Cooling Issues update...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
Cooling Issues update...
It seems as if my flex-a-lite 150 is doing its job very well. I can set in drive and even bring the RPMs up to about 1400 with the brake on and the tranny cooler and engine stay cool. Never get above the 195 degree mark where I set the thermostat. With the flex fan and no shroud like I was running I would have a locked up motor doing what I just did.
I did notice while making the burnout video that my temperature spiked quite quickly when I was on the gas hard. It only made it up to about 220 or so but as soon as I let off the gas it cooled right back down real quick like. This tells me that the radiator coolant is staying cool but the water pump is not keeping up. Its not a problem that is going to hurt anything really but an edelbrock water pump is in my near future. I don't know if I will replace anything before the FE nationals though. I have the rest of the summer to tinker with it.
I did notice while making the burnout video that my temperature spiked quite quickly when I was on the gas hard. It only made it up to about 220 or so but as soon as I let off the gas it cooled right back down real quick like. This tells me that the radiator coolant is staying cool but the water pump is not keeping up. Its not a problem that is going to hurt anything really but an edelbrock water pump is in my near future. I don't know if I will replace anything before the FE nationals though. I have the rest of the summer to tinker with it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
I was just about to put my fan through the real check when the rest of the motor went south. I finally got the AC compressor mounted and charged up. I don't recall it running warm on the way home from the recharge. But I was more concerned with the really poor running.
pushrods are here. Erson sent the wrong adjuster studs/nuts, so I'm waiting for those.
I think I'm going to pull the motor, disassemble and check the bearings and cylinder bores. If I don't find anything horrific, she goes back together without the lash caps. I'll check the geometry and go again...
pushrods are here. Erson sent the wrong adjuster studs/nuts, so I'm waiting for those.
I think I'm going to pull the motor, disassemble and check the bearings and cylinder bores. If I don't find anything horrific, she goes back together without the lash caps. I'll check the geometry and go again...
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
I don't think I'll be doing any re-sleeving. I need to see if any of the other cylinders are scratched as well.
I'm hoping I can just clean out any particles in the rings/cylinders, then maybe smooth out the one cylinder a little (just a lite sanding of the scratch) and run it. If I have to get it machined, can I just run larger rings or something? I guess I could run one larger piston and have it balanced ??? It's all new to me.
First, I need to pull the motor, and I've had little motivation to do that.
I'm hoping I can just clean out any particles in the rings/cylinders, then maybe smooth out the one cylinder a little (just a lite sanding of the scratch) and run it. If I have to get it machined, can I just run larger rings or something? I guess I could run one larger piston and have it balanced ??? It's all new to me.
First, I need to pull the motor, and I've had little motivation to do that.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
You have to run the same size holes in all 8 cylinders. If you do anything you can have it honed out. You may get a away with this. You can't buy bigger rings for your pistons. They will be the same. Don't use sandpaper on the cylinder walls. It will do more damage than it looks like it is doing good.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,565
Likes: 9
From: Sun River St. George
Lash caps? WTF? Is that what caused the mess in your engine? Where did you get lash caps? I would tear that engine down, clean everything and start with new bearings, polished crank, new rings and so on. The damaged cylinder will likley require an over bore. You may sleeve it to keep the pistons you already own or do another block. I have never seen lash caps on an FE. Inless I did and then forgot! Rat you going to the Nats? Driving the Ford? I'll buy you a beer if you do.
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
Originally Posted by William
Lash caps? WTF? Is that what caused the mess in your engine? Where did you get lash caps? I would tear that engine down, clean everything and start with new bearings, polished crank, new rings and so on. The damaged cylinder will likley require an over bore. You may sleeve it to keep the pistons you already own or do another block. I have never seen lash caps on an FE. Inless I did and then forgot! Rat you going to the Nats? Driving the Ford? I'll buy you a beer if you do.
I don't know what caused the failure.
probably poor choice of equipment and bad design by the engine designer :-)
Consider where he get's most of his information..............
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,260
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From: Napa
gtex,
Hey, it could be worse...just look at my poor 352
http://www.thunder65.com/images/temp/eng1.jpg
Hey, it could be worse...just look at my poor 352
http://www.thunder65.com/images/temp/eng1.jpg
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
Where did you get that 352? From a boat??? -hehe
Gtex- You can hone a single cylinder to remove a slight scratch, maybe 5 thousandths or so. Take the piston to a machinist and have it knurled. Get a new set of rings. This is a poor-boy fix but it will run a while. Racing it is kind of up to you tho...
Gtex- You can hone a single cylinder to remove a slight scratch, maybe 5 thousandths or so. Take the piston to a machinist and have it knurled. Get a new set of rings. This is a poor-boy fix but it will run a while. Racing it is kind of up to you tho...
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 534
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From: Hoquiam, WA
Torque- You should have seen the 352 I took out of my old 66. The crack started between the first and second lifter bores, and proceeded in an arch to 1/4 " below the deck (between the two center cyl's) and then back down to between the seventh and eighth lifter bores.
The crack had pushed out to 3/8" at the top of the arch.
Yes, I drove the truck up onto the trailer when I bought it.
When I pulled the motor, I drained 7 gals. of chocolate shake out of it.
The FE is a great motor, but if you don't have anti-freeze in it in below freezing temps, mother nature may make you pay for it.
The crack had pushed out to 3/8" at the top of the arch.
Yes, I drove the truck up onto the trailer when I bought it.
When I pulled the motor, I drained 7 gals. of chocolate shake out of it.
The FE is a great motor, but if you don't have anti-freeze in it in below freezing temps, mother nature may make you pay for it.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
Hey William! I will be there as far as I know. Something huge would have to come up between now and then. The truck will be with me too. I'll be in the race. We definitely need to have a beer.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,844
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From: Albuquerque
Ratsmoker - I think you're right about the water pump not being able to keep up. I use the Edelbrock and it has worked great! I get excellent flow because I have not seen the temp gauge shoot up quickly. I am using a 50/50 mix in my aluminum radiator w/ over-flow bottle and dual electric fan #295. Of course I will see how my setup works this summer. I did the conversion/install last fall when temp's had already started to drop.
I'm looking forward to those 95° days...
...well maybe not since I don't have A/C... 
I'm looking forward to those 95° days...
...well maybe not since I don't have A/C...
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