Well, after reading and reading I finally decided to install my gauges last night. I decided to go pre-turbo as I pull some pretty heavy stuff from time to time. I drilled the exhaust manifold slowly until I just penetrated the inside. At that time I started the shop-vac and ran it until I had the hole completely through. I then held the shop vac over the hole for a few minutes moving it a little side to side. I then ran my 1/8 inch NPT tap in while continuing to hold the shop vac at the hole and tap entrance. I then to two q-tips and coated with grease and bent them to 90 deg ( a pipe cleaner would have worked real well here also) inserted in the tapped hole and twisted them around and around inside the hole. After this I got out and inspected both q-tips with a magnifying glass. I could find no particles so I started the engine and let it idle for a few minutes to see if it would blow out any particles. I then installed the temp probe and routed the wires to the A-pillar pod.

Next chore was to install the boost gauge. Upon inspection I discovered there was no tee supplied to install in the map sensor line even though the instructions talk about installing it. So I figure I will go ahead a route the line to the gauge and pickup the tee the next day. Well after pulling it up to the A-pillar the tubing won’t reach the map sensor line. So now I have to go find some more tubing and get a longer length. I think I will try to find that bendable metal tubing instead of the supplied plastic.

That’s about it so far. I hope to pickup the parts today and do some more work tonight. I will need to wire up the gauges to power and such also. Plus I have to find some plastic paint to paint the pod. I ordered a tan pod but my interior is medium parchment.

 

Good job sounds like you are doing everthing right. The most ingenious thing I heard of someone doing to remove the metal chips, was to stick an allen key in the hole with a magnet attacted. this causes the allen key to become a magnet itself. the boost tubing and tees can be purchase at advance auto. Something else to remember is that the exaust side of the turbo the impeller is made of stainless steel for heat purposes. that means a few metal shaving wont hurt it on startup like foriegn objects going through the intake side. good luck with the install and keep us posted jerry.

 

Don't you just hate that !!!!

Start a project and then find that all the "stuff" is not there - GRRRRRR

Who did you get the kit with the missing parts from????

My concern when I run into something like that is what ELSE is wrong...
if the quality control is such that parts are missing - are we sure the gauges have all their "parts" - is it really accurate ?!?!?!

(Course I used to run motorcycles until I got **** about - Did I tighten that front hub properly ? What would a blowout at 80 do to me ???)

Somewhat took the fun out of it

 

Hey $trokin60, does advance carry the plastic or metal boost lines? Do they sell the tubing by itself? I have bought other gauges from them but I don't remember seeing just the line. I wasn't really looking though.....

 

Well they are Autometer gauges and came sealed in the package. Maybe someone here has used these gauges (Phantom) before and had the same problem? I don't want to say who I bought them from if it's not their fault. It just looks like Autometer didn't put in the tee............or long enough tubing.

 

Understand !

just asking to save the next guy a problem...
yes, autometer left it out...
but a simpe check of the contents when shipping from your supplier could have caught it as well...

just mho and $.00000002

 

Trust me I agree with you. I just assumed it is like a standard boost gauge for anything and you just have to buy the interface parts as your installation dictates. I was hoping someone else woould pipe in and say "yes, my Autometer gauges were the same". We will see........BTW I did order 03-04 PSD boost gauge..

 

Autometer DID NOT leave out any missing pieces. They do not supply a T. They also do not supply enough hose for the long run of the trucks. What I did for install of the boost gauge was this... I bought a 1/4" T with all female ends. In those ends I intalled three 1/4" barbed hose fittings (the kind you slide the hose right over and clamp it down). That was for the MAP sensor end. I also bough about five feet length of 1/4" vacuum hose. Instead of cutting the MAP sensor hose to splice in, I cut a 2" piece of the vacuum hose to put on the end. Intalled the T in that fashion, orginal hose on one side, new hose on the other side hooked into the map sensor. The Autometer gauges come with and 1/8" fitting, so I also bought a 1/4" to 1/8" reducer. I installed the 1/8" w/ compression fitting into the 1/8" side of the reducer (obviously!). On the other side of the reducer I put in another 1/4" barbed hose fitting. So, between the MAP sensor and the Autometer fitting I installed about 3 feet of vacuum line. That is how I made up for the short hose that is supplied. I wasn't 3 feet short, I actually cut the original hose sot that the fitting would rest on top of the brake fluid resevoir. So other than that, I clamped all of the hose ends and tefloned all of the threads. It was pretty simple. The extra parts were around $15 from Home Depot. The vacuum line had to come from an auto part store.

Unforunately, trucks are not Autometer's first thought for applications of their gauges, hence the short line. It was only about 14" short, but that seems like a mile when you want to get your project done. The length they provide is more than ample for the couple of cars I have installed them in.

Here is a list of the extra supplies I needed:
(1) 1/4" T, female threads on all sides, ~$4
(4) 1/4" barbed hose fittings, 1/4" male threads, ~$2 each
(1) 1/4" to 1/8" reducer, female threads on both ends, ~$3
(1) 1/4" vacuum hose, 5' in lenth (could be done in less, but its cheap), ~$.050/ft.
(1) roll of teflon tape, ~$0.50
(4) 1/4" hose clamps, ~$0.50 each

 

purplewg they carry both the copper and teftlon line it comes with all the brass fitting but not the tees. It's usually over with the honda and foriegn car part accessories. this is just the piping kit you do not have to buy the gauge. some auto zones also carry these kits. they are made by sunco. I had to buy some when I switched my gauges from my 7.3 to my 6.0. Jerry

 

Thanks much Jerry. I'm headed down there at lunch today.
purple

 

Thanks for verifying this. I though so but wanted to make sure. Now when someone wants to know we can tell them to expect this. I would hate for it to be someone who only has the one auto to drive and finds out they need to run to the parts house.

 

Egg-xactly !
my reason for pointing it out :-)

 

OK, they had the copper line but were out of the Nylon line. That is ok. I will use the copper that way I don't have to worry as much about melting it.

BTW, they also have brass fittings back in their parts area. I told the guy I was looking for a brass T with 1/4" threads on the three sides and adapters to 1/4 ID rubber. He came out with them. So now to complete the job I had to add another $15 to the gauge cost. They didn't have any Medium Parchment paint though...

 

Well, I thought all was well but.........I hooked up the copper line to the map sensor. I just pulled the hose off of the map, put the tee on the existing line, used a short piece of tubing on the tee to the MAP sensor, the third end of the tee I connected the copper tubing to. Just saved me from having to cut the existing line. I ran the copper line right across the top of the engine and tie wrapped it up to the existing wiring that was running across. You can't even see it until it exits over by the radiator reservoir and goes into the firewall. All's going great until I discover I don't have the compression coupling to hook the two lines together. The copper was not long enough so I needed to couple it to the Nylon line. I though I had one but no.... At this point I figured I might as well go ahead and do the electrical and have that out of the way. Running power to the Pyro gauge was not a problem. I hooked up the customer access wire (is switched by the ignition). Ran a ground up there also. Then I tried to pop the light switch out and I heard some cracking/popping noises so I stopped. I looked around for another connection point for the lamps in the gauges but there was no easy solution so back to the light switch. I finally said, "Hey if it breaks I will just replace it". I really wanted to get to the dimmer wire. I put the flat blade up in the slot pulled it out some and worked my way around it ignoring the popping/cracking noises. Soon it popped out intact. I connected an inline wire splice to blue/red wire on the dimmer and tested with a test light and all was well. I then popped the light switch back in. I think it would have been easier if I could have remembered how to get the switch **** off. I read it somewhere but I couldn't remember. In the old days you reached up in back and pushed a little button to release the ****/stem. Well today I will pick up the 1/8-inch coupling and drop by Ford to see if they have Med Parchment interior paint on hand. I have to get the pod painted before I hook everything up. Still trudging along........So for being so long winded but maybe some part of this may help someone in the future......purple

 

Sorry I didnt post this sooner there is a wire to splice into under the dash. Take the acces cover off above the gas pedal. there is a wire harness in there whith snap connecter. the wire in the very center is the dimmer switch wire. this wont help you, but maybe the next person. I guess for anybody that ask for gauges in the future we should steer them to the complete gauge set-up designed for these diesels. I have the banks gages. they came with everthing needed to do the complete install. They also sent very good instructions.