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iv decieded since im ganna lift my truck 3 inches i wanted to paint my rear end. im not sure which grit or even kind of sand paper to get or even if i should use sand paper. also i dont know what kind of sprey paint of paint to get if any of youv done this or know how please explain what I need
It depends of the current condition of the rear end. Does it still have paint on it, just surface rust or is it flaking. If it has paint, use nothing heavier than 320 grit just to break the surface of the paint. Clean it with naptha or mineral spirits. The paint with your choice of color in Enamel or preferably an Epoxy based paint(will hold up longer).
If it has surface rust, clean with wire brush as much as you can, coat with a steel treatment, let dry and paint as above.
If it is flaking, remove as much of the material you can with a wire wheel, inspect the depth of area, if more than 25% of the wall thickness is gone near the chunk or the axle bearing area or near the u-bolt for the springs and brackets for the shocks, I would look into replacing the housing or getting another one in it's place.
Are you talking about the whole axle, or just the diff cover? Ive never heard of anyone painting an axle, but that definately doesnt mean its been done. If anyone needs a new chrome 8.8 diff cover real cheap, shoot me an email.
How much does it cost about to take something somewhere and and get it sandblasted. for instance the back half of a frame. if i disconnected all the tanks and that business so it was bare frame and the wires were covered up?
I thought about doing that to mine. They wanted $400 for the job. They mostly blasted heavy equipment and oil field stuff with large grit sand. I wouldn't trust them without supervising. I was afraid the would blast right through any protection I put on the lines and elect. wiring. These guys are not used to dealing with delicate parts on small vehicles.
I am in the process of rebuilding the front axle of my '95 F150. I have used a combination of wire wheel, aluminum grit sandblasting, and bead blasting to clean and prepare the parts for paint. I am using a paint called Zero Rust directly on the clean metal. I have also used POR 15 on another axle I am rebuilding for my '79 project. I like the looks of the Zero Rust better for under carriage parts (very factory looking semi flat black) but the POR 15 seems to be a far tougher paint in terms of abrasion resistance. In the body work forum several have noted that Zero Rust seems to prevent rust better than POR 15 but I have yet to put either paint to the test to see which one lasts the longest.
It is however an axle and in real world terms you could just clean the rust and grease off of it the best you can and paint right over the top of whatever you can't get. In 8 months to a year if there are some bad spots - it's just time to clean those spots and paint them again.
Should look real sharp - let us know how it turns out...
I've used Rustoleam before it lasts for years and all i did was clean the axle with a soap and water and then wire brushed it. You can paint over surface rust just get the flaking rust off.
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