Hello everyone! I've searched and read every post I could find on removing the air pump and this weekend did just that but stopped at the crossover pipe on the back of the heads. This is hard to get to and wanted some advice before going any further. I can see the two bolts (one on each head) holding it on but what will it take to block the holes left behind in the head? I would like to take it down so far as to make it look like it never had it to begin with. Thanks for any advice...

Oh yea it's the truck in sig.

 

Also, what have any of you done with the EGR if anything? What's best? It sure is ugly right there...

 

On my 90 351, the ports in the back of the head are threaded, so I cut a couple of 3/4 bolts short and used a lock washer. Worked great.

 

thanks, egor. I'll take it off this weekend and see if mine are threaded.

 

just in case anyone else read this and is going to try it... mine were 5/8" thread?, not 3/4". So have a selection of bolts before starting. Also have a few beers and allot of patience. The passenger side is a bear to get to but I got it. It took me 5 minutes to do the driver's side and better than an hour on the other but all that crap is out of there now. Looks better and I feel better. Anyway...Oh yea, be carefull with those crappy, color coded, brittle air lines...

 

lilboysdrivebowties,

Please use the edit button to add something to posts instead of making another one. You have up to one hour to edit a post. Thanks!

 

When I bought my truck used, it didn't come with an air pump. The bracket and hoses for it was dangling there, but the pump itself was missing.

So, for a baseline test, I ran the truck through an idle emissions test, took my readings, then removed all the vacuum lines to the emissions equipment, pluged the vacuum port on the intake, and repeated the idle test.

I got exactly the same reading. Three times before, three times after. Either the air pump is necessary to change readings (which I don't have) or the emissions system is just not working at all. I didn't hear any clicking of solenoids or anything.

So, I removed it all. Plugged the exhaust manifolds with a 3/4" bolt and a lock washer as was suggested by someone else, same for all the ports everywhere else.

The last thing that remains is the EGR valve, but its only hanging off the intake, the bottom is not attached to anything. Both the exhaust manifold and the bottom of the EGR valve is plugged with large bolts.

Retested emissions, same readings. Guess the EGR didn't work either

The only reason I have the EGR valve still attached to the intake is I can't be bothered making an oval plate to cover it. I'm swapping out the 351W soon anyway, so doing work on it thats not critical is a waste of my time.

For what its worth, I get absolutely no codes from the ECM. The wire to the EGR is still attached however. If I remove that wire, I get codes. Seems the ECM doesn't care about the charcoal canister and other valves that were part of the system. Just the EGR.

Which is odd to me because when the EGR opens (which mine never does), the o2 sensor should be able to notice the change.

Weird.

 

Mustang gt 221, I wrote this last week. Where is the edit button?

 

nevermind I see it now...

What does the computer exactly want to know that the EGR is working and how could you trick it into thinking it's still there? I don't understand why you don't get codes???