Not to seem too stupid, but just exactly how do you change the air filter? The oil and fuel are relatively easy, but when I went to change the air filter, I undid the 4 latches on top, but could not get the canister off, I didn't want to force anything so I gave up until I can find some info on this procedure. Anybody know any tricks, or how to's?

 

I don't have it here on this computer but there is a .pdf file with the instructions on it. Do a search on this forum. There have been several threads about the subject. I just did a search and can't find it. I will get my copy at home tonight and post it.

 

Mike223 I just did mine last night what a pain in the hiney. after loosening the latches pull the two ends away from the main filter body. Then pull the filter housing straight up. it has two nubs that snap into groments at the bottom of the filter. You kind of have to do this all in harmony. putting the new one back in is just the opposite only a little harder. I also almost drained the fuel filter with out getting any on me, that is until I dropped the one gallon freezer bag of fuel as I was sliding out from under the truck. Note. spray WD-40 or equivelant on the brass plug before attempting to remove it. let it set a few minutes and wipe it off with a clean rag to keep from contaminating the fuel. this helps remove the corrosion around the plug, and keeps you from stripping the soft brass plug.

 

I also saw a post where someone had removed the connector on the hose from the back of the air filter to the turbo and then removed the air filter and said it was much easier.

 

I found the article in a .pdf file. I don't know how to post it but here goes.

ENGINE—6.0L DIESEL—AIR FILTER SERVICE, Article No.
REMOVAL OR REPLACEMENT—SERVICE TIPS 03-1-9
FORD: 2003 EXCURSION, SUPER DUTY F SERIES
NOTE ISSUE
THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE INLET BELL Some 2003 F250-550 Super Duty and Excursion
MOUTH AND THE GOR (GRILL OPENING vehicles equipped with a 6.0L Powerstroke engine,
REINFORCEMENT) VARIES BETWEEN may exhibit a difficult to remove or replace air filter
VEHICLES. IN THIS STEP, JUST ENOUGH assembly during service.
CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE INLET COVER AND
ACTION THE FILTERS 2 INLET WINDOWS IS NEEDED
SO THE FILTER DOES NOT GET HUNG ON THE The following procedure has been provided to assist
INLET. with air filter removal or installation during service.
3. Separate the outlet cover from the filter by SERVICE PROCEDURE
pushing on top of cover as shown in Figure 4.
Filter Removal NOTE
COVER SHOULD BE AT APPROXIMATELY 15 1. Release 4 toggle clamps located on top of
DEGREES FROM FILTER, AND VISIBLE GAP assembly (Figure 1).
ONLY AT THE TOP, AS THE TABS ARE STILL
2. Lift inlet slightly, enough to disengage the 2 ENGAGED AT THE BOTTOM.
tabs on the bottom of the inlet cover from the 2
windows on bottom of the filter inlet, and push
it forward toward front of vehicle as shown in
Figures 2 and 3.
NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do
the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper
vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by “do-it-yourselfers”. Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a
Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle.
Copyright ã 2003 Ford Motor Company PAGE 1
Article No. 03-1-9 Cont’d.
4. Pull outlet cover up enough to disengage the 2
tabs on the outlet cover and the filters 2
windows located at the bottom of the clean
side. At this step, the MAFS may contact the
degas bottle while pulling the cover up but this
should not create a problem. Push cover
slightly away from filter and down as in Figure
5.
5. Pull filter upward to disengage its 2 legs from
grommets (Figure 6). It is easiest to rock the
filter forward/aft while pulling it up.
Filter Installation
1. Use the guide on the filter to align its legs to
the grommet during its installation as shown in
Figure 7, making sure filter is fully seated on
the cradle.
2. Attach inlet cover to filter using the 2 clamps on
inlet side, making sure that tabs are seated
inside the windows (Figure 8).
Figure 1 - Article 03-1-9 3. This step my require some effort/force to
assemble the cover to the filter. Pull cover up,
and bring it at an angle to attach the 2 tabs to
the 2 windows at the bottom of the clean side
as shown in Figures 9 and 10. In the next step,
make sure clamps are out of the way and do
not interfere with the seal.
4. Bring top of cover toward the filter using both
hands as shown in Figure 11. You will
encounter some resistance but should press
firmly. Attach the inboard clamp first while
holding pressure on cover, and then attach
outboard clamp.
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
OASIS CODES: 404000, 490000, 499000
Figure 2 - Article 03-1-9
PAGE 2
Article No. 03-1-9 Cont’d.
Figure 3 - Article 03-1-9 Figure 5 - Article 03-1-9
Figure 4 - Article 03-1-9 Figure 6 - Article 03-1-9
PAGE 3
Article No. 03-1-9 Cont’d.
Figure 7 - Article 03-1-9 Figure 9 - Article 03-1-9
Figure 8 - Article 03-1-9
PAGE 4
Article No. 03-1-9 Cont’d.
Figure 10 - Article 03-1-9
Figure 11 - Article 03-1-9
PAGE 5

 

Thanks for the help guys, I'll try to do this soonest. Who would have thought that an air filter would be such a pain, but then who would have thought that the primary fuel filter would be placed inside a frame rail underneath the truck. Same old story, engineers and maintainers not communicating.

The fuel draining evolution was relatively painless, but I used a windshield wiper fluid container with the bottom cut out, vice a plastic bag, into which to drain it. The HCFM filter was a pain to reinstall because of the brake/fuel lines as well as the front driveshaft, but totally draining the separator got most of the fuel out of the filter, so there was only a little left when I opened it up.

 

It is a Ford thing, my 86 Bronco (do I mention that here) had the fuel filter under the driver door on the frame. Just about in the same place. Took a gas bath every time I changed it. So I was not upset to find the fuel filter in the same spot.

 

I think this is what you maybe looking for. I saved it for when I need to replace my filter.

It's actually fairly simple to replace the air filter. Just unplug all of the wiring connectors (filter minder and intake air temp. sensor) and then the rubber intake tube that goes from the filter assy. toward the turbo....then just pull the complete assy. up. It is then easy to change the filter. To replace, lube the grommets at the bottom a little that secures the assy. I hope that's plain enough and not confusing. I can have the entire assy. out and on my bench in less than a minute that way. The procedure in the shop manual is a LOT more tedious since it has you removing it in sections.

International oil filter part #1840752C91