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I have a '96 Bronco and the problem I'm having is when the truck is cold it drives excellent but once it warms up I'll start to get banging noise from take off and when I come to a complete stop. I can't tell if it's the transmission or the rear end. The driveshaft is fine. If anyone had this problem or can help me narrow down the problem I'd appreciated.
Well a good test to see if the spider gears are junk is by making a tight turn either left or right slowly. If you feel the rear end buckle its the spider gears. I have a 93 bronco and I had this clunking sound constantly (more so after I went wheeling) I ended having this mysterious clunking sound and it was more pronounced when making turns. I found after taking off the rear diff that i was missing teeth of my spider gears. Ended up replacing my rear spider gears its not too hard. Just look on the internet for 8.8 traction lock rebuild and there are some good sites. I think i found on one of the mustang websites a configuration where you adjust your clutch packs in a more aggressive pack (ie: clutch, steel ring, clutch, steel ring, clutch, steel ring, clutch: instead of clutch, ring, ring, clutch, ring, ring, clutch). I was able to get all parts from ford for like 120 and then buy all the fluid and the slip modifier. Good luck.
Thanks 4x,
I wasn't getting that kind of problem on turns, only from stop and go. I'll look into the clutch packages, if they're shot I guess the clunk would be from the clutch slippage.
Did you rebuild your own 8.8 rearend?
Same problem on my 95. I replace the gear oil with synthetic and put in the limited slip additive. It went away for a week or two and then came back just no where near as severe. I would start with the oil change and then if it doesn't improve, go with a rebuild. Good Luck!
Do a search - this is discussed often here. First thing to check is the slip joint. Most people report this clunk disappears after a good greasing. For me, in my 95, that didn't help, and I also have the problem after it warms a bit. The only relief I ever got was after changing the variable speed sensor on top of the rear diff. Clunk went away for several months, but is now back.
I had this problem, inspected the spiders and they were hamburger. couldnt get a repair kit, and all the local yards wanted 250 for a rear carrier. so I did a 9" swap an got rid of the 8.8 p.o.s . spent a total of 200 for this setup. now i have a much stronger rear end and easier to upgrade to. the 8.8 just doesnt belong under our heavy rigs. check out my superford site for pics of swap.
Great news and I want to thank you all in helping me narrow the problem down. I did the rear gear oil change and used synthetic oil plus limited slip additive. The old oil was not topped off at the fill level. I took the slip joint apart and gave it some high temp synthetic lube. Drove it around till she got warm and no more problem. What a relief!!! Thought it might be the tranny if that wasn't the problem.
Thanks again everybody..........
I had this problem, inspected the spiders and they were hamburger. couldnt get a repair kit, and all the local yards wanted 250 for a rear carrier. so I did a 9" swap an got rid of the 8.8 p.o.s . spent a total of 200 for this setup. now i have a much stronger rear end and easier to upgrade to. the 8.8 just doesnt belong under our heavy rigs. check out my superford site for pics of swap.
Just wondering after 6 months of use...how's the 9" holding up?
I need to get a rear for my 87 F-150 due to the pumpkin is sagging...looks like it is ready to fall on the ground.....lolol. Axle tubes are a tad bent and it's killing my tires....wearing out back tires in less then 3000 miles.
Whimpy 8.8 rearend? According to Super Rod , Jan 2004 the internals are nearly identical to those of a Chevy 12 bolt. Some beefing up in some areas and the ring gear is just 0.075 inch smaller in diameter. About the only other difference is the bolts holding the cover on the chev had 12 3/8-inch fine-thread bolts with 9/16-inch heads whereas the 8.8 has just 10 but they are larger 7/16-inch with a 3/4-inch head. "the pinion bearing surfaces are the same, as are the yoke spline counts, but the pinion bearing body on the 8.8 are stoughter." The article is written with the advice of Ultimate Driveline in Shelbyville, Michigan. They say when built properly the 8.8 can withstand 700 to 800hp. The article is eye opening to say the least. Another added bouns with the 8.8 is you can swap on the Lightnings 13-inch rotors for some serious braking power.
the 9 is holding up really well. was the best $100 bucks spent. its got alot of options and doing a gear swap is gonna be cake walk. just finding a 3rd member with the gears that i want.
towman your right about the 8.8 once its beefed up it will handle what we put it through but that goes for most things. the nice thing about the 9" is there isnt much that needs to be done to it. it will handle alot with out dumping alot of money into it an parts are easy to come by. i also like the fact that if an axle breaks you can still drive home. not the case with the 8.8
but it can be a good rear end dont get me wrong
That's the whole problem with the 8.8 rearend. It's not built from the factory. Sure it rates up there with a 12 bolt what you stated, but that carrier? Oh come now, I blew mine up just barely doing some light offroading with an I6 in my F150.
Want to help that 8.8 survive:
Weld the axletubes to the diff chunk so they don't spin under torque
Get a Detriot locker.
That should help it hold up to the stresses of everyday life.
The 8.8 is a turd in comparison to the 9... sure sure it's only .2 inches bigger you say...thats not the half of it. Besides ring gear diameter, in some cases it is as strong and beefier than the dana 60. Sure can do alot to the 8.8 to make it stronger, but why? You can build up a 9" to be more than the 8.8 could ever be for less.