Rear Axle Flip??
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Rear Axle Flip??
A couple of things:
First, has anyone bought the axle flip kit for their '57 -'60 and installed it? What does it entail and include? Also do you have a pic of it?
Secondly, why is it again that we can't just stick the axle up there!?! Honestly, my truck is never going to be hauling anything heavy, and not at all once it's painted. If the axle were moved up top, you could cut the bump stop back and have 2 1/4" of clearance. With 7 leaves on each side, good shocks, and typical driving habits, I don't see that it would be an issue with bottoming out........
So....
First, has anyone bought the axle flip kit for their '57 -'60 and installed it? What does it entail and include? Also do you have a pic of it?
Secondly, why is it again that we can't just stick the axle up there!?! Honestly, my truck is never going to be hauling anything heavy, and not at all once it's painted. If the axle were moved up top, you could cut the bump stop back and have 2 1/4" of clearance. With 7 leaves on each side, good shocks, and typical driving habits, I don't see that it would be an issue with bottoming out........
So....
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,243
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From: Michigan
Hi
If you set the axle on top of the springs you will need to cut the leaves mounting bracket off the top of the axle tube and weld one on the bottom of the axle tube and them you may need to install a shim to set the pinion angle.
Perhaps you will decide to remove some of the leaves ( 7 seems like a lot for a street rodded truck). Not only do you have to consider the rear susp has vertical travel (jounce) but it also has roll (even with leaf springs) which may put you closer to the frame (stab bar will help the roll).
When you cut the jounce bumper too small it will be so stiff it will feel like you are hitting the frame.
So with all that said the smart thing to do is install a "C" section then plate the frame in that area to make it think it is a box.
You will want to cut the frame with gentle curves not sharp edges (it will begin to crack at the sharp point).
Like Vern said 3 inches travel seems to work just fine.
Chuck
If you set the axle on top of the springs you will need to cut the leaves mounting bracket off the top of the axle tube and weld one on the bottom of the axle tube and them you may need to install a shim to set the pinion angle.
Perhaps you will decide to remove some of the leaves ( 7 seems like a lot for a street rodded truck). Not only do you have to consider the rear susp has vertical travel (jounce) but it also has roll (even with leaf springs) which may put you closer to the frame (stab bar will help the roll).
When you cut the jounce bumper too small it will be so stiff it will feel like you are hitting the frame.
So with all that said the smart thing to do is install a "C" section then plate the frame in that area to make it think it is a box.
You will want to cut the frame with gentle curves not sharp edges (it will begin to crack at the sharp point).
Like Vern said 3 inches travel seems to work just fine.
Chuck
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 785
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Okay. By "C" do you mean a simple c-notch in the frame, then box the area that you cut out? Or do you mean rebuilding the rise in the frame over the axle? Because if you do that, you're going to be fabbing up new wheels wells, and everything.
I was afraid that by simply cutting the frame itself it would weaken its rigidity in that are.
1. How high up should you cut to allow for travel and a new mounting location for the bump stop?
2. How wide should the cut be?
3. How far should you go in each direction boxing the frame to keep the strength?
I was afraid that by simply cutting the frame itself it would weaken its rigidity in that are.
1. How high up should you cut to allow for travel and a new mounting location for the bump stop?
2. How wide should the cut be?
3. How far should you go in each direction boxing the frame to keep the strength?
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Michigan
Hi
Ok I can only answer by telling you what I have on my truck. First of all it is a mid fifty flip kit.
If you look at the side of the frame from the top edge to the cut is 2 1/2, the cut is approx 3 1/2 wide at the top and tapers down to about 7 1/2 at the bottom.
There is a horizonal piece shaped like the cut welded to both the frame and the new plating.
Again in the side view the plating is approx 12 inches long from the c/l of axle to end of plate going towards the front of truck, the other end stops at the shock mounting c'mem.
Now if the truth were known I bet when I install my jounce bumper I will have less then the 3 inches that everbody wants.
I have installed a rear sway bar, also my axle is not flipped. The spring mounts have been moved up one inch on the frame and I have Posie reversed eye spring pack. One other thing the shock mounts have been moved outboard 2 inches per side.
Thats another thing you will need to change the rear shocks and possibly the lower mounts.
Chuck
Ok I can only answer by telling you what I have on my truck. First of all it is a mid fifty flip kit.
If you look at the side of the frame from the top edge to the cut is 2 1/2, the cut is approx 3 1/2 wide at the top and tapers down to about 7 1/2 at the bottom.
There is a horizonal piece shaped like the cut welded to both the frame and the new plating.
Again in the side view the plating is approx 12 inches long from the c/l of axle to end of plate going towards the front of truck, the other end stops at the shock mounting c'mem.
Now if the truth were known I bet when I install my jounce bumper I will have less then the 3 inches that everbody wants.
I have installed a rear sway bar, also my axle is not flipped. The spring mounts have been moved up one inch on the frame and I have Posie reversed eye spring pack. One other thing the shock mounts have been moved outboard 2 inches per side.
Thats another thing you will need to change the rear shocks and possibly the lower mounts.
Chuck
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Hey Chuck -
Koolness!
That's the info I was looking for. I am looking at doing the cut and rear axle flip. If the flip causes probs, at least I've got the frame cut out and can go to a lowered spring instead.
I've got all the suspension off my truck, steering too. This is my daily driver, but I found that:
Rear - pinion seal and axle seals are leaking, brake on right rear is locking up with a healthy dose of gear oil
Front - right kingpin is siezing, both brake line hoses were split, both leaf springs were cracked in two, adn the steering box has about 170deg turn of play in it!
How did I survive all these months??!?! :-staun
So I figured I may as well do a little
surgery and get her down too!
"Step up or step aside"
Koolness!
That's the info I was looking for. I am looking at doing the cut and rear axle flip. If the flip causes probs, at least I've got the frame cut out and can go to a lowered spring instead.I've got all the suspension off my truck, steering too. This is my daily driver, but I found that:
Rear - pinion seal and axle seals are leaking, brake on right rear is locking up with a healthy dose of gear oil
Front - right kingpin is siezing, both brake line hoses were split, both leaf springs were cracked in two, adn the steering box has about 170deg turn of play in it!
How did I survive all these months??!?! :-staun
So I figured I may as well do a little
surgery and get her down too!
"Step up or step aside"
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