Is Amsoil o.k. for my brand new F250 SD ???

My first post

PS. Also, this is my first F250 SD.

 

Only a few of Amsoils oils have API certification. According to Ford, you MUST use an oil that has the proper API certification.

 

On any new engine you should run 3-6 thou B4 using synth oil to allow the engine to break in properly..Thats the old school I think it still holds true...

 

I know for diesels this mileage is higher. It usually takes longer to break in the engine.

 

Piston rings are the concern they are all the same...but longer doesn't hurt either..

 

Yes, I agree.......I think I would wait FOREVER before putting Amsoil in an engine!!!!!!!

 

I don't think that holds true anymore. They put synthetic in from the factory on a lot of engines now. They're actually designed for it now if I'm not mistaken.

 

Maybe your right. They must do something to seat the rings though....Personnaly I would wait 3000 or more...

 

Cummins still tells you to do it. I don't know about others.

 

Well, it's for sure that waiting 5 or 10 thousand miles can't hurt on a gas engine. And, if I had a diesel, I'd wait at least 20 thousand.

 

Amsoil 5W-20 IS api certified.....do you have a gasser or oil burner?

 

i would use mineral oil in the begining....Some Synthetic companies after extensive reaserch have even supported these findings.. "Redline" read there site.. they reccommend using synthetics at first.... anyway call any good engine builder..(not your dealership).. i mean race car engines.. race bike engs etc... youll have a hard time finding anyone that will recommend synthetics from day one... the reason is they are better at lubrication and can cause your cylinder walls to glaze over... there needs to be some friction in the begining in order for the piston to get a perfect match with the cylinder wall, it needs to sand itself together a bit... i have even heard of eng. builders running the eng for a bit with only moly lube type grease on the bearings and cams.. but w/out oil in the eng to speed up the break in and get a perfect seal on the rings.. (i would not recommend that or would not ever do that myself)..... anyway i have raced streetbikes my whole life and have now gotten out of it and into off road quads.. i just got a new one.. after many years of doing this this is how i broke this race bike in.. brand new engine, never started.. 12.1 comp ratio 11k redline..(race eng with tighter specs than our trucks will ever know)... anyway new oil.. idle it for a few mins.. let it cool drain a bit of oil check for particles.. if not much.. start running it for 10 min at a time.. than stop and let it cool for 30 min.. each run start going further into the rpm range.. dont get anywhere near top end till youve ran it and shut it down at least 4 times... do this about 6 times get it it up to 3/4 throttle..... then change oil and filter.. than ride it for about 3 hours work you way up to full throttle.. change oil.. ride it for day.. dont stay on the gas for long cause there is way more heat in the begging and your cooling system cant keep up with wide open for long...change the oil... than ride it for a weekend.. start to open it up.. change the oil... than drop in the synthetics.. (ive always used amsoil..do your own reaserch but they run the highest zinc levels and thats what race high rev tigh tolerance engs love)... anyway drop in the synthetics and let her have it... for my truck.. id run mineral oil for 10k miles just drive it easy but dont be afraid to rap it up once in awhile.. dont drive the first 10k without ever getting to redline.. do it once in awhile.. the eng wont sand itself together if your too easy on it.. its not the high rpms.. its the generated heat.. so get on it but not for long...good luck.. if yall want i post some links to support my opinions and good reading.. let me know..but the links will have more to do with 1-4 cylinder engines 12.1 ratios and 11-14k redlines.. not exactly the PSD.. but you can get the point.
JJ

 

It's has to do a lot with the type of engine you have but break in over 10,000 IMO is way excessive after 10,000 diesel or not the break in is done. I have seen lot's of research to back this up. Like Jet jock point's I have used the same type of break in with lot's of motors with with varying changes for motor type. But here is some info on the subject that ya'll can draw your own opinions on.


"Using synthetic-oil in engine break-ins
By Road & Track, Technical Correspondence Column, July 2000 issue


Many readers have questioned us on engine break-in procedures when using synthetic oil. Conventional wisdom has it that a new or freshly rebuilt engine should be broken in using mineral oil, then, once enough mileage has accumulated to ensure rings and cylinder walls have lapped themselves into harmony, synthetic oil can be used.

Readers have correctly pointed out that several major brands come from the factory with synthetic oil, among these being Corvette, Mercedes-Benz and Viper. How can these engines break-in if run on synthetic oil from day one, they ask?

To find out, we spoke with Mobil and Redline Oil companies for their take on the synthetic break-in question. Mobil's response was that engines break-in just fine on synthetics, and that any wear point in the engine significant enough to be an interference, and thus susceptible to rapid wear, would be a wear point no matter what lubricant is used.

Redline, on the other hand, has found it best to recommend a mineral oil break-in. Occasionally an engine will glaze its cylinder walls when initially run on Redline, they say, so by using a mineral oil for 2000 miles, verifying there is no oil consumption and then switching to the synthetic, glazing is eliminated.

Cylinder-wall glazing is not a deposit left on the cylinder wall, but rather a displacement of cylinder-wall metal. This happens when the high spots of the cylinder wall crosshatch are not cut or worn off by the piston rings, but rather rolled over into the valleys or grooves of the crosshatch. This leaves a surface that oil adheres to poorly, against which the rings cannot seal well. Compression is lost and oil consumed, and the only cure is to tear down the engine to physically restore the cylinder-wall finish by honing.

Why is glazing not a problem for the major manufacturer? Because they have complete, accurate control over their cylinder-wall finish and ring type. Redline deals with a huge variety of engines and manufacturers, both OEM and from the aftermarket. Cylinder-wall finish and ring type thus vary greatly, and glazing can therefore occur, albeit rarely.

While we were at it, we queried about synthetic oil-change intervals. Mobil says to use the maximum change interval specified by the engine manufacturer, regardless of oil type. Redline said that once past an OEM warranty, anywhere from 10,000 to 18,000 miles, or one year, whichever comes first, is appropriate depending on conditions (dust, short trips). They also recommend changing just the oil filter at 6000 to 7000 miles as a precaution against overloading the filter. Redline further noted a caution when using synthetics with leaded fuels, as synthetics do not hold lead in suspension as well as mineral oil. Aviation is one area where leaded fuel is still widespread, and avgas is often used by off-road and racing enthusiasts, so a relatively short oil change interval may thus be indicated.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Synthetic Break-in
By Tom Wilson
Road & Track, Technical Correspondence Column, November 2001 issue


Exxon/Mobil's official policy is that their synthetic oil may be used at any mileage, including factory fill, unless otherwise stated by the vehicle manufacturer. Mobil pointed out, as you did, that all Corvettes, Vipers, Porsches and Aston Martins are factory filled with Mobil 1 synthetic. We can only conclude that improvements in cylinder-wall finish and ring design or materials makes this possible.

It is also likely that vehicle manufacturers not using synthetics as the factory fill are also not optimizing their cylinder and ring packages for the slippery sythetics, in which case approximately 1000 miles on mineral oil should prove ample break-in time. In fact, in modern engines a very high percentage of ring break-in takes place very quickly, probably in the first 10 to 20 minutes of engine running. Certainly, some final lapping of the rings and cylinders takes place over several hundred miles after initial break-in.

Just to add some confusion, Porsche dynos all of its engines before installing them in the chassis. We were unable to determine what oil is used for the dyno session, but would presume it's Mobil 1"

 

Just use what the mfr. recommends, especially if you stick to the maintenance intervals. It keeps your warranty in check.