I don't really expect an answer to this question but here it is anyway. Whilst assembling and aligniing my sheetmetal for the twenty-eleventh time, I am running into a few issues. As in the bolts don't always line up. The front fenders to runningboard in this case. New cab mounts and repro panels out the wazoo so who knows if the holes are in the right spots in the new parts. Just thought it best to start from a cab that is mounted in the right spot before I start moving holes. Is there any way to tell for sure if the cab heaight is correct?

 

Best way is if all the holes line up

it should start lining up on 'bout the twenty-thirteenth time...

when you're mixing all those parts and pieces I don't think there is a snowballs chance that everything will fit properly... that's why they make unibits and shims.... buddy....

wish I had your problem


later

j

 

Hi "fenders, John,s right about not much chance of everything lineing up correctly. I would level the frame up front to back and side to side. I wound then install the cab level side to side and front to back. If the cab is level and square with the frame the rest should fit with a little shimming. Good luck, Ozzie

 

This is one of those deep questions that only one man might answer. We know that man and we miss that man when a seemingly unanswerable answer is needed. Handsome Bob does an admirable job keeping things running smoothly but he isn't the Ohio sage. Tough luck, 'fenders, I'll go measure and photo document that truck in my driveway if it will help. himmelberg

 

My 56 F250 has never been apart, so just let me know if you'd like me to break out the measuring tape.

I also miss Earl, BTW.

 

An approximate cab height off the frame would be nice, but I don't know how you would ever really get it. Even leveling the cab is guess work. Where's the flat spot to meausure off of. If someone can suggest a measuring procedure with some accuracy, I'd like to exchange info. I have a decent sheetmetal fit on my truck, but we didn't meet in the middle too well at the front of the running boards. It looks fine, but I suspect it isn't correct. My inquiring mind would like to know why?

And yes, the Ohio Sage surely has a plan. I can only surmise it involves laser levels, logarithms and the opening of one of Henry's sacred scrolls. (shamelessly hacked off the web of course, we got a budget you know)

 

seems to me that any measurement you make has to be relative to the frame so it doesn't matter if it's level or hanging from the wall... wheel size, tire size, inflation, suspension changes and moon phases would affect anything other than frame to body... and even then, condition of cab mounts, cushions etc will cause a little difference...

assuming ( yea I know what that does) the cab mounts are new or in good condition on both vehicles... seems a measurement from the top of the frame rail to the front fender mounting lip on the firewall or some other known standard would work... in the rear... top of frame to roof body seam on each side...

it's got to be close front to back unless the cab holes are wallowed out very badly but even then the rear mounts would hold it pretty close front to back...

how much are you off anyway. ??? this ain't Earl we're dealing with . Hey wait.... do you have a GPS ???

I'll measure whatever you want on mine just let me know... then we can triangulate with Cuz and taking into consideration azimuth and vertical angle correction... we can adjust yours probably in the range of 1 or 2 clicks ???

later
j (close enough to be cool)

 

OK, so we don't need George. Are we assuming that the top of the frame rail is at waterline zero? With this we could compile many hundreds of measurements, put it in John's computer, and come up with the world's best guess. If it stops raining, I'll get out there and try to measure the two points you mentioned, John, as rain in the desert seems to disorient us dwellers. damply. himmelberg

 

Since the subject is open, I need to replace the rubber cab mounts on my 54. Paint was done by p.o., still ok, but not disassembly type job. Don't really want to remove fenders unless I just have too. Working in the great outdoors on the gravel is .... waiting for the sun to shine.
Would it be possible to loosen the front (rad support) , and cab mounts, lift enough to R&R the rubber. I guess just about anything is possible as far as that goes, but is this just too far out of reality to be doable ? Like to keep cab as level as possible but more concerned with totally blown out orig. rubber at this point.
54at50

 

Yes Peter, the top of the frame is sea level. We definitely need to measure from the top of the frame. And we need to avoid anything that might be saggy after 50 years like the sheet metal floorboard.


John,

I'm off damn near an inch I bet. Looks fine but want it a little closer to Hoyle. Equipment is not a problem. Us Artillery folk have lots of global positioning systems. I know precisely where the truck is located on this earth +/- 1 meter. But the running board hole is still off just a bit.

 

DeWayne...

since I don't know how much metal you have on the truck and what points are accessible I made several measurements. I'm working from a bare cab on the frame. Maybe some of these will help...

the truck is at approximately 632 ft above sea level and approximately 3 ft inside my garage door... my mailbox post is about 32" high to the bottom of the box

here goes... pay attention... you will be tested later


at the front cabmount... measuring straight up to the cab floor from the top of frame to bottom of cab 1.25"

at the rear cab mount... again measuring straight up from the top of frame to bottom of cab 1.50"..but remember the cab floor jumps up to make a ridge behind the seat... so it's really the same as the front...



from the front edge of the cab...lower cab corner




from the front point where it flattens out and is spot welded together... to the front edge of the running board mount 8-3/8" (I would have said 8.375 but it would have confused you)

where the innerfenders attach to the firewall there is a flange that sticks out from the firewall... from the front edge of that I dropped a plumb bob and measured back to the front edge of the running board mount...



it measured 17.5 "

from the back of the cab to the front rivet in the center cross member (the arched stamped one) 12.5 "

from the firewall (smooth face not the raised ribs) to the rear rivet on the front crossmember 33"

from the roof of my garage to the top of my cab.... 19.345 " with the truck up on jackstands in the third notch..

the temperature is approx 60° F so correction to measurements aren't necessary... the relative humidity is 48%. barometric pressure 30.09 and falling with wind out of the NW at 6mph

aside from all the nonsense... hope some of these numbers will tell you something... let me know if you need more

J.

BTW... I need coordinated for Cuz's place for the triangulation formula

 

I put a square at the bottom of the frame rail adjacent to the rear cab mount, pushed it up against the floor of the cab, and marked where it met the top of the frame with a pencil. Came to 1 3/4 inches, top of frame to bottom of cab. Same deal at the front, just aft of the leaf spring. In the middle, the floor appears to have sagged a good 1/2 inch from stompin' on it.

 

John and Rob

Getting time for bed but I flew out for a quick measure. I appear to be about 1 1/2 in front and 2 at the rear. Not exactly the same from left to right either. I think my cab is in a slight rightward nosedive. I need to get it a little closer for a good panel fit. I may be looing at shimming the RF cab mount. I also need to spend some more time ciphering John's other numbers before I jump to conclusions.

Anyone else who cares to measure...........

This number will be handier to know than you may currently realize when you start hanging new sheetmetal. Five minutes of your time would be appreciated if you could give us a measure. Especially if you are blessed with an unrepaired floor at the cab mount location. Which I am not.