All-Metal Bondo?
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From: Hesperia CA
All-Metal Bondo?
I had a salesman at the paint store today touting the qualities of something called All-Metal instead of the regular Bondo. It's an aluminized substance with a liquid hardener that pretty much works like Bondo but is supposedly a lot stronger.
The reason he brought it up is because I'm thinking I'd like to smooth over some of the body seams on my 65 F250 and apparently regular Bondo ain't up to the job. He took me out back and showed me a truck with cracked bondo seams, but I'm wondering if he really knows what he's talking about because it was his truck!
Then again, maybe that's how he learned. Who knows?
If it means problems down the road I'll just caulk the seams and leave 'em, but, if I can make them go away and stay gone, it'd make that paint job look that much cleaner.
All opinions appreciated. Thanx.
The reason he brought it up is because I'm thinking I'd like to smooth over some of the body seams on my 65 F250 and apparently regular Bondo ain't up to the job. He took me out back and showed me a truck with cracked bondo seams, but I'm wondering if he really knows what he's talking about because it was his truck!
Then again, maybe that's how he learned. Who knows?
If it means problems down the road I'll just caulk the seams and leave 'em, but, if I can make them go away and stay gone, it'd make that paint job look that much cleaner.
All opinions appreciated. Thanx.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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I use all-metal alot in my restorations great stuff . Had a friend do a custom van chopped and all in the early 80's used all-metal on all seams and welds still looks good ! The stuff is a little harder to work with than bondo but has alot better resistance to moisture Hope this is some help.
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From: Hesperia CA
One of the failing seams the sales guy showed me was on a rear bed corner and had what looked like a string of bubbles under the paint that hadn't broken thru yet. Makes ya wonder if moisture getting thru the seam and attcking from the rear was the cause.
Most of 'em looked like stress cracks tho. Just a thin line.
Another thought I had was very carefully welding up and grinding the seam before filler. That scares me tho.
Most of 'em looked like stress cracks tho. Just a thin line.
Another thought I had was very carefully welding up and grinding the seam before filler. That scares me tho.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Willamette Valley Oregon
Originally posted by pntrbl
One of the failing seams the sales guy showed me was on a rear bed corner and had what looked like a string of bubbles under the paint that hadn't broken thru yet. Makes ya wonder if moisture getting thru the seam and attcking from the rear was the cause.
Most of 'em looked like stress cracks tho. Just a thin line.
Another thought I had was very carefully welding up and grinding the seam before filler. That scares me tho.
One of the failing seams the sales guy showed me was on a rear bed corner and had what looked like a string of bubbles under the paint that hadn't broken thru yet. Makes ya wonder if moisture getting thru the seam and attcking from the rear was the cause.
Most of 'em looked like stress cracks tho. Just a thin line.
Another thought I had was very carefully welding up and grinding the seam before filler. That scares me tho.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Hesperia CA
It took me a coupla days to work up the necessary courage and I waffled back and forth on it right up until the end, but I've started welding up the body seams and it's going just fine. For contrast I just recently welded up my 1st flush patches and they wanted to warp into the next time zone! Seams seem to be an entirely different animal tho. Much more stable.
Gonna try All-Metal over the top.
Thanx for all the responses.
Gonna try All-Metal over the top.
Thanx for all the responses.
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