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I have a 1976 Ford F100 with a 390, but im putting a 351/400 in it and i was wandering where i can see some good parts to buy to turn this truck into a tire shredder street strip, i already have the motor and a 200horse shot nitrous kit, just need some more info on good combos to make my truck an awesome ride and a quick one....
There have been several posts recently about that very question. I started a few of them myself because I have a 351m in my pickup. I don't care about the strip racing, I just want something with more guts than the laughable 140HP that it came with from Ford...
I can tell you what I am going to do to mine. Also, there is an article from Hotrod Mag where they took a 400, spent less than $2k on it, and pulled almost 400HP from it. Not bad, I think. Several people in this forum have commented on that article. Here is the link.....
Stock heads with upgraded springs, lifters, Stainless valves (3-angle VJ) and porting..
Comp 265DEH cam K-Kit (some of these parts are for the heads)
Weiand 8010 dual plane intake
Holley 600 carb
timing chain (comes with K-Kit) headers, true dual exhaust, maybe an MSD ignition setup.
I wanted to stay out of the bottom end of my engine, simply because I don't want to race the truck and I want to drive it every day. I just wanted something that would stand up and walk away from traffic when I hit it....unlike it does now...
I just want something with more guts than the laughable 140HP that it came with from Ford...
And that was with a fresh motor at that! I bet my worn out block is down around 100 horsies now. But hey, I can still break the tires loose...in the snow anyway! I can't wait to get done putting the new block in and seeing what a real truck this thing can be!
I have two 351/m's one in my truck and one in my shop. The one in the shop is getting a 400 crank and new pistons this summer I'm also going to try to follow the Hot Rod article. conservitivly I'll pulling 450hp and 480ft-lb If everything goes right!
They are March Pulleys for a 351W motor. They fit a 400, but you need to relocate the Alternator. I had a custom billet bracket made for the Alternator Support Bracket.
The bracket in the picture is not the final version. I am waiting for the final version, then I will install the radiator and connect the cooling system. Then if the rain stops, I will be on the road again.
Hey Danlee, what are the number in the low range? With those that motor will be a screamin'. I like the numbers but it would be a whole lot cooler if it were at 2000 rpm for the torque and 3500 for the hp and it had a flat band for the rest of the rpm range....
The torque at 2000 RPM is 425 ft-lbs. If you went to stock dished pistons to drop the compression ratio to 9.5:1 instead of the flattops that I used, you could use a Comp Cams 270HR or 260HR instead of the 281 degree cam that I am using. The shorter duration cams will increase the low end torque and flatten the curve. With the 260HR, you would definitly be in 93 Octane territory.
I'm going to keep my a low end grunter and give it a 265DEH.
I was wondering if switiching over to an electric fule pump is worth it? I have one on mine and it went out just a few weeks ago. It was a pain to fix. Does it improve performance? Or is it just a waste? Cost me 53 bucks compared to a manual one that will cost me 20 and last 100,000 miles compared to the electric one that might last me 2 years, if I'm lucky.
Last edited by coolmint94; Apr 2, 2004 at 11:07 AM.
I forgot, I am using a single plane intake. If you use dished pistons, dual plane intake, and a 270HR cam. The torque is 484@2000, 512@3500. The HP peak is 457@5500 RPM.
I prefer an electric fuel pump because the fuel pressure is regulated better than a mechanical pump. With a mechanical pump the pressure tends to increase with RPM. Some replacement pumps are not well regulated at all, and the fuel pressure can be great enough to overcome the needle valve in the carb. This causes the carb to flood at high RPM. Then your plugs foul, and your gas mileage drops.
I am sure that most mechanical pumps are OK, but this problem is very hard to diagnose, and can cause expensive, unneeded, replacements.
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