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1. How to figure where to mount the spring perch after cutting it off the top.
2. What is the proper pinion angle and where do you get the shims?
3. What can you use as new brackets on the bottom of the axle that the
U-bolts go through?
Feel free to share anything else I'm forgetting! I've got the notch figured out.
Perfect pinion angle is a nice goal. And if you miss like I did when I accidently out the shim in backward, take the truck for a ride and you might be surprised to learn that somewhere real close works just fine. Driveshaft balance seems to be just about as important.
So what happens if your pinion angle is off enough to matter? Will it just chew up the seal or will there be a mechanical failure? I'm hoping I'm not TOO big of an idiot and can pull through this okay.
So what happens if your pinion angle is off enough to matter? Will it just chew up the seal or will there be a mechanical failure? I'm hoping I'm not TOO big of an idiot and can pull through this okay.
Seal should not be involved. But you can get vibration that will drive you completely nuts. Get too far out and breakage is far more likely. Lifted 4x4 community deals with this problem all the time. Best just to get it close as possible. You're re-welding spring perches so there is no reason not to get it right.
Well you're right. Measure twice, weld once. I'm going to get Sacto Vintage Ford's mag, because I can't find their flip kit online. I want to try it the old way - FAB IT! I'll buy the individual parts from them if they let you, but this is a learning experience, and my first step into true customizing. Kinda like when the teachers make you do things the hard way first, so you know it, then show you the easy way!
proper pinion angle is determined by the angle of the output yoke of your trans or transfer case. with the vehicle on the ground and the drive shaft off, position the yoke so it is up and down. use a magnetic angle locator to measure this angle. what ever it is the pinion angle should be equal but opposite. so if your output yoke is -5 degrees, your pinion angle should be +5 degrees. this will result in your u-joints running parallel, which will reduce drive shaft vibes, especially in a half ton. since you are welding on new perches, there is no need for shims, as you can possition them where they need to be. this measurement should be taken with the vehicle on the ground. set your new perches in place and let the vehicle down. check your angle, lift vehicle, adjust housing up or down, lower and check. takes a while to do this. when you get the angles correct, weld the perches onto the tube with the weight of the vehicle on it. be sure the attach the ground near the weld area so as not to arc through any bearings. good luck, Jason
In theory, the centerline of the transmission output shaft and the centerline of the rear axle pinion shaft should be parallell when the vehicle is under load. A leaf spring suspension will accomodate a reasonable amount of axle twist when torque is applied to the pinion shaft, or to say it another way, the axle has a tendency to rotate upward when under load. The leaf springs will allow the pinion shaft to angle upward from 1 to 2 degrees when the vehicle is moving forward. For that reason, set the downward angle of the transmission output shaft to 4 degrees so the carburetor mounting flange is level with the ground, then adjust the upward angle of the pinion angle from 2 -3 degrees when the vehicle is static. When the vehicle is under power, deflection will allow the pinion to rotate from 1-2 degrees upward, aligning it with the transmission output shaft. All adjustments should be made with the suspension weighted.
Long winded explanation. Much easier to see in a diagram.
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