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Mabe you guys can give me some help on a rough idle problem I am having with my 1988 f-150 4.9 engine. I started my truck the other morning and I lost all power.I figured bad battery connection. Turned key again and truck started fine. When I got back home I removed and cleaned battery terminals. Reconnected battery terminals ever since the truck dont want to idle properly.When I first start the truck it starts fine and then dies right away.Starts fine the second time and soon as the fast idle dies down the engine missed pretty bad. I have had check engine light on for quite awhile, had code checked and they think it is a EGR Valve. Will the egr valve cause my rough idle problem? Also when the engine warms up and I drive a mile or two the idle seems to run smooth. But I can shut the engine off and the engine will still be hot and restart the engine the rough idle will be back even when the engine is hot untill I drive about a mile or so again and the engine runs smooth again.
Any info would be appreicated.
I'd start with pulling the codes again to see what comes up. You can do it yourself if you like, go to http://fordfuelinjection.com and click on "Getting Codes" on the left side of the screen if you don't know how to pull the codes. An EGR valve that is sticking open at idle can definitely cause a rough idle.
a stuck EGR could very well cause a rough idle, but there are many other things to consider before you go drop $75 on a new one.
I would try this old trick; with the truck running and idling poorly, locate the egr and give it a few taps with a wrench or something similar...sometimes when they're stuck you can loosen it that way and you'd notice an immediate improvment.
I'd start with pulling the codes again to see what comes up. You can do it yourself if you like, go to http://fordfuelinjection.com and click on "Getting Codes" on the left side of the screen if you don't know how to pull the codes. An EGR valve that is sticking open at idle can definitely cause a rough idle.
Thanks for reply I checked codes and came up with
codes 53 and 32
a stuck EGR could very well cause a rough idle, but there are many other things to consider before you go drop $75 on a new one.
I would try this old trick; with the truck running and idling poorly, locate the egr and give it a few taps with a wrench or something similar...sometimes when they're stuck you can loosen it that way and you'd notice an immediate improvment.
Thanks for your reply I did try to tap on EGR Valve while engine was running rough and it did not help. I pulled the vaccume and the power connector on th egr and the idle did not change still ran rough.
53 indicates a problem with the throttle position sensor. Test that and see if it checks out ok - should have ~.9V with the throttle closed (engine off, key on) and progress smoothly up to around 4.8V at full throttle. 32 indicates that EGR valve opening is not detected, or EVP below minimum voltage. Check the EGR valve for proper operation.
53 indicates a problem with the throttle position sensor. Test that and see if it checks out ok - should have ~.9V with the throttle closed (engine off, key on) and progress smoothly up to around 4.8V at full throttle. 32 indicates that EGR valve opening is not detected, or EVP below minimum voltage. Check the EGR valve for proper operation.
Thanks for all the info . Where is the throttle sensor i just replaced some type of idle sensor? It has two screws that bolt on I guess is the throttle body and has a plug that goes into it.
Get a Haynes manual for your truck, it will describe how to test the TPS. The tps is located on the throttle body, on the end of the shaft opposite of the throttle cable. It sends a signal to the computer to tell it where the throttle is, which helps the computer calculate fuel and timing requirements for the engine.
I have basiclly the same problem. Replaced just about everything, including the EGR valve, yet the ECC still pukes up a code 32. My rough idle/no power condition exists almost constantly.
53 indicates a problem with the throttle position sensor. Test that and see if it checks out ok - should have ~.9V with the throttle closed (engine off, key on) and progress smoothly up to around 4.8V at full throttle. 32 indicates that EGR valve opening is not detected, or EVP below minimum voltage. Check the EGR valve for proper operation.
Can you tell me what the connections are on the TPS? I did replace the TPS and I would like to check with meter. I have the old sensor and I see three terminals in it they are marked abc.Which out of the three would I connect my test probes to?
I can't remember right off hand which is which, but the VREF should be the orange wire, the SIGRTN should be the black wire, and the TPS signal wire is the green one. You'll want to connect between the green and the black, and measure resistance if it is off of the truck. Measure voltage if it's installed, and have the key turned on, but leave the engine off.
Thanks you for the info so what you are saying I just need to use the green and black wires to check voltage and resistance?
Also when you install the TPS should the connector on the TPS be pointing down and turned up and install the mounting screws. I think when I put the TPS on I had the connector tuned up and then turned it down and installed the screws. Can the TPS be damaged if turned the wrong way?
I have basiclly the same problem. Replaced just about everything, including the EGR valve, yet the ECC still pukes up a code 32. My rough idle/no power condition exists almost constantly.
had a similar problem on my wifes explorer and had to pull the EGR bck off and clean the tubes with Throttle Body Cleaner and the light went off and the code went away.
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