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I am looking to purchase my first Ford Truck, it is a 2000 F250 with the V10 and auto 4x4. The truck is in near perfect condition but I have a question about what I think is a problem. When I go to use the Auto button it won't go in to 4X4 unless I put the hubs in lock. Once the hub is in lock it will go in and out of 4x4. Please let me know if this is an issue and what do think could be wrong, I would also like to know how much it would cost to resolve the issue.
The F250 SC has 60,000 miles and looks like new, it is an XLT with a V10 and has a hard tonneau cover, dual exhaust and many extras; is it worth $17,500.00?
First of all, the hubs do not have to be locked for the transfer case to engage with ESOF. When you turn the **** to 4Hi the light should come on telling you that the tcase is engaged. Now, just because the light is on does not mean that the hubs are locked - they are engaged via vacuum.
1st - does the indicator light come on when you turn the ****?
2nd - How do you know that you have to lock the hubs manually? Did you get in mud or snow or on ice and the front did not spin?
3rd - You have AUTO or LOCK type hubs - there is no position for neutral (or unlock) on those hubs.
4th - Like Yeti said, if the hubs do not lock and you have vacuum to them, the seals may be shot.
The light does come on, but the 4 wheel drive is not on. I tried the truck in some sand; they didn't seem to work. It has Auto/Lock hubs and the 4 wheel drive works fine when the hubs are in the lock position. I can use the button correctly when the hubs are in the lock postion. Can you run the truck in the lock postion for a long period of time? (Use them when you need them type of thing).
Okay - your transfer case is locking, but not your hubs. Then check the vac to the hubs. Or did someone block-off the lines? Check for vaccum first, then if you have vac, check the lines.
Some have said that is alright to leave the hubs locked and some say it's not good. I would say just get out and lock them only when you need them. I can't see leaving the hubs locked all the time, makes no sense to me.
Since you know now that the transfer case is engaging, all you will need to do is get out and lock the hubs. Then when you switch back to 2WD, get out and put the hubs on AUTO.
There is a problem somewhere, but as long as it's not affecting the drivability and the wheel bearings are fine, then maybe you can do some troubleshooting without rushing.
Originally posted by mjwhip2 Do the wheels need to make a full rotation for the hubs to lock like the older ones?
Mike
No, but the axles need to turn just enough for the splines to align.
I know this first-hand. During our last snow I drove a little too far into the pasture and the front sunk. I switched the ESOF to 4Whi, eased off the clutch and it locked in almost instantly.