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i pulled my plugs last night and found something interesting.they range in color from white,brown,orange,to black.i cleaned them and put them back in.but whats going on?why so many different colors?it`s had a pretty bad miss that i`m trying to run down.i just replaced my carb because i had gas in my oil.i checked the firing order,now i need to check the points.i`ve never done this before so any help you could give would be greatly appreciated.
Gas in the oil is often caused by a diaphram leak in the fuel pump.
Y blocks run the plug wires down behind the block for the drivers side bank. Bad news as they soak up the oil and the heat kills them. I run mine up on aftermarket Chebby looms modified to work.
You may be fighting multiple problems, take it one step at a time.
BTW, Champion plugs are garbage these days, I switched to NGK AP5FS. The 292 fired even in 25 below weather this winter.
It is easier to buy a rebuilt pump from Macs, NAPA, etc. Not worth the time and effort to do it yourself.
I use platinum plugs in modern drivers but havent tried them in oldies. With electronic ignitions and quality wires I havent bothered to take it to the next level. Maybe there are not any choices available for these old part #.
Gas in the oil is common with a carb that can't hold the bowl full. If you take the small cap plug out of the front of your carb and the bowl is void of fuel, then, over night, it drained out past the float valve and went into the cylinders. Everytime you start the engine you have to crank for a while to pump new gas into the carb. Thus your oil is gradually degraded. My two barrel did this what a while until I rebuilt it. Now it holds the gas ready for the next start. Good luck, John
Yo 286-
Did you re-route any of the plug wires? I'm not clear where chebbie looms might be placed to keep that heat off the wires. Most of us fight that rubber block loom at the back of the block then pray for good dangle all the way to 1 and 5.
I used the long chrome plated looms that you can get at the car shows or in a box store.
They are made for a 1/4" bolt but there is enough material to drill out.
Coming from the dizzy you can mount a 4 wire set on the firewall and then a 4 and 2 wire sets off the valve cover studs; bend as needed. Wire tie and dress the wires as needed to clear linkage and exhaust.
The passenger side is a lot simpler altho I still used the cover mounted ones for an even appearance.
If you are using stock or rams manifolds it may be as easy to use dual sided exhaust bolts/studs.
With stamped steel covers you can even trim and braze/silver solder the looms to the covers or instal little metal tangs that the small OEM plastic type wire spacers slip over. The latter could look factory if done carefully.
Hit the junkyards for ideas.
I made a set of brackets that mount to the stock locations and used Made For You Products horizontal wire looms to organize the wires. Two of them mount to the side of the block where it would mount if it was in a car. A couple of them (the two in the back) are difficult to tighten up because of there location but it is still a lot easier than the stock dividers. It took me about 1 hour to get the stock dividers installed with the engine on the engine stand. I can do these in about 15 minutes, in the chassis, with minimal cussing.
Hmm.
If I read right, senor Menten routes over the exhaust manifolds until he single wire drops to the plug. This would mean lacing it thru the exhaust manifold? On my rams horn's this might get awful close to that heat, Im guessing 1/2 to 3/4" away under ideal circumstances. Too hot there?
Senor McCreaney seems to loop back and below the manifold? But I agree those stock rubber block "looms" give lots of cussin' even after bathing wire and block in WD40.
I have the rams horn manifolds on mine too. The wires are about 3/4" from the pipe, which is more than enough clearance. They do go under the manifolds. I also have a custom wire set so that every wire fits perfectly. None are swinging in the breeze.
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