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you guys really know your stuff, i'm such a beginner. I have a 94, 302 and I have this same thud or cluck when i start and come to a complete stop. (i always thought it was a bad tranny mount or my radius arm bushings were bad and letting the radius arm slide back and forth a little.) I'd like to try changing the oil in the rear to synthetic, adding the limited slip additive and also lubricating the slip joint see if my problem goes away....Is there a diagram or somehting somewhere that points where the heck the slipjoint is? (lol!!! I realize i'm an idiot!)
Relax I'm not saying any thing bad about the 9". I was just saying that the 8.8 can't that bad if the 12 bolt could last behind 454, 396 and 427s in big boats like chevelle wagons. And the 8.8 is basicly a stronger version of the 12 bolt espiecally the 31 spline axles. Also since the 8.8 has been around for 22 yrs so far parts should be relitively easy to find. I'm not comparing it to the 9" in any way. But if you want stronger in stock form go to the Dana 60, 70, 80 sterling 10.25 or or or....Oh well no biggie!
you guys really know your stuff, i'm such a beginner. I have a 94, 302 and I have this same thud or cluck when i start and come to a complete stop. (i always thought it was a bad tranny mount or my radius arm bushings were bad and letting the radius arm slide back and forth a little.) I'd like to try changing the oil in the rear to synthetic, adding the limited slip additive and also lubricating the slip joint see if my problem goes away....Is there a diagram or somehting somewhere that points where the heck the slipjoint is? (lol!!! I realize i'm an idiot!)
John, the rubber boot on the rear driveshaft is where your slipjoint is. I've used a good antiseize compound because of the higher temperature it'll handle. You can use a good high-temp synthetic grease and most important of all replace the clamp with the same type clamp (keystone clamp). Zip ties are not strong enough, grease will end up spitting out. Good luck.
thanks for the help. I'm gonna get under there and change the rear gear oil like you suggested and grease the slip joint. I hope it solves my problem. What gear oil did you use? I've heard that Royal Purple is the best, but i'd like to replicate your results exactly if possible! let me know. thanks
John, I've used Mobil 1 synthetic and I think the weight was 75W-90. I got the friction modifier at a local speed shop but before you put that stuff in make sure you have a limited slip rear otherwise you don't need it. Your driver's side door sticker will have the axle code; H9=3.55 limited slip or 19=3.55.
I changed the gear oil and greased the slip joint and the problem is solved. thanks very much for everyone's help. It's smooth as silk now. I torqued all the differential cover bolts to 40 lbs. and wouldn't you know it, the last bolt broke off. so now i can't wait to try to remove it. oh well, one step forward two steps back! thanks again.
the Haynes manual gives a range of between 30-40 lbs. i was dumb and should have picked a nice nnumber like 35, but instead i'm dumb and picked 40 b/c the torque wrench was already on 40, (and I'm lazy.) I learned a good lesson, but the truck does start and stop really smooth with no clunk now, thanks to you.