I posted earlier in the year about a rear end?. Promised to let people know of progress. Changed back cab corners, still have work to do on them. Finally pick up replacement bed. Tanks all cleaned up and undercoated and installed(still have to buy new send units to put in). Frame under bed cleaned up and undercoated. Changed cab bushings. Knew radiator support needed to be changed but was going to do that later until I broke the bolts on the front bushings, bought good used support at local yard. Tranny done, TransCase done, all u-joints done. Put rear end change on hold due to other unforseen problems causing delay on getting this project on the road. Still haven't looked at the Dana 44 yet . Have to get new rotors anyway. Still along way to go, hope to have this on the road by the end of May. My '84 is about to give up the ghost, dumping all $$$ and time into '88.

 

Sounds like you have gotten a lot done. You should put some pics up to show all the work. Keep on keepin' on...

 

Put some pics in gallery today. 1988 F150. Picked up new radiator support today. Going to put in next few days and get back to work on the body. Mounted power antenna, haven't hooked up wires yet. Cleaned up frame where radiator sits and undercoated. Next step, tackle radius arm bushing, then leaf springs. Oh and sanding.

 

Ok, been doing some research on engine. Was going to put in 302HO but conversion estimated around $5000. Looked in to 351W Stroker ran about $3500. Found '96 Lightning engine for $400. Don't know condition as of yet being it's Sunday. Can anyone give me some info on this engine. I found some info on the heads and intakes but nothing as to type of cam(roller?). Also know I have to change computer but found that most or all of the lightnings came with auto, want to stay with M/T 5spd. Will computer from F250 work? Couldn't find Mustang computer for 5.8L, does it matter? Any info would be greatly appreciated. TIA.

 

OK, posed this question in the "Engine Swap" forum. Nobody as of yet has been able to answer. Why do the FI engines have a fuel return system?
When I do my swap, I am puttng the 302 in the '84 which doen't have this.

 

Install radiator support today and all the attaching gear, have head lights and grille left. Leaving them off till painted. This thing was easier to take out than put in. Still haven't got an answer from the previous post. Don't tell I stumped everyone. Or, could it be no one wants to tell me?

 

OK, had to put rush job on truck. '84 bit the dust. Finished installing bushing kit. Radius arms were a B@$ch to put in especially the R/H side. Had to remove mount and install bolts. Had front realigned. Installed new windshield. Got all paper work done and now street legal. Been driving a few days. Rides rough with new HyperFlex bushings. Steering response great. Bought new rotors and pads for front brakes. Will replace those in next few days. Also, while driving, noticed that running on front tank, it quit using fuel just above half way. Out of curiosity, I switched to the rear and the dang thing was almost "empty". Go figure. Ordered new DFR from Ford, hope that fixes it. Going to replace high pressure pump, front tank pump and fuel filter also. When I changed the sending units, I put a new pump in the rear tank due to the fact that this is a hard tank to access and put one of the older pumps in the front tank. Should have spent the Xtra $30 and installed new one. Front pump is intermittent and only at idle.
Bought good used 351W for future build up to replace the 302. If anyone is interested, so far I have about $3500 invested in this truck including purchase price of $800.
Also bought conversion kit for A/C to switch to R134. Have alot to do the next couple of weeks. Got to get this thing mechanically sound and put body work on hold for awhile.

 

Body work is still on hold. Finally installed the 9" rear end, will have to do ring and pinion soon. The 9" has 2.75 gears, so 4WD is out of commision for the moment. The engine I purchased was trashed. 1 rod was thrown and another had a spun bearing. The engine had evidence of overheating due to "lack of oil". I bought a good used "89 F250 with the 351W and ZF Tranny 2WD for a donor vehicle. My job has been slowing this project down alot since I had to put the truck on the road for use.

 

Loosmaster,

EFI engines (multiport or tbi) have a fuel return system because, the fuel pump sends a prodigious amount of fuel to the fuel rail so the injectors have all they need. The catch is, that the injectors' requirements vary. The fuel pumps are fixed displacement. The fuel pressure regulator maintains a constant pressure in the rail, by allowing the extra fuel to go on by, if it didn't allow extra fuel to go past, the pressure would immediately go to the max pump pressure. That would be bad for 2 reasons. 1- Your fuel pressure would be too high much of the time, and would be constantly changing (driveability would suck). The second reason (2) is that it's not good to dead head a pump like that, it puts too much load back to the pump and you can burn it out.

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks for the reply but I fixed that one along time ago. It was a broken wire on the pump in the tank.

 

Well I finally got the ball rolling on this project again. The engine I bought awhile back turned out to be crap after I disassembled it. Had 2 spun connecting rod bearings, 1 broken rod and a chunk missing out of the skirt wall of a cylinder. And as you would expect the junkyard wouldn't give me my money back or credit me for another(I went somewhere else after that). I found an F250 with 89,000 original miles on it. Had the 351W and a ZF 5 speed tranny but 2WD. Got the engine torn down and everything was still able to go back standard sizes except there was some heavy rust on 2 of the cylinder walls and I'll have to have the block oversized. Also got some good body parts, such as fenders, springs and wiring harness.

 

Got my 351W together.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...1&albumid=9460

Now to remove the pooped out 302 this weekend and install the 351W with computer and harness. Wish me luck.

 

Well, the 351W is in but not running yet. I had to install the ZF tranny because my pilot bearing on the 302 went out and ruined the input shaft bearing on the Mazda M5R2 and I didn't want to invest time and money in it due to putting the ZF in later. Also had to modify the aft shaft(shorten) due to the difference in size of the larger F250 rear end. I'm having major trouble with the chassis wiring connector pin arrangement. Before I started, I checked my manual for differences in wire colors between the '88 F150 and the '90 F250 and they were pretty much the same. I hooked up the new harness and some things worked and some didn't. My head lights would come on when I turned the key to run then turn off 3 seconds later. I could hear a relay click when this happened. After doing some initial investigating, I found the pin arrangements were not the same. So I tried to move them as they were on the old harness. Naturally, some of the retainer clips broke and wouldn't hold the wires in. This is where the nightmare begins. I marked and removed all the wires from the old harness to use the forward chassis side plug. After almost 4 days of trying to figure this out, I have about 10 out of 48 wires I can't find where they go. For some reason I can't get my hi pressure pump and fuel tank pumps to run. The '90 has FDM's and the '88 has low pressure pumps. The only difference is on the '88 my hi pressure pump is wired into the inertia switch. But it isn't in reality. The manual shows a jumper going to the inertia switch from the fuel pump relay. This is not the case, the wire only went to the computer pin. I installed a jumper and it's still an NO GO. I can get 12 volts from the wire on the relay in original condition but when I install the jumper, I only get 2.5 volts to the pump. I thought maybe the newer relay couldn't handle the voltage but it still has to power the FDM's with the same voltage. Needless to say, I have a rebuilt engine with an upgraded harness and virtually nothing works. I have only 3 days left before I go back to work and I need to get this thing running. Any insights would help.

 

Quote: "The manual shows a jumper going to the inertia switch from the fuel pump relay. This is not the case, the wire only went to the computer pin. I installed a jumper and it's still an NO GO. I can get 12 volts from the wire on the relay in original condition but when I install the jumper, I only get 2.5 volts to the pump. I thought maybe the newer relay couldn't handle the voltage but it still has to power the FDM's with the same voltage."

The computer supplies enough voltage and current to energize the coil in the relay and the relay contacts handle the current for the pump to run. If when you hook up the pump to 12 volts through the relay, and the voltage drops to 2.5v then something is loaded down at the pump or high resistence in the circuit.

Could be the relay contacts have a high resistance across the contacts, the wire is too small (doubtful), or the pump is bad. Will the pump spin when connected directly to the battery? Yes then measure the resistance of the relay contacts.

Disconnect the pump wires from the relay, energize the relay to close the contacts, measure the resistance across the contacts where the pump was attached. They should read 0 ohms, anything else 2,3,7,10 ohms or more get a new one. Try another relay, many of the relays are the same. Look at the model or p/n's on the relay to find a matching one. Do the same test and if it passed try it with the pump.

Hope this helps.

 

The relay has 4 connections:
Yellow - Comes from Batt side of starter solenoid.
Red - Comes from ECC relay.
LtBlu/ORG - Goes to Self Test OutPut then to pin 22 on the computer for Fuel Pump.
DkGrn/Yellow(actually it's orange on the harness) - To pin 8 on computer(FPM) and jumped after relay to inertia switch.

The relay has power applied to it when you put the key in the Run position and it closes. Power is also on the wire going to the Fuel Pump. I'm not the greatest electrician. I get confused if a component has more that 2 wires on it. I don't think you can measure resistance while power is allpied to a contact. You can measure voltage and amperage.

I was able to get power to the computer and run the codes, they are as follows:

KOEO: 87,87
CM: 95,95

87-Fuel pump primary circuit failure. When the FP relay was activated by the EEC, voltage was not detected on the control circuit.

95-Fuel pump secondary circuit failure. The EEC senses infinite resistance to ground from the fuel pump on the Fuel Pump Monitor Circuit.

I think 95 and your statement "If when you hook up the pump to 12 volts through the relay, and the voltage drops to 2.5v then something is loaded down at the pump or high resistence in the circuit." I possibly may have a connection on the chassis plug somehow attached to a ground circuit. Before I even started switching wires around, the pumps didn't work.

The Hi Pressure pump will work when directly connected to the battery but it does sound like it's straining. This is a new pump I put on last year.

GGEEEEZZZZ I hate electricity.