I just installed two new door lock actuators (the old style with the rivet and rod) I did not have them before and did a conversion and was able to install them without taking out the latch. One actuator I installed was used from a junk yard and didn't work and I was able to remove it too - they were difficult to turn the hook in and out of the plastic clip in the latch hole but I was able to do it - so if you fool around with it enough you should be able to change them without without messing with the latch and window track.

Quick question though - do you think the autolock function leads to premature faliure? I did notice my new actuators differ in appearance from the old used one I had that didn't work all the time so maybe its an improved design. I really don't want to change those actuators out for a LOOONG time so I'm curious if I should bother disabling the autolock feature or not???

 

Its just a rivet. Knock, drill, whatever you need to do to remove it and put a new rivet in its place or bolt it in. Ive seen folks say they glue a nut to the bracket.

 

The new design has a threaded stud fixed to it already - so all you need is a 1/4 inch nut I belive to thread onto the outside and you're good to go. I prefer the type that are a bolt/washer combo just tighten it on there and you're good to go. No more riveting needed. At least thats how mine came.

 

I already got the rivet itself out. The black piece that goes through the door into the bracket and then splits itself out is snapped in half so putting a new rivet on won't do any good because there's nothing to hold the bracket on the door. I'll take a pic of what's left and post it.

I guess I could use a nut and bolt setup but how would you tighten it without the bolt spinning. That's not exactly an easy spot to fit a ratchet. On another note wouldn't the nut stick out too far? The black piece that was on the door before is very low profile.

 

A picture would help a lot since I cant see what the problem is.

 

There is a barrel shaped plunger switch located in such a way that the actuator would not come off of the lock mechanism on my 2000 f-150.I finally figured out how to remove the switch.You pry the plastic piece under the body of the switch and then press down the switch and rotate to remove.The switch has a locking finger on it that can be seen if observed closely.Removing this switch allows the actuator to be removed now because it is out of the way.

 

Interesting, Ive done hundreds of actuators on the F150 and never had to remove the door ajar switch. Is yours a Super Crew or other? Super Crew has the actuator with the rod linkage rather than the lever and that may be the difference.

 

My truck is a 2000 f-150,2 wheel drive,Lariat with a keypad for entry.I dont know if this has a bearing on the issue.I am working on the driver side.
Working on the lock mechinism,completly removed from the door and the barrel switch pointing upward,the barrel switch was located in a way that prevented the actuator from sliding out of its metal bracket.I just kept tinkering with it and found that the switch could be removed by prying the plastic away slightly to release the switch lock so it could be rotated and removed.After removing the barrel switch,I then pryed the plastic that locked the actuator in place and removed the actuator.
I took the actuator apart by drilling out two rivets on the actuator and prying it apart.
The little dc motor is the problem that is located inside the actuator.I am on a mission to locate a motor to fix but have not had much luck.Have you ever replaced just the motor?$50.00 is too much for $5.00 worth of plastic gears.

 

I used the procedure above by Homerwinzlow and it worked perfectly on my 2000 f150 XLT. No rivets or rods to remove. Thanks.

The only suggestion I would make is to remove the wire connector after the actuator is removed and hanging outside the door. I then reconnected it first before reinstalling the actuator. I found it easier to connect and reconnect while it was outside the door cavity.

There is also a procedure for fixing the actuator rather than replacing it at :
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...cks-fixed.html

 

Thank You for the info.This I am sure will work.I will try it today.The symptoms I have are exactly as described.
I noticed the thermal resister when I took the motor apart but did not explore it.I finally gave up and bought a new one for the driver side.I will fix the passenger side now with this fix.Save $50.00.
Thank You so much

 

I am having trouble visualizing some of the instructions on removing the door actuators. When you say look for the black plastic tab in the latch, is that looking at the end of the door or through one of the round holes in the inner door skin? Does the actuator move towards the outer door skin when you pop it with the screwdriver, or does it move towards the inner door handle?
Thanks for any help

Jim

 

It has been almost 2 years since I repaired mine.I dont think all of the acuators are the same or mounted exactly the same.
Basically:Remove the screws that hold the actuator to the door.
Remove the window guide bolt/nut nearest to the actuator being removed.
I think the inner door handle can be removed by removing a screw and sliding the mechanism forward.
Seems like I had to remove the manual linkage on one end.
I eventually got the entire actuator/lock mechanism completly out of the door.
Then it is somewhat trial and error to get the actuator out of the mechanism to take it apart.
I know this is not much.I know I could do it again but it is hard to explain without pics. Good Luck

 

Thanks to everybody that has contributed to this thread. I finally got the first one out This is a great forum.

 

I just replaced my son's lock actuators on both doors on his 1999 F150. First advice - start with the passenger door. That way when you break something it is on the door you rarely use. I started by popping the rods off the mechanism and unplugging the electrical connectors. When I popped of the key lock bar at the top, I broke the plastic retainer. My son said we could super glue it and I though I might just use a zip tie (When I put it back together it still works without glue or tie.) After lots of work, I wrestled the lock mechanism out to where I could remove the actuator. I put the new one on and reinstalled it all. It took few times screwing the latch back on, then off again after I realized I could not attach something else. All in all, it works. When I went to the second door, I finally thought about it and re-read what was written above.

I removed the bolt (11mm) for the window channel and pulled the channel a few inches out of the way.

I put my flat blade screwdriver in between the metal flange and the actuator near the top. I twisted the screwdriver and the actuator popped off! Too easy. Not a single plastic connector was maimed.

I extracted the actuator and remove the electrical connector. I noticed that the tab on the old actuator was broken slightly but it was now garbage anyway.

I took the new actuator and pushed the connector back onto it.

I lined up the upper and lower grooves on the actuator with the metal flange. I made sure that the arm on the actuator matched up with the hole on the lock mechanism. I pushed it on. Simple. Done. Put the one bold back in the window channel bar and put the door panel back on.

The first door took an hour and a half. The second door took 15 minutes. I wish that I had taken some pictures so that you can avoid what I did.

I ordered the actuators off of Ebay for $19.75 each. Although they looked a little different, they work. Son thinks I am a genius.

Total time: 2 hours.
Total time if done right the first time: 30 minutes.

I can fix anything. But I always break something along the way.
LBJATTY

 

watch this video and it'' be a snap to change out the actuator - mine is a 2002 F-150 but it's exactly the same actuator and procedure - only difference is in removing door panel but there's a video for that too

How To Install Replace Door Lock Actuator Ford Ranger 99-10 1AAuto.com - YouTube