again for all the advice and help.
Now, to figure out why the dashboard lights don't come on....
When I put the test light on however, no light. Once I put the battery cable back on, the truck started. Pulled the cable off and back on, nothing. While I thought I had a good cable (continuity had checked out), it wasn't as good as I thought. Replace the cable that goes from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid and its starting every time.
Thanks again for all the advice and help.
Now, to figure out why the dashboard lights don't come on....