When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have seen some people do some very poor rebuilds and beat the crap out of them and they never quit. I think it is luck here. I watched a guy coat his head gaskets in silicon blue and they lasted a couple weeks. He was one that couldn't be told right from wrong so I let him figure it out the hard way. I think Greg has just had some bad luck. I have had some bumps in the road with my 390 but never in the bottom end. I have been nothing but overly impressed with it there. I have broken rocker shafts and bent pushrods but that has all been remedied.
I your case Brian I would probably be hiding in the corner too. You have a whole lot to loose there over a silly mistake. I think you will be just fine though. It sounds like you have a good bunch of help there.
Did you check your ring gap Greg or did you get the short block ready to go from flatlander? I don't think the lack of oil caused the scratches.
I just pulled my engine because of a bad flex plate that was all of a month old. got a replacement. But I left the engine on the stand.I have had alot of trouble with this engine. As you know. I have gotten over the need to get finished now. And I am taking my time and doing some things over. I learned to take my time. Do things right the first time. Enjoy the project. Let it go as fast or as slow as it needs. It won't be running anytime soon but that is O.K. Hang in there and remember why we do this.
Were the oil holes on the rocker shaft from the bad side pointed down? I feel your pain. I lost a 427so when the lemans rod broke buy the piston pin. Then I built a 428 that blew when the eagle rod let loose because of rod bolt failure. I built a 428 PI now for my 69. ED heads and RPM intake. Good luck Tim R.
in the for what its worth catagory, my poor mans rebuild came apart last night while i was towing a friends truck, a cheby, it started rattling as i came in the drive way and broke a rod thru the side of the block as I shut it off . now that its not 25 below zero , and I have a parts chaser truck , and my fingers arent freezing ,etc.etc.etc... Im going to also take my time and do a less hurried up job. I know for a fact , that it wouldnt have lasted as long as it had , if it hadnt been for the good info that I got from this forum . thanks again , and good luck, respectfully ,bob
Funny. I had seen that article before and took the author's word seriously when they pointed to the spun bearing on number 7. But in retrospect, I wonder if that piston through the cylinder wall is the source of the 'dynamic disassembly'; overbored the block too much and the cylinder wall failed.
I feel your pain Greg. I hope you can pull yourself up by the boot straps and find your way back into the garage again.
If you want to see what happens when a cast 428 crank decides it's lifespan has expired.....Racing webpage
Down at the bottom of the page is a picture of what was left of my block. You'll notice the rear of it MISSING
The crank was in 5 pieces . It let go at 6200 rpm in second gear. The motor had 50 passes on it after a freshen up and the crank had been mag'd for cracks(alot of good that did huh?). When it's time.....it's time. It was a $7000 paper weight. The only parts useable were the pushrods, heads, intake. It took 3 months to gather enough parts to build another motor.
Finding a reputable machine shop to work on these motors is tough. Luckily I have one in my town. He does ALOT of performance FE's from all around the state. Beside my little crank problem I have never had an issue with anything he has machined.
...
One thing I didn't see mentioned here yet is the pushrod to manifold clearance. When I was putting mine together I noticed that a few of my pushrods were actually contacting the sides of the pushrod holes in my E'bok Performer RPM manifold. It was nothing that the die grinder couldn't fix before assembly. I think I had my intake on and off two or three times before final assembly.
Hey MLF... where's the audio of your motor running? You do know that all new engines being built..the sound had to pass the site board!! LMAO!-JK- Russ...
Hey MLF... where's the audio of your motor running? You do know that all new engines being built..the sound had to pass the site board!! LMAO!-JK- Russ...
Ha! Just let me know where to post the file. And ask my unfortunate neighbors! I think it really shakes the glass out of their windows.
(Actually, I have to catch the engine between times when the rockers loosen up. Ten minutes of running and I had 0.125" valve lash -- twice. I'm the process of either tightening up the OEM adjustable rockers or finding new aftermarket ones.)
).125 valve lash! Dam... With the lifter completely depressed (all the oil out) you should have between .100 to .200 between the lifter and the tip of the rocker..
You should bleed your lifters and check each one for clearance! if the between those two marks they should pump up fine.....If they dont? you in for longer pushrods until you can bring them in un-pumped to that tolerance..JMO-Russ
).125 valve lash! Dam... With the lifter completely depressed (all the oil out) you should have between .100 to .200 between the lifter and the tip of the rocker..
You should bleed your lifters and check each one for clearance! if the between those two marks they should pump up fine.....If they dont? you in for longer pushrods until you can bring them in un-pumped to that tolerance..JMO-Russ
Not hydraulic -- Solid lifters.
The adjusting screws wouldn't stay put.
I have oversize screws on order and I'm looking into an aftermarket system.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.