If I put on a Tymar air intake, and do the 10K mod on my stock 2002 PSD will I get some good Turbo Whine? Also i see where the 10K mod will add about 30 x-tra HP, how much more will the Tymar add to the horsepower?
I am not looking to add alot of horsepower, but I would like to have the turbo whine and blow some black smoke when i get on it.
Thanks!

 

The Tymar alone will make the turbo whine. If you really want turbo whine remove your muffler. In order to get the black smoke you usually have to run some sort of chip or tuner of at least moderate power.

 

OK> I got the mod done. Used telephone wire to extend the leads, used shrink tubing to cover her up and then inserted it into the plug. Turned the key to the on position and no lights came on. Went ahead and started it and still no lights.
BUT- I didn't noticed much if any increase in the idle RPM's. Is the telephone wire to small to use to make contact in the stock plugs?
Also, the leads to the resistor touched before I installed it, will this kill a new resistor?

 

only way you can kill a resistor is lots of current, or a hammer. Not ESD sensitive like a transistor, IC, etc. We are not talking about large amounts of current so the small gauge phone wire should handle it fine. Be sure all contacts/leads were clean before soldering together. When I did mine my idle didn't increase but there was a noticeable lope at idle. Sounded like I put an RV cam in.
Pull the resistor out, ohm it out, scuff up the leads and try again. Drive it around for a while to see if anything has changed (mileage, power, etc.). Good luck and happy modding.
Mike

 

I got it. I was trying to stick the wires in through the top of the plug with out unplugging it. RPMS did go up a bit especially while out of park. Seems to have a little more spunk when I romp on it. No black smoke , but happy.
It does work better when you unplug the plug and stick it in the female side and then replug it in.
Now for the TYMAR..... By the way how much HP will I gain with a tymar intake?

 

Don't let the lack of smoke get you down, I just did the mod with a 5.6k resistor and also had no smoke increase. Did achieve one thing, it sounded like %^$& at idle. Mod was removed. NOt impressed. would rather just have the SCMT installed and sounding good than both and sounded like a dying dog....

 

Here is another cheap upgrade option that does not screw with the idle.

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OK, I've finally come up with a sensor-safe modification of my modified 10K mod.

The problem with the original clamp circuit, a 470ohm resistor and
three diodes in series connected from the ICP sensor output to ground, was potential damage to the sensor due to overloading when it senses
maximum pressure when backing down from full throttle at high RPM. Without access to the sensor specs I thought it better to err on the safe side than take any chance of turning your Ford into F.O.R.D.

I'm basing this redesign on the fact that lots of guys have run the 10K mod probably for years, some with even lower value resistors, and, to my knowledge, no one has reported a sensor problem. The new circuit
actually produces less sensor load than the 10K mod.

The bad news is that we have to cut the wire from the sensor to insert
the series resistor which protects the sensor. The good news is that
sensor-safe clamp (#2) works just as good at idle, not affecting it at all, and measurably better (9.9s) in my 0-60 tests. (9.9s is the same time my SCMT ran on +70 HP). Note that programmers and chips can also change automatic transmission shift schedules, my circuit can't.

Stock ------ 12.6s (2WD)
Stock ------ 13.1s
10k mod --- 10.6s
Clamp #1 -- 10.1s
Clamp #2 -- 9.9s

Parts list, as available at Radio Shack:
1 5.6K 1/2W resistor # 271-1125, (could be 1/4W)
1 1.0K 1/4W resistor # 271-1321
3 1N4001 diodes # 276-1101
1 pkg heat-shrink tubing # 278-1627

I recommend all connections be done by soldering and heat-shrink tubing be used on all exposed wires. Connect the 1K resistor and the three diodes in series with the banded ends of the diodes in the same direction. (If you made the 470ohm version, replace the 470 with the 1K.)

------ 1K -------->|-------->|-------->|--------

Locate the ICP sensor "output to PCM" wire, it's either BLU/GRN or
BLU/RED.
(If you unlatch the connector from the sensor and look at the
connector, it will be the center pin.) This is the wire you'll be cutting, so I recommend untaping the plastic conduit and pulling the wires out for more working room. If you're neat about it you can make the cut under the conduit for a "who me?" hiding job. Cut the wire and connect the 5.6K resistor in series.
(The resistor does nothing by itself so it can stay in permanently even if you remove the rest of the circuit later.)

Connect the 1K end of the 1K/diodes circuit to the PCM end (not the ICP sensor end) of the 5.6K resistor. Solder.

The banded end of the third diode connects to ground. If you connect it at the sensor, use the GRY/RED wire. (You will not be connecting to the BRN/WHT (5volt) wire.) You may also add a Clamp/Stock switch instead. If so, attach a length of wire to the end diode and run it thru the firewall to an SPST switch in the cab. (I've seen "customer use" wires dead-ended under the dash and hood that could be used.) Connect the other switch terminal to a frame ground under the dash. To find out which position of the switch is ON or OFF, push that pedal under your right foot down and flip the switch.
You'll know!

The installation on this circuit a little more complex, but I guarantee it'll put a smile on your face and keep your ICP sensor happy too!
toptuner