I dont know what these other guys are talking about... must be a different type actuator... I have a '97 f-150 4x4. I was pying this and that, and so on and getting nowhere.... After you get the door panel off (which is pretty easy) the actuator is mounted on the lower left of the door. Theres a goldish looking "pin" sticking through, and a round silver piece about 1/4 inch across with what looks like a threaded bolt in it. Start by prying the electrical connector "flap" open at the back of the connector, and pull it down. Take a punch and a hammer, and give that small threaded bolt looking thing a medium smack and it should fly out. Drill out the silver piece. Hold it still with small channel locks. I dont want to say its a rivot, because it does'nt look like one. Im guessing thats what it is though. After you drill it out, you need to twist the rod towards the front of the truck to get out of the hole. Don't remove any window tracks, or any other rods, or anything. Good luck finding a replacement part anywhere except a ford dealership. Junk yards dont want to piece complete doors out unless you are willing to pay almost new prices for it.

 

Yes the earlier F150 uses the rivet mounted actuator with long rod attached to the latch. This was changed to the type these other guys are talking about which is direct mounted to the latch around 2000. The Expedition and Super Crew still use the earlier style.

 

I guess that is a rivot... funny looking rivot... I figured I would avoid any confusion from someone with the same (older) set up... I wasted a good 30 minutes trying to pry something apart that was never meant to come apart that way !!!

By the way... do you happen to know where the low pressure switch for the a/c on a 1997 f-150 is ? I havent looked yet, but if it can save some time....

 

Yep, Im gonna have to take a picture of it and put on my computer because people ask this a lot. It is part of the accumulator which is mounted on the firewall, passenger side, behind all the electrical spaghetti..

 

A picture would be great... But if its not possible, i appreciate the direction plenty... at least i know where to start looking. I have to try to "jump" it, and see if my compressor will run. It has a habit of cutting out after 10-15 minutes, and appears to be fully charged.

 

2000 F-150 XLT 4x2

Anybody in Austin, Texas want to replace a couple door lock actuators for me?

If not, what tools do I need?
What parts do I need and can I get them somewhere other than a Ford 'ship but still a physical location? And what is a good web store alternative?
What is the step by step?

 

You can get the lock actuators through Y2Kford parts. Click on parts catalog, then under mechanicla parts drill down put in your truck infomation. Then click on these items in order. Electrical , Body electrical ,Door ,Lock actuator. $64.30 each. There are some good step-by-step instructions on the first page of this thread.

 

I'm going to try and replace both actuators on my 2000 F150 4x4 today. Anyone got any do's and don'ts. I'm replacing them with ford oem parts. Thanks AFordMan

 

............ and everyone assumes the "AutoLock" function is for your safety. They just sell more lock actuators now!

I know, I'm NOT helping here but it looks like some folks could use a grin about now!

 

Well I got them changed out with hardley no trouble except, after I got the driver's door finished the window is binding someplace in the track. The only thing I can figure is when I loosen the window track and removed it out of the way so I could get the actuator changed, it is binding there. I have worked on it for about a hour and I can't figure it out. If anyone has a idea, please let me know. The window goes down about 1/4 of the way and stops. With help I can get it to go all the way down, but then I have to help it go back up.

 

Hey AFordMan, I replaced the actuators today and I had the same problem with the window binding on the driver's side. I heard a pop when I moved the track out of the way so I had a hint as to the cause. On the top of the track there is a tab that has to slide to the outside of the upper track, near the bottom of the window when the window is up. I could barely see it but found it by feel. Right now the tab is causing the lower track to be too close and resulting in that bind. Pull down on the lower track an pry the tab so it slips to the outside of the upper track and your window should work properly again.

 

tampatech is giving you good direction. The window track has two sections on that side but the rubber part is one continous piece. The lower section slides into the channel of the upper section and the spring clip which is riveted to the back side of the lower section sits behind the upper channel when you slip them together. This spring clip holds the two sections securely at the joint. Sometimes it helps to tilt the lower section in, then grasp the spring clip with the other hand and pull out on the clip as you guide the lower section up into the upper sections channel. It is of course a tight fit and may take a few tries but you will get it. Then once the clip and channels are in the right configuration you can install the bolt into the lower section and be done. Then the window wont bind in the run as tampatech has pointed out.

 

Tampatech, Thanks for the great advise! My son and I figured it out. Now I can open and lock both doors again and both windows are working. Thanks again for all your help!

 

Don't buy new actuators! Fix the ones you have for .01 cent. I fixed my PDLs today from the information in this thread.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...light=tin+foil

 

I've got the rivet style mount on my '01 Explorer. Somehow the black piece that shows on the outside of the door managed to snap off so the actuator was just hanging inside the door. Obviously I'm going to have to punch out the silver piece at which point the black piece will just pop right out since it's now snapped off from the side holding it into the door.

Does anyone know where I could get just the pieces needed to hold the mount into the door? Is the silver piece that has the head on the inside of the door just a standard rivet?

I'd really hate to have to buy a whole new actuator setup just for those 2 pieces.

Update: I managed to punch out the leftover black piece and the silver piece with a hammer and the end of a socket driver. Popped right out.