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I'll try not to drag this out but want to give enough info to help solve the problem.
2003 F350 7.3 CC 4X4,185,000 miles, Edge J/S, not cat or muff, 4" exhaust, trany shift valves <O</O <O</O This winter truck become hard to start and smoke at start up and lose of power, boost, and had a rough idle, fuel mileage down from 16 to 12 mpg<O</O <O</O I replaced glow plugs and glow plug relay, CPS, fuel filter, serviced oil, checked oil level in HPOP, had codes sanded and found no codes <O</O <O</O <O</O Put the truck back on the road and truck seamed to run better until cool damp morning <O</O <O</O Said the heck with it and took it to the dealer and had them run their diagnostic scan. Scan showed no codes but they seen what i was reporting. The dealer did say they pulled an injector and found some carbon (even though I always run DieseKleen) and may need to do an injector clean. At this point I'll try anything. I did their injection clean process and they advised I switch to lighter weight oil like 10W30.<O</O <O</O Took the truck back on a 5 hour trip and the truck seams to run better. Better response, more boost, mileage back to 15 16. I did notice while passing after the trany kick-down during the middle of my pass it would feel like another shift <O</O <O</O Just has a few cool mornings and at start up truck runs like crap. Truck still has a rough idle, trany shift seam to happen at higher RPM's. Problem seams to be related to cool weather. Even when warmed up and on warm days the truck has a rough idle.
<O$800.00 bones later and still not right.</O
<O</O
The other morning it was 40* and damp out. I don't have the smoke problem since the repairs but still runs like crap until warmed up. Even after it's warmed up it has a rough idle
The tranny issue, although I am not in it, sounds normal until it warms up, but it still should shift a little hard even when warm, because of the edge.
I am not expert ( wish I was ) but I would be leaning towards something going on under the valve cover.. Do you know anyone with autoenginuity?
I'm with this right here.
It really doesn't matter what tuner or chip you have on the truck, if there is a driveablility complaint the first thing you need to do is to remove the chip or program it back to stock.
Then fix the problem if it still exists before you put it back on again.
Said the heck with it and took it to the dealer and had them run their diagnostic scan. Scan showed no codes but they seen what i was reporting. The dealer did say they pulled an injector and found some carbon (even though I always run DieseKleen) and may need to do an injector clean. At this point I'll try anything. I did their injection clean process and they advised I switch to lighter weight oil like 10W30.
You didn't actuall put 10w30 in, did you? 40* is way too warm for that weight of oil.
An injector cleaning is mechanic's code for "We don't know what's wrong, but we'd like to have some of your money anyway".
I had an early 99 f250 psd 265k and same problem, it had very little white/gray smoke at start up, idled like garbage, very weak power untill it got moving down the road, needed to replaced my #8 injector it would only supply fuel after it was warmed up and had some drive time on it. Dont know if it was clogged, faulty or what, but I took the truck to a shop and told them to let it sit for a day and crank it then try to diagnos it, Sure enough it worked. They just told me i had a dead cylinder, they " replaced the injector and all was good again. Dont know if that is you issue but figured id throw it out there.
Was was thinking the same thinh about the injector cleaning but at this point I thought I'd try it.
I told them I was not going to run 10W30 and would stay with the oil I was running.
I can turn the Edge off to stock setting is that the same as unhooking it?
I let them have my truck for 3 days so they could have it for cold morning start ups. Still couldn't find anything other than "looks like injectors need cleand" BS
What's the best way to test this #8 injector? I'll give it a try.
It says IPR valve stuck but it may be a sticky IPR valve. Also check to make sure the nut at the back of IPR is tight. Did he clear the code and it came back?
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